Kabru Main | 2025 NW Face-N Ridge

A Slovakia expedition to Kabru Main in 2025 via NW Face-N Ridge, led by Peter Hamor. Summit reached on 4th May 2025. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 11654
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KABR25101
Peak ID KABR
Year 2025
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Face-N Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Slovakia
Leaders Peter Hamor
Sponsor Yalung Peak-Kabru Main International Expedition 2025
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Italy
Approach Jeep to Yamphudin, 5-day trek to BC
Basecamp Date 2025-04-10
Summit Date 2025-05-04
Summit Time 1700
Summit Days 24
Total Days 30
Termination Date 2025-05-10
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7412
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(10/04,5100m),Biv1A(15/04,5800m)),Biv1B(19/04,5900m)),Biv2(03/05,6300m),Smt(04/05)
Route Notes Approach: Flight to Bhadrapur, jeep to Yamphudin, 5-day trek to BC. BC 10/04 5100m a little above Yalung Glacier, at confluence of two glaciers Biv1A 15/04 From BC to bivy at 5800m 16/04 Down to BC Biv1B 19/04 From BC to bivy at 5900m 20/04 Down to BC Waited in BC for 10 days for improving weather Biv1B 02/05 From BC to bivy at 5900m Biv2 03/05 From bivy at 5900m to 6300m in the wall just before N Ridge exit Smt 04/05 To summit and down to bivy by all members at 5 pm. 05/05: Down to BC Climbing route: NW Face until bit south of Talung Peak, last part on N Ridge to summit Initial plan was to do Kabru Main for acclimatization and then climb Yalung Peak (7590m). But team could see early that conditions on Yalung looked very dangerous, a lot of seracs and a lot of snow. They soon decided from the sanctuary that an attempt this season was impossible. They found old ropes and bamboo sticks before beginning of Kabru west face. Maybe from Slovenians, who had tried Kabru without permit and had vanished during the attempt. Team to 5900m on first attempt on 19/04. Pitched tent and spent night there, very windy. Down to BC next day. Waited in BC for 10 days for the next attempt because of bad weather and large amounts of snow. Second attempt on 02/05, to bivy 1, next day to bivy 2. They carried a 60m rope, a few ice bars and screws. Team roped up only for two pitches due to wide crevasses. On 04/05 they set off from bivy 2 for the summit at 3 am. Exhausting and dangerous ascent through a lot of snow. High avalanche danger, there was a crust of hard ice and snow layer on top. Last part of North Ridge probably hardest part of climb, ridge dangerously corniced. Reached the summit at 5 pm. On the summit for 15 minutes, weather was not good, totally cloudy without any views and it was late in the day. It got dark, and they were scared to have to spend a night in the open if they were not able to find their way back to the tent. Luckily everyone back to the bivy at 10-11 pm. Next day down to BC, arrived at BC for late lunch. Descent as ascent, with 1 rappel at a steep section 50-60m below the summit. Orientation and route finding was always an issue, it was tough to find a reasonable way through the crevasses. Majority of climb not very technical, only on last part of ridge. Climb included a long summit day, since impossible to pitch tent above 6300m. Left BC on 10/05. Oxygen: Not taken, not used Climbing route: NW Face until bit south of Talung Peak, last part on N Ridge to summit. Route name: “Himalayan Trad” Records: New route; first legal ascent of Kabru Main from Nepal side.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Cho Oyu Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2464265
Year 2025
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw face-n ridge

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Peter Hamor M 1964 Slovakia Leader Poprad, Slovakia Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Romano Benet M 1962 Italy/Slovenia Climber Tarvisio, Udine, Italy Shopkeeper Details Other expeditions
Nives Meroi F 1961 Italy Climber Tarvisio, Udine, Italy Alpinist and writer Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KABR25101 - - https://explorersweb.com/trio-to-attempt-new-route-near-kangchenjunga/ - - -
KABR25101 - - https://explorersweb.com/yalung-peak-climbers-on-summit-push/ - - -
KABR25101 - - https://explorersweb.com/veteran-trio-bags-new-route-on-kabru-i/ - - -
KABR25101 - - https://explorersweb.com/new-trad-route-near-kangchenjunga/ - - -