Kangbachen | 1974 NW Face

A Yugoslavia expedition to Kangbachen in 1974 via NW Face, led by Tone Skarja. Summit reached on 29th September 1974. 19 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2314
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANB74301
Peak ID KANB
Year 1974
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Yugoslavia
Leaders Tone Skarja
Sponsor Expedition to Kangbachen from Slovene Alpine Club, Ljubljana
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd-4th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1974-09-08
Summit Date 1974-09-29
Summit Time 1730
Summit Days 21
Total Days 34
Termination Date 1974-10-12
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7902
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 17
Summit Members 9
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Ramtang Chang (RAMC-743-01), Mojca (MOJC-743-01) and an unnamed peak of 6500m west of Ramtang Chang (all unauthorized)
Campsites BC(08/09,5250m),C1(09/09,5750m),C2(12/09,6250m),C3(14/09,6600m),C4(22/09,7200m),C5(28/09,7450m),Smt(29/09,05-06/10)
Route Notes Skarja & Soklic - 1 Nov 74 Ramtang Chang (Wedge Peak) climbed 6750m; unnamed peak climbed 6500m. 13 arrive today, rest tomorrow; no accidents, no illness, no frostbite. Powder avalanching swept Skarja, Riedl and Gradisar 100m down, but they on surface and not injured 21 Sept above C2 (6300m). NW Face route used while returning from summit 6 Oct, one Sherpa Nima not far below C5 slipped from 7500m about 100m, but luckily he stopped himself with his axe. Same route as 1965 expedition; top portion hard work especially for 1st group because deep snow which later became compacted. 5 Oct Gradisar, Pollack and Smolej climbed Ramtang Chang from expedition's C1; made one camp themselves; climbed Ramtang Chang's west side. C6 never made; had planned it but not necessary. 1st summit team had poor weather reached summit at sunset and C5 in dark with torches. 2nd team had good weather and reached top much earlier. MP Khanal - 7 Oct 74 Frank Jeromen Marjan Manfreda Janez Dovzan Summit 5th Oct 10 am Weather very fine; all members safe. Jerin - 5 Oct 74 If want to put 10 members on top, need another camp at 7400-7500m. Looking for route from col west of Kangbachen to Yalung Kang for future expedition; and for this, also need this other camp. Extremely good relations with Sherpas up to time he left expedition 15 Sept. Sirdar Ngati from Solu very good man. MP Khanal - 2 Oct 74 Success 3 members 29 Sept, 17:30 hours: Stanislav Belak Roman Robas Peter Scetinin All members well and weather fine. MP Khanal - 1 Oct 74 C5 at 7250m 28 Sept All members well and weather fine. MP Khanal, MFA - 17 Sept 74 C3 at 6200m 4:00 pm 14 Sept All members and Sherpas and weather Ok. Zerin and Sherpa due to leave BC 15 Sept. MP Khanal, MFA - 15 Sept 74 (message Friday from BC) C2 at 5800m 12 Sept by 5 members Weather fine and all members health Ok. Shrestha, MFA - 11 Sept 74 BC 8 Sept 4900m C1 9 Sept 5400m All members well Jerin - 19 Aug 74 Caravan left Biratnagar on 17th with all other members. Sherpas to Dankhuta to collect porters. Leader to Biratnagar and Dharan yesterday and Jerin leaves today. All leave Dharan 20th or 21st. Arrive BC about 8 Sept at 17,000 ft 4900m on east side of Ramtang Glacier. C1 established about same time as BC consolidated. Summit after 20th Oct. Approach March from Tone Skarja The expeditions left Dharan on Aug 20th, climbed the same day over Sanguri Col. We have on our disposal 266 local porters under the leadership of five naikes. The total weight of all loads was about 7500 kgs. In the following days we climbed the Mahabharta Lekh by the route Dhankuta (1200m), Hile (1900m), Sinduwa (2100m), Thute (2300m), Cauki (2600m), and Gupha Pokhari (2800m) and descended by the track through Churza to Doban which is situated in the Tamur valley just under and opposite to Taplejung. The daily rate for local porters from Dharan to Doban was 15 Rs NC. From Doban we followed the usual Tamur valley track. At Nitlung village one day was lost in waiting (in vain) for the new porters from Doban. In crossing a small torrent Andhuva Khola one of the members was saved within a hair's breadth not to be washed away and to the Tamur Kosi. Climb of Kangbachen Peak On Sept 9th in spite of the thick fog and slight snowfall we pitched the first tents of the camp one at an altitude of 5750m and at the same time stored some 250 kg of equipment and food there. Because of a prolonged snowfall and fog in the next two days it was not possible to explore the safest route to the snowy plateau, where the C2 should be established.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2444789
Year 1974
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw face

Members

19 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Anton (Tone) Skarja M 1937 Yugoslavia Leader Menges, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Technician, electrical engineering Details Other expeditions
Joze Andlovic M 1923 Yugoslavia Exp Doctor Sempeter pri Gorici, Yugoslavia Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Zvonimir (Zvone) Andrejcic M 1950 Yugoslavia Climber Lesce, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Turner, mechanic Details Other expeditions
Stanislav (Stane) Belak-Srauf M 1940 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Technician-constructor Details Other expeditions
Danilo Cedilnik M 1947 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Professor of art Details Other expeditions
Janez Dovzan M 1945 Yugoslavia Climber Mojstrana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Janez Gradisar M 1944 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Student of electrical engineering Details Other expeditions
Zoran Jerin M 1925 Yugoslavia Exp Reporter Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Franc Jeromen M 1940 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Engineer constructor Details Other expeditions
Marjan Manfreda M 1950 Yugoslavia Climber Bohinjska, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Mechanic, electrical engineering Details Other expeditions
Bojan Pollak M 1943 Yugoslavia Climber Kamnik, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Naval constructor-engineer Details Other expeditions
Radovan (Rado) Riedl M 1938 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Television reporter Details Other expeditions
Roman Robas M 1942 Yugoslavia Climber Medvode, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Peter Scetinin M 1935 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Metallurgical engineer Details Other expeditions
Michael Smolej M 1948 Yugoslavia Climber Mojstrana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Worker in steel works Details Other expeditions
Peter Soklic M 1944 Yugoslavia Exp Doctor Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Physician: x-ray specialist Details Other expeditions
Anton (Tone) Trobevsek M 1947 Yugoslavia Climber Stahovica, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Technician, electrical engineering Details Other expeditions
Nima Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Ngati Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANB74301 AAJ Skarja, Anton - - 49:189-193 (1975) -
KANB74301 - Andlovic, Joze, et al Kangbacen Mladinska Knjiga, Ljubljana, Yugoslavia - A217
KANB74301 MM - - - 41:11 (Jan 1975) -
KANB74301 MM Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman Kangchenjunga - 68:34-40 (Jul 1979) -
KANB74301 - Andlovic, Joze Na Vrh Svijeta Globus, Zagreb - K367
KANB74301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197518903/Asia-Nepal-Kangbachen-Second-Ascent - - -