Kangbachen | 1974 NW Face

A Poland expedition to Kangbachen in 1974 via NW Face, led by Piotr Mlotecki. Summit reached on 26th May 1974. 16 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2318
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANB74101
Peak ID KANB
Year 1974
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Piotr Mlotecki
Sponsor First Polish Himalaya Nepal Exped 1974 (Polski Club Gorski)
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Dharan->Taplejung->Ghunsa
Basecamp Date 1974-04-16
Summit Date 1974-05-26
Summit Time 1120
Summit Days 40
Total Days 45
Termination Date 1974-05-31
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7902
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 15
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16/04,4950m),C1(20/04,5400m),C2(02/05,5800m),C3A(05/05,6200m),C3B(14/05,6350m),C4(18/05,6700m),C5(23/05,7100m),C6(25/05,7450m),Smt(26/05)
Route Notes MP Khanal, MFA - 28 May 74 Climbed 26 May at 11:20 am by Branski, Rubinowski, Malatynski, Olech and Klaput. 6 were supposed to go to summit, but Olszewski could not go above C6 which established 25 May at 7450m. Driver and leader going up with axe and other necessary medicine for Olszewski who is sick at C6. Expect leave BC 31 May for Biratnagar. Hamal, MFA - 25 May 74 (message dated 24 May) Established C5 on 23 May at 7100m. Plan to establish C6 24 May and if weather favourable, make assault on summit 25 May. Branski - 4 Apr 74 8 members on 29th March left Biratnagar for Taplejung. 1 member by plane to Taplejung. Branski again to Biratnagar tomorrow. Branski - 21 March 74 4 Sherpas including sirdar Dorji Walung, plus 1 cook, 2 kitchen boys and 1 mailrunner. 3 in KTM hope leave about 26th to Biratnagar. Baggage should arrive today and 8 days to Biratnagar. No news of members coming up by car. Plan to fly to Taplejung if possible. Would save one week's trekking time, otherwise 15-16 days approach march to BC. Branski - 4 March 74 Leader and 2 arrive today. 2 on ship to Madras with baggage. All others leave Warsaw today and of these 2 to Madras by air and 8 by car and 1 by air to Biratnagar. Base camp on Ramtang Glacier about 4500m. 6 to 7 light camps depending on snow conditions. Same approach as Japanese and Yugoslavs via NW Face. Letter from W. Branksi - April 27, 1974 At BC on Ramtang Glacier 4950m Expedition Report 1 Our advanced group consisting of Kazimierz Olech, Andrzej Gardas, Marek Malatynski, Marek Rogalski. Andrzej Sobolewski and two Sherpas established the BC on Ramtang Glacier at altitude of 4950m on 16th April. Three members of that group: Olech, Gardas and Sobolewski established C1 at altitude 5400m on 20th April. The main group with all the expedition members carried by about 195 porters arrived to Base Camp on 24th April and started to develop base arrangements. In the meantime expedition members facilitates the track between BC and C1. Climbing conditions not favourable. Deep snow and every day snow fall unables fast advance of mountain action. Letter from W. Branski - May 17, 1974 Expedition Report 2 On the 2nd of May three expedition members: W. Branski, Mlotecki and M. Rogalski established C2 on the snow plateau above the Ramtang Glacier icefall at altitude of about 5880m. The same team on the 6th of May established C3 at altitude of about 6200m somewhere below the ridge dividing Ramtang and Jannu glaciers. After finding the way up by K. Olech and A. Sobolewski, a team consisting of: W. Branski, W. Klaput, M. Malatysnki and Z. Rubinowski on 14th of May reached the col deciding to shift here C3 which now is placed at altitude of about 6350m. Because of the very ba weather condition (almost every day snow fall, warm, avalanches), we were forced to cancel our C1 placed somewhere in the middle of the ice fall. Now, our supply to C2 and the way up follows the old Yugoslavian track on the left side of Ramtang Glacier. On the 16th of May the highest reached point by our expedition had altitude of 6500m. We could not continue climbing and were forced back by heavy winding. On the 17th of May two expedition members: A. Gardas and A. Sobolewski leave BC going back to country. W. Branski - 2 July 1974 Expedition Final Report About middle of May it became clear that we would not reach the top of Kangbachen while trying to establish higher camps 5 and 6 in normal way. It was decided to scale the summit in somehow alpine style climbing up with all the needed eqipment and food without coming back to lower camps for rest. The team is consisting 4 members: W. Branski, W. Klaput, M. Malatynski and Z. Rubinowski together with 3 Sherpas left BC on 19th of May. On 21st of May they reached C3 situated on the col. On the next day two other members acting up to now above the C3 joined the party and they established C4 an altitude 6800m. On 23 of May carrying very heavy loads (2 tents, climbing equipment and food for 5-6 days) the 6 members started to traverse steep slope. All Sherpas were send to lower camps for supply of oxygen up to the C4 in amount sufficient for only medical purposes. The party reached only 7100m and stayed at night in tents pitched in very uncomfortable platforms made by them by digging snow and ice. Next day they gained about 200m more continuing to traverse dangerous slope. Snow conditions were very bad. They sinked above knees. Bivouac was also very difficult. On 25 of May they reached altitude about 7500m climbing upwards steepy couloir. One of the members felt bad having symptoms of high altitude illness. On 26 of May team consisting 5 members and climbing without loads reached the top of Kangbachen at 11:20 am. Before reaching the top they found that both Kangbachen and Yalung Kang arise from common flat plateau. the summit of the former creates three tops, one lower rocky and two higher snowy. After visiting all of them and reporting by radio telephone to base they left a piece of paper with the date and names of members within a plastic bag put under a few stones. They took some pictures but weather was very bad, sky clouded and heavy wind. Liaison officer and one of the members staying actaully at BC could see 5 men at the top of Kangbachen with help of a lunnette. They started to walk down about 1 pm. Next day it occurred that J. Olszewski is in very bad condition, he lost conciousness and was not able to walk independently. The group contacted with C4 where leader and doctor stayed actually. They both as well as another member M. Rogalski and one Sherpa left the camp carrying oxygen and walking fast to meet descending party. The descending party was forced to leave tents because sliding of the sick friend was difficult and responsible task. At the end of day they met the rescue party. There was no other possibilities but only to dig snow caves. The whole next day they transported the sick fellow who yet was better and tried to walk few steps afterwards resting long. They reached finally C4 where already more members were collected to change the tired team. They could walk now fast reaching on the same day C3. On the next day they reached BC ecaping from steep slopes where avalanches started to fall down. Remaining members came to BC on the following day. On the 1st of June [BC] was liquidated and with some 70 porters we started our way down. We divided ourself in different parties leaving Nepal to Poland on various ways. But majority goes the Polish-made personal cars awaiting us at Raxaul.
Accidents No accidents except Olszewski high altitude effects, but recovering
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2444663
Year 1974
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) nw face

Members

16 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Piotr Mlotecki M 1925 Poland Leader Warsaw, Poland Technician Details Other expeditions
Kazimierz Olech M 1928 Poland Deputy Leader Warsaw, Poland Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Wojciech Branski M 1935 Poland Climber/Exp Secretary Warsaw, Poland Physicist and engineer Details Other expeditions
Andrej Gardas M - Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Biologist Details Other expeditions
Wieslaw Klaput M 1946 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Engineer Details Other expeditions
Marek Malatynski M 1947 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Engineer Details Other expeditions
Jozef Olszewski M 1939 Poland Climber Zakopane, Poland Technician Details Other expeditions
Maciej Piatkowski M - Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Engineer Details Other expeditions
Marek Rogalski M 1945 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Engineer Details Other expeditions
Zbigniew Rubinowski M - Poland Climber Kielce, Poland Geologist Details Other expeditions
Andrzej Sobolewski M 1931 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Engineer Details Other expeditions
Zbigniew Stasyszyn M 1936 Poland Climber Poznan, Poland Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Andrzej Strumillo M - Poland Member Warsaw, Poland Painter (artist) Details Other expeditions
Szymon Wdowiak M 1934 Poland Climber Milanowek, Poland Geologist & photographer Details Other expeditions
Andrzej Pietraszek M 1940 Poland Exp Doctor Warsaw, Poland Physician Details Other expeditions
Walung Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

11 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANB74101 AAJ Olech, Kazimierz W. - - 49:189 (1975) -
KANB74101 HJ Olech, K. The First Ascent of Kangbachen, 1974 - 33:58-62 (1973-74) -
KANB74101 AJ Olech, Kazimierz The First Ascent of Kangbachen - 80:29-36 (1975) -
KANB74101 - Mlotecki, Piotr Kangbachen Zdobyty Wydawnictwo 'Sport i Turystyka', Warswa - M440
KANB74101 - Malatynski, Marek W Cienu Kangczendzengi Iskry, Warsaw - M117
KANB74101 - Branski, Wojciech Do Himalajow Wiecznych Sniegow Skarbnicy Nasza Ksiegarnia, Warsaw - B541
KANB74101 MM - - - 37:10 (Jul 1974) -
KANB74101 MM Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman Kangchenjunga - 68:34-40 (Jul 1979) -
KANB74101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197518902/Asia-Nepal-Kangbachen - - -
KANB74101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/33/13/the-first-ascent-of-kangbachen-1974/ - - -
KANB74101 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1975_files/AJ%201975%2028-36%20Olech%20Kangbachen.pdf - - -