Jannu | 1989 SW Face-S Ridge

A USA expedition to Jannu in 1989 via SW Face-S Ridge, led by Hooman Aprin. Summit reached on 27th October 1989. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 373
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JANU89301
Peak ID JANU
Year 1989
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face-S Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Hooman Aprin
Sponsor Him-Kooh American Jannu Expedition 1989
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1989-09-27
Summit Date 1989-10-27
Summit Time -
Summit Days 30
Total Days 32
Termination Date 1989-10-29
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7050m due to strong winds
High Point (m) 7050
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 550
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(27/09,4475m),C1(01/10,5170m),C2(05/10,5630m),C3(15/10,5940m),Biv1(21/10,6140m),Biv2(26/10,6400m),Biv3(27/10,7050m),xxx(27/10,7050m)
Route Notes BC at Yamotari Glacier C1 at left edge of another glacier C2 above icefall below 2 towers C3 right below 1st tower on a subsidiary ridge to S Ridge. 2 towers are difficult to get to mountain; between C2 and C3 another most difficult section and fixed ropes here. Total 1800 ft fixed, 1500 of it between C2 and C3. Getting around 2 towers continuously technical climbing. Had temporary camps above C3, moving tents upward. 21 Oct at 6140m. Weather was perfect in these days until we reached 7050m at top of summit wall, just one day below summit, where winds started up. Stayed 2 nights but wind continued without stop and even got worse. Went down on 29th because of wind, low supplies and time running out. Had excellent snow conditions. Next time will fix the wall and in bad weather go down quickly.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan Journeys
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450266
Year 1989
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face-s ridge

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hooman Nmi Aprin M 1946 USA Leader Jackson, Wyoming Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Rob Mahoney M 1949 USA Climber Wilson, Wyoming Geologist & building worker (tile setter) Details Other expeditions
Kevin O'Meara M 1958 USA Exp Doctor Park City, Utah Emergency physician Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JANU89301 AAJ Aprin, Hooman - - 64:216-217 (1990) -
JANU89301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199021604/Asia-Nepal-Kumbhakarna-Jannu-Attempt - - -