Kangchenjunga Central | 1978 SW side
A Spain expedition to Kangchenjunga Central in 1978 via SW side, led by Josep Piera Queralt. Summit reached on 18th May 1978. 5 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2855 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | KANC78101 |
| Peak ID | KANC |
| Year | 1978 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SW side |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Spain |
| Leaders | Josep Piera Queralt |
| Sponsor | - |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1978-04-17 |
| Summit Date | 1978-05-18 |
| Summit Time | 1620 |
| Summit Days | 31 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 14 |
| Termination Notes | Mistakenly stopped on subsidiary summit of Kangchenjunga Central Summit |
| High Point (m) | 8410 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 0 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 4 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 3 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Attempted Yalung Kang (YALU-781-01) |
| Campsites | BC(17/04,5170m),C1(23/04,6050m),C2(27/04,6600m),C3(05/05,7200m),C4(16/05,7600m),xxx(18/05,8410m) |
| Route Notes | Subsidiary peak Kangchenjunga Central summited on May 18 by Narcis Serrat Comerma and Furi Sherpa. SR Sharma, Tourism - 2 Aug 78 Leader of Yalung Kang expedition barred from climbing in Nepal for 5 years from June 1978 as penalty for his expedition's climbing on Kangchenjunga Central Peak, which is not on permitted list and for which no permission given. After expedition left Nepal, they wrote from New Delhi to say they had been on Kangchenjunga Central Peak. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 20 June 78 Spanish Yalung Kang leader said his team climbed Yalung Kang. LO's of both Yalung Kang and Kangchenjunga say climbed Yalung Kang. Sharma is meeting Sherpa summiters tomorrow to question him. So far only Poles say Spaniards climbed Kangchenjunga Central summit. Dr. Browski, Polish Kangchenjunga Expedition - 16 June 78 Spaniards did not attempt to climb Yalung Kang, maybe because of snow conditions. Instead went up Central Summit of Kangchenjunga. Used Polish route to C3, one or 2 days behind Poles, using Polish fixed ropes, but when had climbed to their highest point, found they were not on the highest point of Central summit. Leader had pneumonia. No accidents or serious frostbite. SR Sharma, Tourism - 21 May 78 Scaled 18 May 16:20 hours by 1) Narchis Serrat Comerma 2) Furi Sherpa, 20, Junbesi C4 16 May (altitude ?) returning to KTM; leave BC 22 May. Prunes & Marti - 7 March 77 Expect others by truck from Terrasse. Were in Belgrade 24 Feb and after this no news: arrive Rorland 8-10 March and go direct to Biratnagar and Dharan at Dharan 12 March earliest. 5 Sherpas above BC and sirdar Ang Tsering. Oxygen for climbing above 7500m in C4 and last day Will follow 1975 spring German route on South Face to main peak. 3 weeks Dharan to BC about 3 weeks so early April. BC 5500m like Germans (with acclimatizations and with dump 4800m). C4 just under couloir at about 7800m = highest camp probably Summit about 15-20 May. 2 first camps - 10 days; 10 days about C2 -> C3; easy C3 -> C4, then wait for good weather. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | True |
| Primary Member | True |
| Primary Reference | True |
| Primary ID | YALU78101 |
| Checksum | 2446120 |
| Year | 1978 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | sw side |
Members
5 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Josep Piera Queralt | M | 1946 | Spain | Leader | Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Lluis Ambros de Gracia | M | 1949 | Spain | Climber | Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Narcis Serrat Comerma | M | 1954 | Spain | Climber | Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain | Student of psychology | Details Other expeditions |
| Furi Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Junbesi, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Francisco Martinez Troya | M | 1949 | Spain | Climber | Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain | Live model | Details Other expeditions |
References
0 recorded references.