Kangchenjunga | 2000 SW Face

A S Korea expedition to Kangchenjunga in 2000 via SW Face, led by Um Hong-Gil. Summit reached on 19th May 2000. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3586
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG00107
Peak ID KANG
Year 2000
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality S Korea
Leaders Um Hong-Gil
Sponsor 2000 Korean Kangchenjunga Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 55th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2000-04-03
Summit Date 2000-05-19
Summit Time 0620
Summit Days 46
Total Days 50
Termination Date 2000-05-23
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8586
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 3000
Total Members 8
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 8
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/04,5400m),C1(11/04,6100m),C2(19/04,6400m),C3(21/04,7100m),C4(17/05,7600m),C5(18/05,8500m),Smt(19/05)
Route Notes BC at normal site C1 at big snowfield C2 at snow face C3 above many seracs on small snow plateau C4 at Great Shelf C5 on summit bid (without oxygen). 22 April route making up from C3 among many seracs when Ang Dawa Tamang was hit by fist-size piece of ice hit him at 7300m on cheek and fell 5-7m down. Members and 5 Sherpas carried him to C3, 23rd he's "little Ok" but carried down on mattress when at 10:00 am at 6900m he died. Had not been wearing helmet (none of team wore helmets). Took back to BC 28 April and 1 May body carried to KTM by helicopter. All stayed in BC 2 weeks because depression. No motivation, not able to decide to go up, but decided to make one try to go to top. 15 May returned to C1, 16th to C3, 17th to C4 and stayed there. 18th am 2:30 up from C4 only 2 Koreans and 2 Indians together. Indians at 8200m turned back because deep snow made them too tired while Um and Park went on up; at 8500m at 8:00 pm made biv (unprepared and no more food and water) on very steep ice, rock-snow mixed with little space to biv. Spent night sitting on small shelf clipped into old rope: cold but gentle wind and only light snowfall. 19 May 4:50 am started up again and 6:20 am on top with sunshine and no wind. On summit 1 hour for ceremony to remember 2 Korean members who died Um's expedition in '99 (had photos and Korean flag which left in plastic at top). Indians on top on 21 May found photos and flag and brought flag down (they kept flag). Um and Park returned C3 1:00 pm and slept there. 20 May to BC at 12:30 pm. Um intends to go to K2 this summer despite his fatigue on return to KTM.
Accidents Nepal cook very sick from altitude; 1 Sherpa died because of brain damage from falling ice
Achievement -
Agency Windhorse Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454179
Year 2000
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) sw face

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ha-Young Cheong M 1966 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea - Details Other expeditions
Jae-Myung Cho M 1954 S Korea Climber La Canada, California Sales for clothing factory Details Other expeditions
In-Gyung Go M 1944 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Chairman of foreign-languages academy Details Other expeditions
Jong-Hwan Kim M 1957 S Korea Climber Gwangmyeong, Gyeonggi, S Korea Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Sae-Jun Kim M 1957 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Alpine & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Mu-Taek Park M 1969 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Alpine & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Sang-Il Shim M 1967 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Hong-Gil Um M 1960 S Korea Leader Uijeongbu, Gyeonggi, S Korea Advertising manager of foreign-language academy Details Other expeditions
Ang Dawa (Dawa) Tamang M 1972 Nepal Sirdar Lapcha, Gorakhani, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANG00107 HIGH - - - 218:74-75 (Jan 2001) -