Jannu | 1987 N Face

A Netherlands expedition to Jannu in 1987 via N Face, led by Gerard van Sprang. Summit reached on 11th October 1987. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 300
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JANU87301
Peak ID JANU
Year 1987
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Netherlands
Leaders Gerard van Sprang
Sponsor Netherlands Jannu Autumn Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 15th,16th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Hile->Charchu Khola->Jannu Glacier
Basecamp Date 1987-09-18
Summit Date 1987-10-11
Summit Time 0630
Summit Days 23
Total Days 27
Termination Date 1987-10-15
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7711
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 1300
Total Members 6
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 2
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(18/09,4600m),C1(26/09,5500m),C2(30/09,6200m),Biv1(09/10,6800m),Biv2(10/10,7250m),Smt(11,13/10)
Route Notes BC at 4600m at north side of Jannu Glacier C1 at 5500m on river, on 1st steep rock section. Oefner left Biv2 (7250m) 10-11 Oct midnight and on top 6:30 am 11th Oct, returned to Biv2 where Van Sprang was with frostbite on both feet. Other 2 summiters left Biv2 6 am 13th Oct and 1:30 pm on top, left top at 3:30 pm after making many photos and returned to Biv2 4:30 pm 11th Oct. On descent Oefner and Van Sprang bivouacked at about 6500m, 12th Oct Van Sprang and Oefner to BC. 14th Oct 11:30 am De Koning and Friele left Biv2 and 6 pm last radio contact at 8 pm as per schedule and believe were hit by avalanche sometime before 7 pm. On 15th were seen by Ferry at about 5500m at bottom of N Face; must have been avalanche because they were abseiling down and when found were not on same rope. Technically difficult: Wall of Shadows steep ice - most difficult section below C2 and same difficult rock pitches below C1. Fixed about 1300m rope (French fixed rope of first part of route).
Accidents Friele HAPE in C2; Van Sprang frostbite
Achievement 1st Dutch attempt and ascent; unclimbed route
Agency Summit Nepal Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449517
Year 1987
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ingo Doornenbal M 1956 Netherlands Exp Doctor Utrecht, Netherlands Physician Details Other expeditions
Ger Friele M 1957 Netherlands Climber Amsterdam, Netherlands Manager of outdoor equipment shop Details Other expeditions
Edmond Ignatius Oefner M 1958 Netherlands Climber Sassenheim, Netherlands Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Rudolf De Koning M 1950 Netherlands Deputy Leader Utrecht, Netherlands Teacher, deaf children Details Other expeditions
Gerard C. Van Sprang M 1956 Netherlands Leader Amsterdam, Netherlands Book publishing executive Details Other expeditions
Ferry Van Wilgenburg M 1961 Netherlands Climber Amsterdam, Netherlands Book publishing executive Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JANU87301 AAJ Van Sprang, Gerard C. - - 62:191 (1988) -
JANU87301 HJ Van Sprang, Gerard Jannu - North Face, 1987 - 44:169-170 (1986-1987) -
JANU87301 - Van Sprang, Gerard Jannu, Expeditie 1987 By expedition, Netherlands - -
JANU87301 MM - - - 119:9 (Jan 1988) -
JANU87301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198819101/Asia-Nepal-Kumbhakarna-North-Face - - -
JANU87301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/44/27/expeditions-and-notes-44/ - - -