Jugal 1 | 2024 E Face

A S Korea expedition to Jugal 1 in 2024 via E Face, led by Um Hong-Gil. Summit reached on 3rd May 2024. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 11376
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JUG124101
Peak ID JUG1
Year 2024
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality S Korea
Leaders Um Hong-Gil
Sponsor Nepal Korea Friendship Expedition 2024
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st,2nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Nepal
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2024-04-12
Summit Date 2024-05-03
Summit Time 1540
Summit Days 21
Total Days 25
Termination Date 2024-05-07
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6591
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/04,4700m),ABC(14/04,5200m),C1(-2/05,5700m),Smt(03-04/05)
Route Notes Approach: KTM to Tembathang by Jeep. From Tembathang trekking to BC in 4 days. Day 1: Tembathang to Chhendang Day 2: to Ne-Pemachhal Day 3: to Palmothang Day 4: to BC BC 12/04 4700m on rocky moraine near Jugal Glacier ABC 14/04 5200m at the base of East Face C1 02/05 5700m on small ledge in East Face Smt 03/05 by Um Hong-Gil Um, Lakpa Dendi Sherpa, Lama Babu Sherpa at 3:40 pm 04/05 by Baek Jong-Min, Koo Eun-Soo, Kim Dong-Jin Eom Tae-Chul at 8:30 am. First summit push started on 26/04 at 10 pm from high camp. It was a 24-hour push, that brought them to the altitude of 6300m, where they had to turn back because of bad weather. Everyone back to high camp on 27/04 at 10-12 pm. Everyone back to BC in the morning of 28/04. On 28-29/04 whole team flew back to KTM to attend festivities of the 50th anniversary of Nepal-Korea Friendship. On 01/05 Joung Je-Gyun and Byeon Jun-Ki abandoned expedition because of work. On 01-02/05 the team flew back to BC. On 02/05 Um Hong-Gil and Lakpa Dendi Sherpa by helicopter from base camp to high camp. Rest of the team hiked to high camp the same day. Team had decided after first summit push to establish another camp to start a new summit push from there. On 02/05 Lakpa Dendi Sherpa established C1, rest of the team followed. Lakpa Dendi Sherpa, Lama Babu Sherpa and Um Hong-Gil started for the summit from C1 on 03/05 at 1 am and reached the top at 3:40 pm. Good views from the top, clear sky. Back to high camp at 8:30 pm, next day back to BC. Beak Jong-Min, Koo Eun-Soo, Kim Dong-Jin and Eom Tae-Chul set off from C1 on 03/05 at 10 pm. At the top at 8:30 am the next day. Everyone down to high camp at 2 pm. Members: Um Hong-Gil S) Joung Je-Gyun (HP: 6300m) Byeon Jun-Ki (HP: 6300m) Beak Jong-Min (S) Koo Eun-Soo (S) Kim Dong-Jin (S) Eom Tae-Chul(S) Hired : Lakpa Dendi Sherpa (S) Lama Babu Sherpa (S) Min Bahadur Lama (HP: 6300m) Dame Sherpa (HP: 5500m) Left BC on 06/05 Um Hong-Gil, Lhakpa Dendi, Lama Babu; on 07/05 rest of team. Members at end: 5 Sherpas above BC: 4 Climbing route: East Face Oxygen use: Not taken, not used Fixed rope: 3500m Records: First Ascent Other peaks: None Accidents: Avalanche occurred on 21/04 at 5500m, burying Dame Sherpa. He was rescued on time and sustained only minor injuries. Flown out by helicopter and hospitalized for two days. Team held permit for Jugal 2, but made no attempt.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Sora Adventure
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2462593
Year 2024
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e face

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hong-Gil Um M 1960 S Korea Leader Seoul, S Korea Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Jong-Min Baek M 1973 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Travel Details Other expeditions
Jun-Ki Byeon M 1978 S Korea Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Tae-Chul Eom M 1976 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Travel Details Other expeditions
Je-Gyun Joung M 1973 S Korea Climber Jeonju, Jeollabuk, S Korea - Details Other expeditions
Dong-Jin Kim M 1973 S Korea Climber Jeju City, Jeju (Cheju), S Korea Automobile engineer Details Other expeditions
Eun-Soo Koo M 1970 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Executive Vice President of Korean Alpine Rescue Association Details Other expeditions
Min Bahadur Lama M 1978 Nepal Climber Sindhupalchowk - Details Other expeditions
Saral Sahayatri Paudel M 1981 Nepal Climber Maneshwara-7, Sindhupalchowk Student politician (United Communist Party of Nepal Maoist) Details Other expeditions
Dawa Yangzum Sherpa F 1990 Nepal Climber Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Dame Sherpa M 1993 Nepal H-A Worker Okhaldhunga - Details Other expeditions
Lama Babu Sherpa M 1989 Nepal H-A Worker Waku-4, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Dendi Sherpa M 1988 Nepal H-A Worker Chheskam-2, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.