Jarkya | 2023 S Ridge (to 6257m)

A Japan expedition to Jarkya in 2023 via S Ridge (to 6257m), led by Daijo Saito. Summit reached on 28th April 2023. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 11113
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JARK23101
Peak ID JARK
Year 2023
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge (to 6257m)
Route 2 SW Ridge (to 5700m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Daijo Saito
Sponsor Japanese Jarkya Himal Expedition 2023
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Machha Khola->Samdo
Basecamp Date 2023-04-15
Summit Date 2023-04-28
Summit Time -
Summit Days 13
Total Days 20
Termination Date 2023-05-05
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6257m due to exhaustion
High Point (m) 6257
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(15/04,4571m),ABC(19/04,4812m),C1(27/04,5644m),xxx(28/04,6257m)
Route Notes Approach: Machha Khola->Samdo BC 15/04 4571m underneath rock face ABC 19/04 4812m C1 27/04 5644m HPt 28/04 6257m by all (4) climbers. Approach route to BC was from Samdo; it was 11 km on a yak trail. They passed many kharkas on the way. On 16/04 they rested at BC. On 17/04 they went on a walk to acclimatise; on 18/04 Sugimoto and Nomura did a recce and checked the South Ridge of the East Peak, however, it looked rather broken and sandy. South Ridge attempt: On 19/04 they reached ABC and on 20/04 they reached 5520m in their search for a suitable C1 which they found. The route up to the envisaged C1 was not so technical. Only one place climbing was necessary. They returned to BC the same evening and rested there for a few days. They had bad weather and a lot of snow. On the evening of 26/04 they returned to ABC – it was about 1.5 hours walk. On 27/04, they established C1 and on the same day, Sugimoto and Saito ascended to 5769m. They fixed a rope for abseiling and returned to C1 the same day. On 28/04, the team left C1 for their summit push at 4 am. Weather was good on that day, which was a change to the previous days. The route was not so steep. At around 1pm, they reached 6257m. The team felt exhausted, the weather had changed for the worse, and they realised that their plan to climb to the main peak via the East Peak was not possible. The climb was too technical to descend on the other side and reach the main summit. The descended to C1 where they arrived at about 4 pm. On 29/04 they returned to BC to make a new plan. They decided to attempt the SW Ridge. SW Ridge attempt: C1 01/05 4970m On 01/05 they left BC to ascend to and establish their C1. On 02/05 they ascended to around 5700m and checked the route. Sugimoto fell into a crevasse, but fortunately they were on a rope and he could climb out again with Saito’s help. After this incident the team, who was exhausted, decided that the route was too dangerous and returned to C1, where they spent the night. On 03/05 they descended to BC. Team left BC on 05/05. Oxygen: Not taken, not used Fixed rope: Only short abseiling sections
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Hoshi Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2464471
Year 2023
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge (to 6257m)

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Daijo Saito M 1986 Japan Leader Hokkaido, Japan Monk, Self-Defense Forces Details Other expeditions
Mizuki Kobayashi F 1994 Japan Member Shizuoka, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Ryota Nomura M 1994 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Fumihiko Saito M 1966 Japan Member Tokyo, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Yoshihiro Sato M 1971 Japan Member Hokkaido, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Tatsuro Sugimoto M 1988 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Alpine guide & tour leader Details Other expeditions
Masayuki Takenaka M 1990 Japan Climber Nara, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Hirofumi Zusho M 1980 Japan Member Toyama, Japan - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JARK23101 - - https://explorersweb.com/japanese-jarkya-peak/ - - -
JARK23101 AAJ Griffin, Lindsay Jarkya, Attempt - 98:310 (2024) -
JARK23101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216866 - - -