Kangbachen | 1974 NW Face
A Yugoslavia expedition to Kangbachen in 1974 via NW Face, led by Tone Skarja. Summit reached on 29th September 1974. 19 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2314 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | KANB74301 |
| Peak ID | KANB |
| Year | 1974 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | NW Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Yugoslavia |
| Leaders | Tone Skarja |
| Sponsor | Expedition to Kangbachen from Slovene Alpine Club, Ljubljana |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 2nd-4th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1974-09-08 |
| Summit Date | 1974-09-29 |
| Summit Time | 1730 |
| Summit Days | 21 |
| Total Days | 34 |
| Termination Date | 1974-10-12 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7902 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 17 |
| Summit Members | 9 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 1 |
| Summit Hired | 1 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Climbed Ramtang Chang (RAMC-743-01), Mojca (MOJC-743-01) and an unnamed peak of 6500m west of Ramtang Chang (all unauthorized) |
| Campsites | BC(08/09,5250m),C1(09/09,5750m),C2(12/09,6250m),C3(14/09,6600m),C4(22/09,7200m),C5(28/09,7450m),Smt(29/09,05-06/10) |
| Route Notes | Skarja & Soklic - 1 Nov 74 Ramtang Chang (Wedge Peak) climbed 6750m; unnamed peak climbed 6500m. 13 arrive today, rest tomorrow; no accidents, no illness, no frostbite. Powder avalanching swept Skarja, Riedl and Gradisar 100m down, but they on surface and not injured 21 Sept above C2 (6300m). NW Face route used while returning from summit 6 Oct, one Sherpa Nima not far below C5 slipped from 7500m about 100m, but luckily he stopped himself with his axe. Same route as 1965 expedition; top portion hard work especially for 1st group because deep snow which later became compacted. 5 Oct Gradisar, Pollack and Smolej climbed Ramtang Chang from expedition's C1; made one camp themselves; climbed Ramtang Chang's west side. C6 never made; had planned it but not necessary. 1st summit team had poor weather reached summit at sunset and C5 in dark with torches. 2nd team had good weather and reached top much earlier. MP Khanal - 7 Oct 74 Frank Jeromen Marjan Manfreda Janez Dovzan Summit 5th Oct 10 am Weather very fine; all members safe. Jerin - 5 Oct 74 If want to put 10 members on top, need another camp at 7400-7500m. Looking for route from col west of Kangbachen to Yalung Kang for future expedition; and for this, also need this other camp. Extremely good relations with Sherpas up to time he left expedition 15 Sept. Sirdar Ngati from Solu very good man. MP Khanal - 2 Oct 74 Success 3 members 29 Sept, 17:30 hours: Stanislav Belak Roman Robas Peter Scetinin All members well and weather fine. MP Khanal - 1 Oct 74 C5 at 7250m 28 Sept All members well and weather fine. MP Khanal, MFA - 17 Sept 74 C3 at 6200m 4:00 pm 14 Sept All members and Sherpas and weather Ok. Zerin and Sherpa due to leave BC 15 Sept. MP Khanal, MFA - 15 Sept 74 (message Friday from BC) C2 at 5800m 12 Sept by 5 members Weather fine and all members health Ok. Shrestha, MFA - 11 Sept 74 BC 8 Sept 4900m C1 9 Sept 5400m All members well Jerin - 19 Aug 74 Caravan left Biratnagar on 17th with all other members. Sherpas to Dankhuta to collect porters. Leader to Biratnagar and Dharan yesterday and Jerin leaves today. All leave Dharan 20th or 21st. Arrive BC about 8 Sept at 17,000 ft 4900m on east side of Ramtang Glacier. C1 established about same time as BC consolidated. Summit after 20th Oct. Approach March from Tone Skarja The expeditions left Dharan on Aug 20th, climbed the same day over Sanguri Col. We have on our disposal 266 local porters under the leadership of five naikes. The total weight of all loads was about 7500 kgs. In the following days we climbed the Mahabharta Lekh by the route Dhankuta (1200m), Hile (1900m), Sinduwa (2100m), Thute (2300m), Cauki (2600m), and Gupha Pokhari (2800m) and descended by the track through Churza to Doban which is situated in the Tamur valley just under and opposite to Taplejung. The daily rate for local porters from Dharan to Doban was 15 Rs NC. From Doban we followed the usual Tamur valley track. At Nitlung village one day was lost in waiting (in vain) for the new porters from Doban. In crossing a small torrent Andhuva Khola one of the members was saved within a hair's breadth not to be washed away and to the Tamur Kosi. Climb of Kangbachen Peak On Sept 9th in spite of the thick fog and slight snowfall we pitched the first tents of the camp one at an altitude of 5750m and at the same time stored some 250 kg of equipment and food there. Because of a prolonged snowfall and fog in the next two days it was not possible to explore the safest route to the snowy plateau, where the C2 should be established. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2444789 |
| Year | 1974 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | nw face |
Members
19 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Anton (Tone) Skarja | M | 1937 | Yugoslavia | Leader | Menges, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Technician, electrical engineering | Details Other expeditions |
| Joze Andlovic | M | 1923 | Yugoslavia | Exp Doctor | Sempeter pri Gorici, Yugoslavia | Surgeon | Details Other expeditions |
| Zvonimir (Zvone) Andrejcic | M | 1950 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Lesce, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Turner, mechanic | Details Other expeditions |
| Stanislav (Stane) Belak-Srauf | M | 1940 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Technician-constructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Danilo Cedilnik | M | 1947 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Professor of art | Details Other expeditions |
| Janez Dovzan | M | 1945 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Mojstrana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Civil engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Janez Gradisar | M | 1944 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Student of electrical engineering | Details Other expeditions |
| Zoran Jerin | M | 1925 | Yugoslavia | Exp Reporter | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Franc Jeromen | M | 1940 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Engineer constructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Marjan Manfreda | M | 1950 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Bohinjska, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Mechanic, electrical engineering | Details Other expeditions |
| Bojan Pollak | M | 1943 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Kamnik, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Naval constructor-engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Radovan (Rado) Riedl | M | 1938 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Television reporter | Details Other expeditions |
| Roman Robas | M | 1942 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Medvode, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Mechanical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Peter Scetinin | M | 1935 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Metallurgical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Michael Smolej | M | 1948 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Mojstrana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Worker in steel works | Details Other expeditions |
| Peter Soklic | M | 1944 | Yugoslavia | Exp Doctor | Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Physician: x-ray specialist | Details Other expeditions |
| Anton (Tone) Trobevsek | M | 1947 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Stahovica, Slovenia, Yugoslavia | Technician, electrical engineering | Details Other expeditions |
| Nima Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ngati Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Sirdar | Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
6 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| KANB74301 | AAJ | Skarja, Anton | - | - | 49:189-193 (1975) | - |
| KANB74301 | - | Andlovic, Joze, et al | Kangbacen | Mladinska Knjiga, Ljubljana, Yugoslavia | - | A217 |
| KANB74301 | MM | - | - | - | 41:11 (Jan 1975) | - |
| KANB74301 | MM | Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman | Kangchenjunga | - | 68:34-40 (Jul 1979) | - |
| KANB74301 | - | Andlovic, Joze | Na Vrh Svijeta | Globus, Zagreb | - | K367 |
| KANB74301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197518903/Asia-Nepal-Kangbachen-Second-Ascent | - | - | - |