Jannu | 1986 S Ridge

A Australia expedition to Jannu in 1986 via S Ridge, led by Terry Tremble. Summit reached on 31st October 1986. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 903
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JANU86301
Peak ID JANU
Year 1986
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Australia
Leaders Terry Tremble
Sponsor Australian Army Alpine Expedition to Khumbakarna (Jannu)
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries New Zealand, UK
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-09-03
Summit Date 1986-10-31
Summit Time -
Summit Days 58
Total Days 59
Termination Date 1986-11-01
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6950m due to 1 member's death
High Point (m) 6950
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/09,4500m),C1(12/10,6100m),Biv1(28/10,6150m),Biv2(29/10,6400m),Biv3(30/10,6600m),Biv4(31/10,6950m),xxx(31/10,6950m)
Route Notes BC at 4500m at Yamatari Glacier Biv on 28 Oct at 6100m at lower plateau Biv on 29 Oct at 6400m at South Ridge Biv at 6600m at South Ridge Biv at 6900-7000m at upper plateau (French C5) High point at 6950m at French C5. Put up tent at 6100m for cache of food and gear, slept there two nights between 10 and 15th Oct. Before this it snowed and rained all the time: did some acclimatization trips in region and went up the route a bit. This tent destroyed in snowstorm 17th or 18th Oct. Recovered only few items there so descended, got more gear and made another dump at about same altitude in snow cave 20th Oct and descended immediately for rest before summit push. 23 Oct reached this place and found everything taken away by avalanche. Down again and to Ghunsa where met French Nepal Peak expedition who gave food and back up on 28th Oct. About 31 Oct all 3 members reached 6900-7000m and during that night, when planned to go for summit, Eggerton's health deteriorated: was very tired, vomiting, crying out for oxygen and water, so had to take him down. Got to 6400m where Eggerton collapsed and died. "We couldn't get him down fast enough" - died on the ropes. Body impossible to carry down so swung it over steep crevassed area and sent it down into crevasses. NZAC Bulletin (Don French) - March 1985 The expedition was called "the Australian Army Jannu Expedition." Terry Tremble, of Melbourne, was the leader with Keith Egerton, also of Melbourne, and myself as the team members. Jannu, also know as Kumbukarna, is a 7710m peak in eastern Nepal near Kangchenjunga. We each contributed approximately NZ$5000 (including flights) with the NZAC also contributing $300 to expenses. Fairydown (Australia) assisted Terry with clothing and a sleeping bag which he found excellent. The approach consisted of eleven days walking of which only two could be considered to be "leach days." We used 22 porters all being paid Rs 34 per day (one trekking party was paying Rs 100 per day). Our base camp was established in the Yamatri valley on Sept 4 1986. A total of three attempts were made on the mountain's southwest ridge (the original French route). The first was abandoned due to deteriorating weather. The second, with its superior weather, unfortunately ended when our dump, from the previous attempt, was found to be buried by an avalanche. The dump had contained our full supply of mountain food plus a few items clothing, ice hammers, stove and fuel and seventeen "Mars Bars." Fortunately we were able to intercept a passing French expedition in Ghunsa (a important village one days walk from base camp) who gave us enough mountain food for another attempt. This attempt commenced on October 26th when we climbed to the C2 site. The following day we climbed through to our neve camp at 6000m. Col des Juenes was gained then continued up to Tete du Butoir, 6450m for our third night. We experienced a lot of cornicing on this day. The fourth day saw us climb over Tete de la Dentelle and onto the edge of a plateau known as the Throne. We were confined to camp for two days here due to high winds. During a lull I was able to climb to 7000m on the summit block to establish our high point. Unfortunately Keith became ill, so on November 1st we descended. Keith died from pulmonary edema after just a few hours of descent. Keith's death was the thirteenth this autumn in the Nepal Himal. He was very well known in Australian climbing circles and by many New Zealanders who have visited the Arapiles. Keith was a member of the NZAC. With alpine/lightweight style ascents in the Himalaya you might be able to get more trips to the dollar, but this is at the sacrifice of safety and success. One has to balance these sacrifices against cost and ethics. I doubt if our expedition would have had success if other techniques were employed. Unfortunately our earlier ventures onto the mountain were hampered by poor weather, so considerable time had to be spent at base camp waiting for the monsoon to pass.
Accidents Oct 31 all 3 members reached 6900-7000m & during that night, when planned to go for summit, Eggerton's health deteriorated (was very tired, vomiting, crying out for oxygen, water)
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449171
Year 1986
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Keith Eggerton M 1956 Australia Climber Richmond, Victoria, Australia - Details Other expeditions
Donald Cameron (Don) French M 1958 New Zealand Climber Masterton, New Zealand Accountant Details Other expeditions
Terence W. (Terry) Tremble M 1958 UK Leader Melbourne, Victoria, Australia Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JANU86301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 61:222 (1987) -
JANU86301 MM - - - 113:8 (Jan 1987) -
JANU86301 NZAJ French, Don Bataille Pour la Jannu - 40:88-90 (1987) -
JANU86301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198722202/Asia-Nepal-Kumbhakarna-Jannu-Attempt-and-Tragedy - - -