Jethi Bahurani | 1978 N Ridge from E

A Japan expedition to Jethi Bahurani in 1978 via N Ridge from E, led by Kazuhiko Yamada. Summit reached on 27th April 1978. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2141
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JETH78101
Peak ID JETH
Year 1978
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Ridge from E
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Kazuhiko Yamada
Sponsor Himalayan Committee of Shinshu University
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Silgarhidoti->Seti Khola->Chainpur->Dhuli->BC
Basecamp Date 1978-04-07
Summit Date 1978-04-27
Summit Time 1420
Summit Days 20
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6850
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/04),C1(12/04,4500m),C2(14/04,5500m),C3(20/04,6150m),Smt(27/04)
Route Notes Mitsui - 26 Aug 78 Correct local name for peak climbed is Jutibofurani. SR Sharma, Tourism - 2 Aug 78 Leader of "Nampa" expedition barred from climbing in Nepal for 5 years from June 1978 as penalty for his expedition's climbing Jettiborani, which is not on permitted list and for which no permission given. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism Ministry - 20 June 78 For background information only: Nampa expedition said the approach route they were permitted to use required them to climb "Nampa South" and LO agrees. Action will be taken against expedition, but when and what he cannot say. Iseki - 24 May 78 Mitsui, Yoshido and Morota reached summit via East Ridge 27 April; only summit assault attempt; no oxygen with expedition. Top of ridge very sharp so made route just on north side of ridge. No avalanche problem: not much snow because wind took it away. 1972 route from west and north very much more difficult because west side very steep. No accident or frostbite or illness. All very well. SR Sharma, Tourism - 9 May 78 Nampa South 6940m Jettiborani Success 27 April by Kazuo Mitsui, 25 Hideki Yoshida, 23 Norbuto Morata, 21 Rest of expedition to be here by end of May. Ranjan Bhattacharya, Express House - 9 May 78 Nampa leader came to KTM 7 May and went to Japan today. Others arrive 20th May. Climbed their peak on 27th April. SR Sharma, Tourism - 7 May 78 Nampa camps: C1 12 Apr - 4500m C2 14 Apr - 5500m C3 20 Apr - 6150m C3 is to be their highest (last) camp, report received 5 May 78 said. Dr. Yamada - 4 March 78 Jettiborani is real goal. 1972 - Chanlia Khola and Rokapi Khola to west side of Jetti to North Ridge Present expedition: east side of Bankya Lekh: Salimor Khola to East Ridge or North Ridge from east side. Fly to Silgarhidoti and then to Seti Khola, Chainpur and Dhuli to BC Return: some via Dhangari, some via Jumla, or all via Doti. Request flights in 2 Otters one on 6th and one 7th but RNAC not confirmed. Caravan maybe 2 weeks maybe more; difficult route and porters. 40 days climbing, probably 3 camps C1 5000m C2 5800m C3 6400m Summit 6849m (not 6940m) No Sherpas above BC, no oxygen for climbing or sleeping.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446054
Year 1978
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n ridge from e

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kazuhiko Yamada M 1938 Japan Leader Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan Lecture of Shinshu Univ; physician in Maruko Chuo Hospital Details Other expeditions
Yoshiro Ijeki M 1947 Japan Climber - Technician Details Other expeditions
Kazuo Mitsui M 1951 Japan Climber Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan Salesman of office machines Details Other expeditions
Hideki Yoshida M 1953 Japan Climber Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan Student at Shinshu University (Japanese History) Details Other expeditions
Nobuhito Morota M 1954 Japan Climber Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan Student at Shinshu University Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JETH78101 AAJ - - - 53:266 (1979) -
JETH78101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 53:280 (1979) -
JETH78101 IWA - - - 67:147 (1979) -
JETH78101 IWA - - - 67:48 (1979) -
JETH78101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197926601/Asia-Nepal-Disciplinary-Measures-Taken-by-the-Nepalese-Government - - -
JETH78101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197928000/Asia-Nepal-Jetiboburani-Nampa-Group - - -