Jannu | 1994 N Face-NW Buttress

A France expedition to Jannu in 1994 via N Face-NW Buttress, led by Pierre Rizzardo. Summit reached on 12th October 1994. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1406
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JANU94301
Peak ID JANU
Year 1994
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face-NW Buttress
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Pierre Rizzardo
Sponsor Jannu 1994
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1994-09-20
Summit Date 1994-10-12
Summit Time -
Summit Days 22
Total Days 27
Termination Date 1994-10-17
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6900m due to route difficulty, cold and wind
High Point (m) 6900
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 900
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(20/09,4500m),C1(28/09,5400m),Biv(10/10,6350m),Biv(12/10,6900m),xxx(12/10,6900m)
Route Notes BC at Khumbha Glacier south of Mera Peak C1 on top of rock pillar beside icefall (left side) Biv at Col between Jannu and Sobithongie on Jannu's NW Ridge Biv at snow cave on NW Buttress High point at 2nd bivouac. On top of rock pillar is glacier plateau where pitched C1 to at same site as previous expeditions; fixed rope from BC to C1 to make easier to ferry loads & slow ascent to C1 was good acclimatization. Alpine-style climb above C1 with moving tent but fixed from end of plateau with 500m light foxed ropes. Climbed 50m to left to 400m to right of Belgian's route on N Face because big serac over it looked dangerous. Reached col between Jannu and Sobithongie (6669m to W of Jannu) on 10th, rested at biv here on 11th & on 12th moved up NW Buttress to 6900m. Mixed ice snow and rocks, very difficult between C1 and col only slightly less difficult above col with same sections below col 80 degrees steepness and fixed 500m here. Stopped climb at 6900m because of continuing technical difficulty & because of cold and wind. Perhaps 400m below end of difficulty at shoulder but difficulty was continuous. NW Buttress is right border of N Face. Robach returned to climb and C1 on 6 Oct after serious viral infection; Molinatti and Rizzardo did most of fixing above C1 in Robach's absence.
Accidents Slight frostbite toes of Robach and Rizzardo; Robach serious virus and went down
Achievement -
Agency Pabil Treks
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452082
Year 1994
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face-nw buttress

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Xavier Cret M 1968 France Climber Villar d'Arene, Haute-Alpes, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Robin Molinatti M 1966 France Climber Pelvoux, Hautes-Alpes, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Pierre Rizzardo M 1969 France Leader Grenoble, Isere, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Paul Robach M 1969 France Climber Sevres, Hauts-de-Seine, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JANU94301 AAJ Robach, Paul - - 69:230 (1995) -
JANU94301 HJ Robach, Paul Kumbhakarna North Face Attempt - 52:191-193 (1996) -
JANU94301 HIGH - - - 151:13 (Jun 1995) -
JANU94301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199523002/Asia-Nepal-Kumbhakarna-Jannu-Attempt - - -
JANU94301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/52/21/expeditions-and-notes-52/ - - -