Jethi Bahurani | 1972 N Ridge from W

A Japan expedition to Jethi Bahurani in 1972 via N Ridge from W, led by Yasuo Ohsumi. Summit reached on 27th October 1972. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2356
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JETH72301
Peak ID JETH
Year 1972
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Ridge from W
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Yasuo Ohsumi
Sponsor Nagoya University Expedition to Northwest Nepal 1972
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Dhangarhi->Chamlia Khola
Basecamp Date 1972-10-02
Summit Date 1972-10-27
Summit Time -
Summit Days 25
Total Days 36
Termination Date 1972-11-07
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6150m due to storm and Sherpa death
High Point (m) 6150
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(02/10,3750m),C1(06/10,4410m),C2(17/10,5100m),C3(25/10,6050m),xxx(27/10,6150m)
Route Notes Sweda & Takeyama - 2 Dec 72 Jettiborani (about 6940m) due south of Nampa on ridge south from Nampa (intermediate peak between Nampa and Jettiborani is Bobaye; another peak south of Jettiborani is Rokapi). 2 km from Nampa to Bobaye and another 2 km to Jettiborani. BC (due west) on west side of JB at 3750m established 2 Oct; west side is a face. Expedition's route via glacier northeastwards from BC to ridge north of JB. Had 4 camps above base; C4 at 6050m established 25 Oct. Highest point was 6150m on 27th Oct by Naoharu Takeyama, Tatsuo Sweda, Yuichi Furuse, Seizo Hotta. C1 on glacier C2 on col north of JB C3 and C4 on ridge Needed a C5 but had only total 4 tents and snowstorm began 27th and continued 3-1/2 days and during storm 1 Sherpa died of apoplexy (brain bleeding) at C2 at 5100m on 27th (body buried at C2). No accidents, frostbite or other serious illness. Route they tried is possible to climb, probably only route. Long route with some easy parts and some very steep parts on ridge and in icefall between C1 and C2 where avalanches come frequently. All members returned to KTM by air from Dhangari except Yamagata, who is still trekking. Leader already in Japan; didn't go to BC. "We expected smaller and easier peak. This main difficulty." Shrestha - 13 Nov 72 Nampa (message sent yesterday by LO) 27 Oct up to 6150m; because bad weather 4 days and death at C2 of Ang Temba Sherpa gave up climbing and returned to base; left base camp 7 Nov. Hotta - 25 Aug 72 29 Aug leave KTM to Simra; Raxaul to Dangari by rail 31 arrive Dhangari 2 Sept leave Arrive 28 Sept BC "Nampa South" 5-10 km from main peak, due south; has no name: MFA asks it be called "Nampa South." Base on west side of "Nampa South." Have no photo, so cannot say route because don't know features. Pioneering like expeditions those in 1950s. 4 HA Sherpas and 1 kitchen boy and mailrunners (1/2 weeks to MFA and embassy). 50 porters to base. 5 Nov end of climbing period; if not able reach summit by then, will come back. Hotta - 24 Aug 72 4 members arrived today; leave for India and Dhangari 27th or 28th. Sweda and Furuse have gone to India already. Hotta, Sweda and Furuse - 9 Aug 72 Nagoya University Expedition to NW Nepal 1972 - Nampa South 3 members in KTM now, rest 4 arrive 24 Aug. Hotta stays KTM whiles other 2 now in KTM go to CCU tomorrow and thence by road with baggage to Dhangari. Hotta and 4 to be in Guest House or Rawa House. Route from south; will climb Nampa South Peak, not Main Peak. South Peak hidden by other mountains and not discovered. South Peak is 6940m high (thus higher then main peak). No climber has been on South Peak. 4 Sherpas including Sirdar (not decided who will be Sirdar) Hotta and 4 Japanese leave KTM about 26 Aug, by rail in India to Dhangari All in Dhangari about 1st Sept. Leave 3 Sept on 25-day caravan to base camp. Expect establish 4 higher camps with C4 at about 6300m; summit attack end Oct or early Nov.
Accidents 1 Sherpa died of brain hemorrhage
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2444040
Year 1972
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n ridge from w

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yasuo Ohsumi M 1940 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Research officer, Forest Research Laboratory, Tokyo Details Other expeditions
Naoharu Takeyama M 1944 Japan Climbing Ldr/Exp Doctor - Staff member, Takayama-Kumiai Hospital, Takayama city Details Other expeditions
Tatsuo Sweda M 1946 Japan Climber Gujo-Hachiman, Gifu, Japan Holds BSc degree from Nagoya University Details Other expeditions
Takashi Ito M 1948 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Kanaya city Details Other expeditions
Yuichi Furuse M 1949 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Nagoya University undergraduate student in aeronautical engineer Details Other expeditions
Seizo Hotta M 1951 Japan Climber Owariasahi, Aichi, Japan Nagoya University undergraduate student in economics Details Other expeditions
Shigeo Yamagata M 1951 Japan Climber Senriyama, Osaka, Japan Nagoya University undergraduate student in physics Details Other expeditions
Ang Temba Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Chotare Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JETH72301 AAJ Yoshizawa, Ichiro - - 47:487 (1973) -
JETH72301 HJ Takeyama, N. & Sweda, T. An Attempt on Jeth-Bohurani or Nampa South Peak, 1972 - 32:28-33 (1972-73) -
JETH72301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197348702/Asia-Nepal-Jethibohurani-or-Nampa-South-Attempt - - -
JETH72301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/32/4/an-attempt-on-jethi-bohurani-or-nampa-south-peak-1972/ - - -