Jannu | 1997 N Face (to 6000m)
A USA expedition to Jannu in 1997 via N Face (to 6000m), led by Damian Benegas. Summit reached on 12th October 1997. 9 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2467 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | JANU97301 |
| Peak ID | JANU |
| Year | 1997 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | N Face (to 6000m) |
| Route 2 | SE Ridge (to 6000m) |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | USA |
| Leaders | Damian Benegas |
| Sponsor | 1997 Jannu North Face Expedition |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Argentina, Australia |
| Approach | Ghunsa Khola->Khambachen and in Kumbhakarna Glacier |
| Basecamp Date | 1997-09-20 |
| Summit Date | 1997-10-12 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 22 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 10 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 6000m due route difficulty and route disagreements |
| High Point (m) | 6000 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 0 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 300 |
| Total Members | 9 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 1 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(20/09,4550m),ABC(Oct,5100m),Oct(5480m),xxx(12/10,6000m) |
| Route Notes | BC at Kumbhakarna Glacier High point at north wall face. Early Oct slept one night in boulder camp, which was essentially a depot. Then still in early Oct, used C1 to sleep in instead. Got only 400m vertically up wall and then down because disagreement on how to climb face. Also could see wind blowing 100 mph daily on summit, so no point in attempting to reach it. 2 Benegas brothers went to 5700m in first effort on wall; were fixing rope to this point and down to C1. In C1 found all others in disagreement with them and brothers gave up climb and down to BC. Ogden & Sustad went up and fixed some more line to 6000m and then down. Really bad snow on wall and difficult to fix rope. Sustad and Ogden felt impossible to climb wall/face with only 2 climbers. Grajales and Wong went around to SE Ridge to see possible descent route and got to 6000m 12-13th Oct and then down. Then told members had abandoned north attempt; had gone up to 6000m from there C2 at about 5900m just below SE Ridge itself with Ang Babu Tshering Sherpa. Wong - 27 Oct 97 Wong and Grajales intended to go to summit via SE Ridge with Babu Tshering and were unpleasantly surprised to be instructed by walkie-talkie by Benegas to abandon climb. Only then learned team had no permit for SE Ridge and he told them to quit as they were there illegally. Spitzer - 27 Oct 97 Expedition was disaster because leader self-centered and unable to organize things properly. |
| Accidents | Nothing serious; members left because of disagreements |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Nomad Expeditions |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2453181 |
| Year | 1997 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | n face (to 6000m) |
Members
9 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Damian Benegas | M | 1968 | USA | Leader | Berkeley, California | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Guillermo (Willie) Benegas | M | 1968 | USA | Climber | Berkeley, California | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Todd Gilmore Jr. | M | 1942 | USA | Climber | Sunnyvale, California | Satellite communications engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Fernando Nicolas Grajales Abad Jr. | M | 1979 | Argentina | Climber | Mendoza, Argentina | Student (just finished high school) | Details Other expeditions |
| Cameron Lawson | M | 1969 | USA | Climber | Murray, Utah | Photographer & clothing company owner | Details Other expeditions |
| Jared Ogden | M | 1971 | USA | Climber | Berkeley, California | Professional alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Travis A. Spitzer | M | 1971 | USA | Climber | Durango, Colorado | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Stephen F. Sustad | M | 1960 | USA | Climber | Oswestry, Shropshire, England | Carpenter & climber | Details Other expeditions |
| Vera Wong | F | 1971 | Australia | Climber | Glen Waverley, Victoria, Australia | Ecologist | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| JANU97301 | AAJ | Ogden, Jared | - | - | 72:313 (1998) | - |
| JANU97301 | HIGH | - | - | - | 188:20 (Jul 1998) | - |
| JANU97301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199831302/Asia-Nepal-Jannu-North-Face-Attempt | - | - | - |