Jannu | 1989 SW Pillar-S Face

A Poland expedition to Jannu in 1989 via SW Pillar-S Face, led by Jan Orlowski. Summit reached on 9th January 1990. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 530
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JANU89401
Peak ID JANU
Year 1989
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Pillar-S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Jan Orlowski
Sponsor Polish Jannu Winter Expedition 1989-90
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1989-11-24
Summit Date 1990-01-09
Summit Time -
Summit Days 46
Total Days 47
Termination Date 1990-01-10
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7360m due to terrible winds, dangerous icefall
High Point (m) 7360
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 3500
Total Members 9
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(24/11,4450m),ABC(30/11,4850m),C1(05/12,5350m),C2(12/12,5800m),C3(20/12,6450m),C4A(02/01,6700m),C4B(07/01,7200m),xxx(09/01,7360m)
Route Notes BC at Yamotari Glacier ABC at moraine of Yamatori Glacier C1 above icefall in Cwm, below West Face C2 on SW Pillar at very narrow place C3 in crevasse above 2nd serac on SW Pillar C4A behind top of SW pillar (100m down in a crevasse) C4B in crevasse before summit wall. Too much wind which made high technical climbing impossible. Technical climbing begin 1st Dec. Long walk from BC to ABC; C1 difficult rock of W Face to begining of W Pillar. Route was combination of variation of French & Czech routes climbed to top of W Pillar. Above top is glacier with crevasses. Wind fierce & hard ice to pillar & steep glacier. Windy so could not climb for each day. Fixed total 3500m rope, which takes a lot of work but needed in windy weather. At high point stopped because of danger from fierce gusts of wind. C2 tent blown half off ridge. Other member blown off his feet at glacier & saved by having held on to fixed rope. Very difficult route. Fixed 700m in icefall (300m vertical gain) and 1000m on high steep glacier.
Accidents Nothing serious
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450340
Year 1989
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw pillar-s face

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Stanislaw Zbigniew Dudek M 1950 Poland Climber Krakow, Poland Architect Details Other expeditions
Kazimierz Kiszka M 1956 Poland Climber Krakow, Poland Economist Details Other expeditions
Ryszard Stanislaw Knapczyk M 1954 Poland Deputy Leader Krakow, Poland Technician Details Other expeditions
Jan Orlowski M 1953 Poland Leader Krakow, Poland High-altitude worker (building, cleaning & maintenance) Details Other expeditions
Ryszard Papaj M 1956 Poland Climber Krakow, Poland Physicist Details Other expeditions
Adam Potoczek M 1956 Poland Climber Chrzanow, Poland Geologist Details Other expeditions
Andrzej Samolewicz M 1949 Poland Climber Krakow, Poland Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Bogdan Stefko M 1965 Poland Climber Wroclaw, Poland Geologist Details Other expeditions
Piotr Wojciechowski M 1957 Poland Climber Katowice, Poland Physician Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JANU89401 AAJ Orlowski, Jan - - 64:217 (1990) -
JANU89401 MM - - - 132:11 (Mar 1990) -
JANU89401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199021701/Asia-Nepal-Kumbhakarna-Attempt-1990 - - -