Jannu | 1987 Variant of S Ridge (to 5800m)

A France expedition to Jannu in 1987 via Variant of S Ridge (to 5800m), led by Henri Sigayret. Summit reached on 6th November 1987. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 287
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JANU87303
Peak ID JANU
Year 1987
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 Variant of S Ridge (to 5800m)
Route 2 S Ridge (French 1962 rte)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Henri Sigayret
Sponsor France Jannu Autumn Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 18th
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Ghunsa->Yamatri Glacier
Basecamp Date 1987-10-21
Summit Date 1987-11-06
Summit Time -
Summit Days 16
Total Days 18
Termination Date 1987-11-08
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7711
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(21/10,4500m),ABC(22/10,4800m),C1(23/10,5300m),C2(27/10,6000m),C3(03/11,6400m),C4(05/11,7000m),Smt(06/11)
Route Notes At first tried "Youngster's Spur", but too difficult above 5800m and turned back: very difficult ice mushrooms, too difficult for 2 climbers. Tried for 3 days and gave up on 27th Oct and returned to C1 for 1962 French route, which joined at this expedition's C2. Bivouac at 6500m to wait for better weather. Sigayret and Julliard to 7400m on 6th Nov at 4 pm and returned to C4 with slight frostbite; Vallet and Vincent summited and returned to C4 at 11 pm with only slight frostbite. Climb now finished: all other members had gone back to BC several days earlier. From AAJ: BC(21/10,4500m),ABC(23/10),C1(24/10,5300m),C2(27/10,6000m),C3(03/11,6400m), C4(05/11,7000m),Smt(06/11) Jannu Expedition Francaise, by Henri Sigayret Ascent From Ghunsa to BC 1: Tuesday October 20th: Beautiful weather. We had some porters with some yaks. We had had snow at about 4000m high. At base camp 1 there was 50 cm of snow which had been settled by the sun. BC 1 is the usual camp of expeditions on that side. In particular, it is that of the French expedition of 1962. It is located near a moraine lake on a grass space; it is very comfortable. The height is about 4500m. The sirdar has thought it possible to have the expedition gear carried until base camp 1. We have also set up a further camp, i.e., base camp 2 [ABC]. Date: Oct 22nd: It is situated in the middle of the Yamatri glacier. Its height is about 4800m. There is no difficulty between BC 1 and BC 2. From basecamp 1, one follows the lake on the south side, one goes down the moraine (very steep - be aware of stone falls). Then one goes up again easily the glacier. In general there is water. There are small lakes, and some small glacial streams. From BC 2 to C1: Date: Oct 23rd: All the team, besides Gerard Auger, went up to C1. Route: one follows the Yamatri glacier then one crosses it to go on the moraine which is alongside the Youngster's Spur. One then goes up the moraine, then, through a small corridor, one crosses on the right. Then one goes up a little to a shelf near some big blocks. This is on the right bank of the A Glacier. The altitude is about 5300m. No difficulty is to be found. We placed the tents on Oct 23 and Oct 24th. All the team goes down to BC. Attempt on the Youngster's Spur: Date: 25/26th Oct An ice corridor may be seen in the middle of the Youngster's Spur. It's facing south and its foot is near C1. Its gradient is about 40 to 45 degrees, but in some points it may reach 60 degrees or more. In its upper part, it meets the ridge of the Youngster's Spur (passages are steeper). The Youngster's Spur is mixed: there are ice passages, cornices - rock passages. This spur is climbed with several lengths of rope. The spur has been equipped by Elisabeth Julliard, Henri Sigayret, Frederic Vallet and Michel Vincent. Frederic Vallet is head-man in this part. Beyond Point B, the ridge is snowed in. There is drifting snow and mushrooms cornices. Too much gear and too many days would be necessary to equip this ridge. The head team decided to find a new route which meets the French one. The team climbed down and took off the material which equipped the ridge and the corridor. The descent was done without any problems. From C1 to the French route Tuesday Oct 27th: Dawa Sherpa and Mane Bahadur are head-man on the glacier. Its heavy going. They are followed by Elisabeth Juliard and Henry Sigayret, then by Frederic Vallet and Michel Vincent. Some days later the other members of the team reached C2. A traverse, then a direct climbing up on a steep glacier (but without any difficulty) enabled the team to meet the rock ridge behind which the French route stands. One goes up a glacier (it is magnificient). The crossing on seracs in dangerous. One gets through an almost vertical passage in a serac (a fixed rope has been installed) on to the glacier shelf in front of an enormous crevasse (15 to 20m wide), which bounds the valley. A rope system which joins the two edges of the crevasse may still be seen. (Perhaps was it left by the Spanish expedition). Installation of C2 - probable height 6000m. Michel Vincent and Mane Bahadur went down to C1. Wednesday, Oct 28th: Days rest at C1 but for one of us who stayed at BC. Thursday Oct 29th: Elisabeth Julliard, Mario Paffumi, Henri Sigayret, Frederic Vallet slept at C2. Friday, Oct 30th: Michel Vincent joins the above team. Loads were carried to the Youngster's pass. The equipment of the first part of the ridge is done, until the foot of the "Buttress Head." The ridge is sometimes overhanging but without major difficulties. Saturday, Oct 31st: C3 is installed. Frederic Vallet as head-man equipped the remaining part of the ridge toward the Buttress Head. C3 is installed just under it. Michel Vincent, Elisabeth Julliard and Henri Sigayret followed F. Vallet and all of them installed C3. Tuesday, Nov 3rd: Elisabeth Julliard, Henri Sigayret, Frederic Vallet, Michel Vincent left C2. They carried the gear for an attempt to the summit (tents, ropes, food, gas). They slept at C3. Wednesday, Nov 4th (camp 3): The four mountaineers left for C4. The Buttress Head has been reached rapidly. Then we crossed down toward the foot of the Lace Ridge. At the foot of this ridge strong blast of wind and clouds prevent the mountaineers from going up. A tent has been installed. Bivouac. Thursday, Nov 5th: The wind was less strong. We went up the Lace Ridge, then crossed the throne glacier. We climbed up the glacier until 7000m (its the foot of the ice face which leads to the ridge which is the remainder of the ascent). - In the Lace Ridge: some passages are steep and very steep - Throne Glacier: easy but tiresome. The four mountaineers are in their tent at C4. Friday, Nov 6: It has been decided to attempt to reach the summit directly from C4. Unfortunately, we go up too late. We left at about 8:30. We climbed up the ice slope where the French set up their C6 in 1962 (no fixed rope has been installed). Above this camp, at the end of the very fine ridge Elisabeth Julliard and Henri Sigayret decided to turn back. It is 2 am. They started to have frostbites. The wind was blowing strongly. We had no extra ropes. (Both roped parties used 7 mm ropes). They went down to C4 being roughly handled by the wind. Frederic Vallet and Michel Vincent went on to the summit. They came back at night and they reached C4 at 11 pm. The four mountaineers had frostbites. Saturday, Nov 7th: Frederic Vallet and Michel Vincent came down to C2. Elisabeth Julliard and Henri Sigayret slept at C3 which they cleared the following day. Sunday, Nov 8th: All the four mountaineers, the two Sherpas, Dawa and Mane, who were at C2 went down to the upper base camp. Monday, Nov 9th: All the team headed toward Ghunsa. Some Comments The Youngster's Spur: this spur would have required some extra gear, more time, and another head roped party. The route that we took: the French route of 1962 is a very difficult route; in case of bad weather it may be dangerous to turn back for a light team and if the route is not equipped properly. This route is beautiful. The only dangerous passage is situated under C2 (passage in the seracs). This passage is rather short.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Rover Treks
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449543
Year 1987
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) variant of s ridge (to 5800m)

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Elisabeth Julliard F 1946 France Climber Grenoble, Isere, France Teacher Details Other expeditions
Frederic Vallet M 1964 France Climber St. Jean de Maurienne, Savoie, France Builder Details Other expeditions
Gerard Jean Auger M 1941 France Climber Paris, France Journalist Details Other expeditions
Henri Sigayret M 1934 France Leader Grenoble, Isere, France Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Jean-Robert Lucien Grasso M 1954 France Climber - Seismologist Details Other expeditions
Marion Emmanuelle Gaillard F 1959 France Exp Doctor - Physician Details Other expeditions
Mario Paffumi M 1937 France Climber Nice, Alpes-Maritimes, France Magazine staff member Details Other expeditions
Michel Vincent M 1949 France Climber Vallon-du-Caramy, Var, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JANU87303 AAJ Sigayret, Henri - - 62:192-193 (1988) -
JANU87303 MM - - - 120:11 (Mar 1988) -
JANU87303 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198819200/Asia-Nepal-Kumbhakarna-Jannu - - -