Jannu | 1987 N Face (btw Japanese ramp and rock wall)

A France expedition to Jannu in 1987 via N Face (btw Japanese ramp and rock wall), led by Pierre Beghin. Summit reached on 25th October 1987. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 889
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JANU87302
Peak ID JANU
Year 1987
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face (btw Japanese ramp and rock wall)
Route 2 N Face (Japanese ramp)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Pierre Beghin
Sponsor Kumbhakarna French Adventure to Jannu (Kumbhakarna)
Success 1 False
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 17th
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Spain
Approach Dankuta
Basecamp Date 1987-09-23
Summit Date 1987-10-25
Summit Time 1230
Summit Days 32
Total Days 34
Termination Date 1987-10-27
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7711
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(23/09,4600m),C1(26/09,5600m),C2(29/09,6300m),Biv(08/10,6600m),xxx(11/10,6800m); Biv1(22/10,6300m),Biv2(23/10,6600m),Biv3(24/10,7300m),Smt(25/10)
Route Notes BC at north right bank of Jannu Glacier C1 at 5600m top of first pillar under N face C2 at cave (not on NZ route but near rock wall right of NZ route). First tried new route to right of New Zealand route on North Face direct to top. On 6th Oct started summit push from BC and on 8th passed 2nd serac above cave and reached 6800m, then down because "that was enough" (one tired, one sick) risk of frostbite when tired. After that changed route to try New Zealand route and Beghin and Decamp upon 21st to C1, 22nd biv at 6300m above Wall of Shadows, 23rd 6800m in crevasse below big snow slopes leading to ridge, 24th to biv on ridge at 7300m and 25th summit at 12:00 noon. Few steps on ridge, not difficult but must be very careful. Back to same biv and 26th to C1. 24th had lot wind and was quite cold. Alpine-style ascent from C1 in final summit push on altered route. Marsigny - 28 Oct 87 Attempt of central route N Face reached 6800m 11 Oct by Eric Decamp, Pierre Beghin, Marsigny. Fixed rope to 6300m to C2 (1st ice cave) Made 3 camps, 2 in ice cave 3 nights at C3 6600m Very cold so down to C2 On 11th and to BC 12th Pierre Beghin and Decamp want to try Dutch route (NZ route) (left BC 18 Oct wth 2 Dutch) - stay KTM to 4 Nov.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Sherpa Trekking Service (STS)
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449531
Year 1987
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face (btw japanese ramp and rock wall)

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Pierre Beghin M 1951 France Leader Le Sappey-en-Chartreuse, Isere, France Engineer Details Other expeditions
Erik Decamp M 1954 France Climber Le Champ-pres-Froges, Isere, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Francois Jacques Jean Marsigny M 1959 France Climber Paris, France Architectural student & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Juan Antonio Tomas Guiterrez M 1956 Spain Climber Barcelona, Spain Bank employee Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JANU87302 AAJ Beghin, Pierre - - 62:191-192 (1988) -
JANU87302 MM - - - 120:11 (Mar 1988) -
JANU87302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198819102/Asia-Nepal-Kumbhakarna-Jannu-North-Face - - -