Jannu | 1987 S Ridge

A USA expedition to Jannu in 1987 via S Ridge, led by Hooman Aprin. Summit reached on 27th April 1987. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 252
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JANU87101
Peak ID JANU
Year 1987
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Hooman Aprin
Sponsor American-British 1987 Expedition to Jannu
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries UK
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1987-04-06
Summit Date 1987-04-27
Summit Time -
Summit Days 21
Total Days 22
Termination Date 1987-04-28
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6400m due to bad weather and dwindling supplies
High Point (m) 6400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(06/04,4700m),C1(10/04,5400m),C2(21/04,5900m),Biv1(26/04,6100m),Biv2(27/04,6400m),xxx(27/04,6400m)
Route Notes BC at 1/2 hour from foot of South Face C1 at others C2 (on glacier, 1/2 hour before couloir leading to a ridge) C2 on next glacier in cirque at base of col Biv1 just below a subsidiary peak Biv2 called "Tete de Butoir." 4 members climbed alpine-style from C2 in 2 days. Then heavy snowfall and avalanche danger and route from involved long traverse under heavily loaded snow slope, so 20th April down to C2 and 1 May to BC and climb ended. Hadn't enough fuel to wait much longer for snow conditions to be safe. Aprin: C1 pitched 10th April but occupied only on 13th and again on 26th, when alpine-style attempt began. On 26th ran into technically hardest part on ridge and when ridge eased off, there was deep snow. Bivouacked that night at 6100m. 27th got to 6400m at noon and had to bivouac there. 28th down to C2. Abandoned climb on 28th said Aprin, because daily storms with much fresh snow brought serious avalanche threat. Were running out of food and fuel and weather looked like getting bad again (it did).
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Summit Nepal Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449350
Year 1987
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hooman Nmi Aprin M 1946 USA Leader Jackson, Wyoming Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Beverly Boynton F 1950 USA Climber Boston, Massachusetts Nurse Details Other expeditions
Randal R. (Randy) Harrington M 1958 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Student, physics graduate Details Other expeditions
Evan Kaplan M 1959 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Engineer, aircraft Details Other expeditions
Callum MacKay M 1945 UK Climber Wilson, Wyoming Home builder Details Other expeditions
Charles Milton Schapp M 1942 USA Climber Jackson, Wyoming Owner, manufacturing equip shop Details Other expeditions
James L. (Jim) Springer M 1955 USA Climber Teton Village, Wyoming Patrolman, ski and national park ranger Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JANU87101 AAJ Aprin, Hooman - - 62:190-191 (1988) -
JANU87101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198819000/Asia-Nepal-Kumbhakarna-Jannu-Attempt - - -