Kagmara I | 1981 N Face-W Ridge

A France expedition to Kagmara I in 1981 via N Face-W Ridge, led by Rene Collet. Summit reached on 12th October 1981. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1821
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KAG181301
Peak ID KAG1
Year 1981
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Rene Collet
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1981-10-11
Summit Date 1981-10-12
Summit Time -
Summit Days 1
Total Days 2
Termination Date 1981-10-13
Termination Reason 9
Termination Notes Abandoned at 5200m due to shortage of time
High Point (m) 5200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Recon Kande Hiunchuli North I (KAN1-813-01)
Campsites BC(11/10,4900m),xxx(12/10,5200m)
Route Notes Collet - 27 Oct 81 Question of time, 2 ways: Kagmara Pass to Main peak to NE Ridge. BC: 200m below pass = 5000m; arrived 13 Oct because only 9 porters from Jumla so very slow. 1) NE Ridge: very dangerous because of avalanches and rotten rock. 2) W Ridge: very long way to reach it and snow up to waist, 10 days minimum. Went above BC for 5 hrs and reached 5200m on 12 Oct by Mr and Mrs Collet, Rodolphe Collet, Laserre and Simond. Then hopeless given time, shortage with flights fixed to Paris, so returned. All well; no accidents, frostbite, illness. Collet - 27 Oct 81 Impossible to go in Jagdulo valley to climb Sisne. No path, just wild jungle. Only way to Sisne is Swiss way via North Peak. Not any more interested in Sisne since planes impossible and access very long (in time) to South Peak. Collet - 1 Oct 81 Fly to Jumla and then up Jagdulo Khola as far as possible to look at South Face of Sisne to climb it Oct 1982, then back down South to Garpung Khola to attempt Kagmara I. BC at 5000m near Kagmara La 2 camps above BC at 5200 and 5600m Route = North Face to NW Ridge, probably same as British women. Leave KTM 2 Oct by charter to Jumla. 5 days to Jagdula. Recce 6 days (which is good for acclimatization). 2-3 days to Kagmara La. 4 days maximum to climb. An easy route. Arrived BC 13-14 Oct, summit 18 Oct. 1 week to return to Jumla and from Jumla to KTM 27 Oct and leave 29 Oct 2 Sherpas above BC on climb. 6 or 7 (expedition cook) to BC. Medical oxygen only. Expedition has no name.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447366
Year 1981
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face-w ridge

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Denise Collet F 1930 France Climber Paris, France - Details Other expeditions
Isabelle Collet F 1958 France Climber Paris, France Student of languages Details Other expeditions
Rene Collet M 1932 France Leader Paris, France Advertising Details Other expeditions
Rodolphe Collet M 1961 France Climber Paris, France Student (will become professional pilot) Details Other expeditions
Valerie Collet F 1960 France Climber Paris, France Student archeaology Details Other expeditions
Edouard Laffon M 1939 France Climber Paris, France Travel agent Details Other expeditions
Eric Lasserre M 1937 France Exp Doctor Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Physician Details Other expeditions
Andre Simmond M 1929 France Climbing Leader Montjoi, Aude, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KAG181301 HJ Collet, Rene A Trek to Kagmara I - 39:171-175 (1981-1982) -
KAG181301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/39/23/expeditions-and-notes-39/ - - -