Kangbachen | 1965 NW Face

A Yugoslavia expedition to Kangbachen in 1965 via NW Face, led by Joze Govekar. Summit reached on 14th October 1965. 17 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2508
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANB65301
Peak ID KANB
Year 1965
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Yugoslavia
Leaders Joze Govekar
Sponsor Mountaineering Club Ljubljana
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Dharan->Ghunsa->Ramtong Glacier (BC)
Basecamp Date -
Summit Date 1965-10-14
Summit Time -
Summit Days 0
Total Days 0
Termination Date 1965-10-18
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7600m due to frostbite and cold conditions
High Point (m) 7600
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 12
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 8
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(4900m),C1(5400m),C2(5800m),C3(6300m),C4(6800m),C5(13/10,7050m),Biv(14/10,7600m),xxx
Route Notes Govekar - 25 Nov 65 12 Oct Sazonov and Dimitrov: 2nd time attempt on summit with Girme Dorje and Dakiya. 7 Oct Juvan, Humar, Girme Dorje and Walung Dorje Sherpa: 1st attempt from C4 reached 7535m minor summit 2 km along ridge southeast of main peak; minor peak very steep and high wind prevented reaching main peak. So 2nd attempt traversed below minor summit and from C5 reached ridge at point well northwest of main peak, but still too far from main peak point on ridge 7600m. Sazonov received frostbite one finger causing amputation 1st joint from tip. Bivouacked all night at 7600m - wind 60-70 km/hr and -17 degrees at night. Weather defeated them. 18th Oct evacuation base camp and 21st from Ghunsa to Dharan arriving Dharan 2nd Nov. Tried via West Face; very steep and impossible with so much snow, but less snow Ok; wants to try again. Next time 2 more good Sherpas (this time only 7 including cook and several were ailing). Dimitrov had temporary frostbite both toes and fingers. Oxygen equipment froze. Govekar returns to Biratnagar tomorrow and Yugoslavia soon via Calcutta. Sazanov is in Biratnagar; all others have gone to Yugoslavia. Govekar received extra funds today. Ramtang Glacier: base camp site at 4900m S. P. Rai = liaison officer Girme Dorje - 11 Nov 65 Metod Humar and Dr. Andrej Zupancic came to Kathmandu; rest in Dharan waiting for money to be sent then as arranged by 2 who came to Kathmandu and went on to NDH. 2nd attempts made on Kangbachen: 1st reached main peak on same ridge above C4, turned back because 4 climbers didn't realize loads had been dumped for a C5. 5 days later 2nd attempt made from a C5 but got no further than col below peak where 2 members bivouacked 1 night (and got slight frostbite) while 2 Sherpas went down to C5. Much snow, cloud and strong wind; avalanche danger; leader decided to retreat. No other mountain climbed. Leader got only to C3. SP Rai (LO) - Oct 17 7460m, 13th Oct. 2 members and 3 Sherpas tried again, but because of bad weather and exhaustion got only to 7460m. The 2 members have frostbitten fingers. Zupanac and Govekar - 8 Aug 65 Zupanac and Govekar leave KTM about Aug 5th for Biratnagar where meet others; from there expedition to Dharan. Leave Dharan 12-14th August, 20 days march to base via Ghunsa (checkpost). Recon party ahead to decide which faster: Ramtang or Kangchenjunga glacier for approach. Base at about 5000m on one of these glaciers. 8 Sherpas; Pasang Phutar, sirdar ex-Darjeeling 3 weeks for acclimatization and would like to climb in Oct if possible when weather apparently best. Clear base by Nov 15 at least. Don't know how many will return to Kathmandu, but some at least will. Emergency communication with Kathmandu through clid radio at checkpost of Ghunsa; mail in and out via Gogbani chd. Dr. Bujevic their contact in Kathmandu. Letter from J Roberts - 21 Dec 65 Despite their apparently good records in Europe, Girme had poor opinion of their abilities in the Himalaya. When I asked him to compare them with Lute [Jerstad], Barry [Bishop], well he just laughed out right. Sherpas led all the way on the 2nd attempt. After climb of point 7535m Juvan and Humar got the hell out of it, down to the nearest village, saying they had "done their duty." At base there was much flexing of muscle and talk of the summit. On the mountain keeness evaporated.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2441508
Year 1965
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) nw face

Members

17 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ciril Debeljak M - Yugoslavia Climber Celje, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Typesetter Details Other expeditions
Andrej O. Zupancic M - Yugoslavia Climber - Professor of Patrphysiology, University of Ljubljana Details Other expeditions
Metod Humar M - Yugoslavia Climber Kamnik, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Welder Details Other expeditions
Paule Dimitrov M - Yugoslavia Climber Jesenice, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Worker in an iron work Details Other expeditions
Joze Andlovic M 1933 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Physician (surgeon) in the hospital of Nova Gorica Details Other expeditions
Marko Butinar M 1939 Yugoslavia Climber Brezice, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Turner in the Jesenice Iron & Steel Works Details Other expeditions
Anton (Tone) Skarja M 1937 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Electrician Details Other expeditions
Pavle Simenc M 1937 Yugoslavia Climber Menges, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Joiner Details Other expeditions
Ljubo Juvan M 1936 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Machinist in printing office, Ljubljana Details Other expeditions
Tone Sazonov M 1937 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Machinist, fine mechanics Details Other expeditions
Zoran Jerin M 1925 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Chief Editor, weekly newspaper & publicist, Ljubljana Details Other expeditions
Joze Govekar M 1929 Yugoslavia Leader Zalna, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Surveyor, electrical workshop Ljubljana Details Other expeditions
Girme Dorje Sherpa M 1935 Nepal H-A Worker Khunde, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Dakiya Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Phutar Sherpa M 1933 Nepal Sirdar Darjeeling, India - Details Other expeditions
Walung Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Karma Sherpa M 1936 Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANB65301 AAJ - - - 40:190-191 (1966) -
KANB65301 MM Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman Kangchenjunga - 68:34-40 (Jul 1979) -
KANB65301 - Andlovic, Joze Na Vrh Svijeta Globus, Zagreb - K367
KANB65301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196619003/Asia-Nepal-Attempt-on-Kangbachen - - -