Jannu | 1997 N Face (to 6000m)

A USA expedition to Jannu in 1997 via N Face (to 6000m), led by Damian Benegas. Summit reached on 12th October 1997. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2467
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JANU97301
Peak ID JANU
Year 1997
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face (to 6000m)
Route 2 SE Ridge (to 6000m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Damian Benegas
Sponsor 1997 Jannu North Face Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Argentina, Australia
Approach Ghunsa Khola->Khambachen and in Kumbhakarna Glacier
Basecamp Date 1997-09-20
Summit Date 1997-10-12
Summit Time -
Summit Days 22
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6000m due route difficulty and route disagreements
High Point (m) 6000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 300
Total Members 9
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(20/09,4550m),ABC(Oct,5100m),Oct(5480m),xxx(12/10,6000m)
Route Notes BC at Kumbhakarna Glacier High point at north wall face. Early Oct slept one night in boulder camp, which was essentially a depot. Then still in early Oct, used C1 to sleep in instead. Got only 400m vertically up wall and then down because disagreement on how to climb face. Also could see wind blowing 100 mph daily on summit, so no point in attempting to reach it. 2 Benegas brothers went to 5700m in first effort on wall; were fixing rope to this point and down to C1. In C1 found all others in disagreement with them and brothers gave up climb and down to BC. Ogden & Sustad went up and fixed some more line to 6000m and then down. Really bad snow on wall and difficult to fix rope. Sustad and Ogden felt impossible to climb wall/face with only 2 climbers. Grajales and Wong went around to SE Ridge to see possible descent route and got to 6000m 12-13th Oct and then down. Then told members had abandoned north attempt; had gone up to 6000m from there C2 at about 5900m just below SE Ridge itself with Ang Babu Tshering Sherpa. Wong - 27 Oct 97 Wong and Grajales intended to go to summit via SE Ridge with Babu Tshering and were unpleasantly surprised to be instructed by walkie-talkie by Benegas to abandon climb. Only then learned team had no permit for SE Ridge and he told them to quit as they were there illegally. Spitzer - 27 Oct 97 Expedition was disaster because leader self-centered and unable to organize things properly.
Accidents Nothing serious; members left because of disagreements
Achievement -
Agency Nomad Expeditions
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453181
Year 1997
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face (to 6000m)

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Damian Benegas M 1968 USA Leader Berkeley, California Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Guillermo (Willie) Benegas M 1968 USA Climber Berkeley, California Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Todd Gilmore Jr. M 1942 USA Climber Sunnyvale, California Satellite communications engineer Details Other expeditions
Fernando Nicolas Grajales Abad Jr. M 1979 Argentina Climber Mendoza, Argentina Student (just finished high school) Details Other expeditions
Cameron Lawson M 1969 USA Climber Murray, Utah Photographer & clothing company owner Details Other expeditions
Jared Ogden M 1971 USA Climber Berkeley, California Professional alpinist Details Other expeditions
Travis A. Spitzer M 1971 USA Climber Durango, Colorado Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Stephen F. Sustad M 1960 USA Climber Oswestry, Shropshire, England Carpenter & climber Details Other expeditions
Vera Wong F 1971 Australia Climber Glen Waverley, Victoria, Australia Ecologist Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JANU97301 AAJ Ogden, Jared - - 72:313 (1998) -
JANU97301 HIGH - - - 188:20 (Jul 1998) -
JANU97301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199831302/Asia-Nepal-Jannu-North-Face-Attempt - - -