Kali Himal | 2004 NW Face-N Ridge-N Smt

A Italy expedition to Kali Himal in 2004 via NW Face-N Ridge-N Smt, led by Simone Moro. Summit reached on 4th May 2004. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	8930
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	KALI04101
Peak ID	KALI
Year	2004
Season	1
Host Country	1
Route 1	NW Face-N Ridge-N Smt
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	Italy
Leaders	Simone Moro
Sponsor	Baruntse North Side Expedition
Success 1	True
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	4th
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	Kazakhstan, Russia
Approach	-
Basecamp Date	2004-04-08
Summit Date	2004-05-04
Summit Time	1030
Summit Days	26
Total Days	29
Termination Date	2004-05-07
Termination Reason	1
Termination Notes	-
High Point (m)	6985
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Camps	3
Fixed Rope (m)	1000
Total Members	4
Summit Members	3
Member Deaths	0
Total Hired	0
Summit Hired	0
Hired Deaths	0
No Hired	True
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	False
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	-
Campsites	BC(08/04,5100m),ABC(09/04,5250m),C1(18/04,5900m),C2(22/04,6200m),C3(03/05,6700m),Smt(04/05)
Route Notes	BC at Imja moraine glacier below Paresshaye Gyab ABC at east end of moraine where rocks stop and ice begins C1 at NW Face's pillar C2 at top of NW Face's pillar C3 at North Ridge. Pillar on NW Face used to avoid avalanches from 5650m - pillar stops at 6200m. From there up NW Face itself to North Ridge at 6700m. From C3 both Italians and Urubko at 8:00 am and up North Ridge to peak named Kali Himal (after called Baruntse North Peak). At this 7057m peak at 10:30-10:45 am (very cold and windy); back to C3 to sleep. 5th May descended to Col at 6190m between Kali Himal and Numri, then down rappelling to join descent route's pillar of Kali Himal and down ascent route to BC at 8:30 (Moro) and other 2 at 9:30 pm. This team's ascent is new route on NW Face and 2550m of zigzagging across face. Descent route same at Dutch in 1983, who said they had been on West Face of Baruntse. In spring 1994, a Czech team lead by Martin Otta climbed a similar route on the NW Face closer to the West Col at the start of the climb before intersecting with Moro's route below the North Ridge. Kali Himal or Baruntse North by Simone Moro - 12 May 2004 It had been difficult, very... but at the end using all our capacities and resistance we reached our objective. The North Face [NW Face] of Kali Himal or Baruntse Nord is really big, vertical, dangerous and impressive. It was virgin and unclimbed and only the ices of the trekkers and climber had been dreamed a climb on that wall after looking the mountain. We knew that we have to use all our capacities and strength to have success on that face. And it happened... We struggled four days and nights against wind, cold, mix climb, ice and rock. We had bivy 4 days in three people in a tent of two.... We never finded place to set it good and only our legs hanging in the void. Ice screws, rock pitons, ice axes, friends and nuts had been used to climb the complicated wall, but the real struggle had been against the wind and cold. We get 35m/sec (120 km/h) wind during all he climb and also on the summit!!! We had been very happy to reach the summit through this new and first route and we spend 12 hours to come down from the mountain rapelling on a single ice screw for 20 times... The name of the route is "Ciao Patrick" because we dedicated the climb to Patrick Berault recently dead. It was our friend and mythus.
Accidents	-
Achievement	-
Agency	Cho Oyu Trekking
Commercial Route	False
Standard Route	False
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	False
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2455629
Year	2004
Summit Success	True
O2 Summary	None
Route (lowercase)	nw face-n ridge-n smt

Members

Field	Value
ID	64845
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KALI04101
Member ID	01
Peak ID	KALI
Year	2004
Season	1
First Name	Simone
Last Name	Moro
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1967
Calculated Age	36
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Leader
Residence	Bergamo, Italy
Occupation	Alpinist
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	False
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6985
Summit Date 1	2004-05-04
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1030
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	4
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2437742
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	simone moro
Year of Birth	1967
Year	2004
Age at Expedition	37
Role	Leader

Field	Value
ID	64846
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KALI04101
Member ID	02
Peak ID	KALI
Year	2004
Season	1
First Name	Boris
Last Name	Korshunov
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1935
Calculated Age	68
Citizenship	Russia
Status	Climber
Residence	Moscow, Russia
Occupation	Engineer
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	True
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	False
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	17
HCN	0
Checksum	2426043
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	boris korshunov
Year of Birth	1935
Year	2004
Age at Expedition	69
Role	BC Only

Field	Value
ID	64847
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KALI04101
Member ID	03
Peak ID	KALI
Year	2004
Season	1
First Name	Bruno
Last Name	Tassi
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1956
Calculated Age	48
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Climber
Residence	Bergamo, Italy
Occupation	Alpine guide
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	False
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6985
Summit Date 1	2004-05-04
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1030
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	4
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2433560
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	bruno tassi
Year of Birth	1956
Year	2004
Age at Expedition	48
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	64848
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KALI04101
Member ID	04
Peak ID	KALI
Year	2004
Season	1
First Name	Denis Viktorovich
Last Name	Urubko
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1973
Calculated Age	30
Citizenship	Kazakhstan
Status	Climber
Residence	Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan
Occupation	Military officer
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	False
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6985
Summit Date 1	2004-05-04
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1030
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	4
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2439838
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	denis viktorovich urubko
Year of Birth	1973
Year	2004
Age at Expedition	31
Role	Member

4 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
Simone Moro	M	1967	Italy	Leader	Bergamo, Italy	Alpinist	Details Other expeditions
Boris Korshunov	M	1935	Russia	Climber	Moscow, Russia	Engineer	Details Other expeditions
Bruno Tassi	M	1956	Italy	Climber	Bergamo, Italy	Alpine guide	Details Other expeditions
Denis Viktorovich Urubko	M	1973	Kazakhstan	Climber	Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan	Military officer	Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.