Jannu | 1982 N Face

A France expedition to Jannu in 1982 via N Face, led by Pierre Beghin, Bernard Muller. Summit reached on 16th October 1982. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2035
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JANU82301
Peak ID JANU
Year 1982
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Pierre Beghin, Bernard Muller
Sponsor Expedition Jannu 1982
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Dhankuta->Ghunsa->BC
Basecamp Date 1982-09-07
Summit Date 1982-10-16
Summit Time -
Summit Days 39
Total Days 55
Termination Date 1982-11-01
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/09,4570m),C1(14/09,5540m),C2(23/09,6100m),C3(02/10,6800m),xxx(16/10,7100m)
Route Notes Beghin - 10 Nov 82 Beghin and Muller arrived this am and 2 more after 4-5 days. High point at 7100m on 16 Oct and again 23 Oct. Berhault left at beginning because did not like route's danger and perhaps not an expedition man and did not realise dimensions of Himalaya. This departure bad for expedition of 6 members and only 2 Sherpas who not interested in difficult climb in cold. Bretin left BC 24 Oct to return to his job. Big problem was very bad weather in Oct. Heavy snowfall in mid-Oct brought very deep snow and avalanches. Then LO said expedition cancelled because expedition took such long time. Perhaps could have reached summit. Did not follow Japanese route because wanted go direct. But summit wall not possible, for such small light weight team in autumn so tried to reach NE Ridge. "I have never seen such a wall in 1000m high and last 500m completely overhanging." In Sept 1-2 hours sun and in Oct no sun at all on North Face which is so very steep. No accidents, frostbite. Not dangerous; so very steep snow does not collect, rock face; some powder snow avalanche but not heavy snow. Problem: cold and steepness. Japanese route very dangerous because of seracs. Sharma, Tourism - 26 Oct 82 16 Oct reaching 7000m, because of heavy snowfall and bad weather abandoned on 23 Oct. All well. Leaving BC Nov 1. (C3 at 6800m already on 2 Oct) (1 member left early). Ale, Tourism - 10 Oct 82 Beghin and Dr. Fargeas 2 Oct pitched C3 at 6800m. C2 on 23 Sept at 6100m by Claude Beghin, Gerard Bretin and Bernard Muller. Ale, Tourism - 8 Oct 82 Member Patrick Berhault (25), with leader's approval, abandoned following dispute over too much work for him. Beghin & Bretin - 17 Aug 82 Route = North Face direct (Japanese in 1976 went via NE Ridge to North Face). Direct route = very difficult route technically. Last part 2200m very steep (perhaps vertical, no snow). Before this 1000m pillar and then flat and then 2200m face of ice and then rock (good hard granite and same gneiss rock). North Face = very cold, no sun at all (Wall of Shadows). 2 arrived 14 August and other 4 will arrive on 19 Aug. Leave KTM 2 Aug by road to Dhankuta. 15-16 days from Dhankuta to BC via Ghunsa village and Jannu Glacier on north side of Jannu. BC 4500m C1 5500m - at top of pillar C2 6300m - snow field C3 6800m - at beginning of last rocky part Biv = hanging camp on very steep upper part of face Arrive BC 7-8 Sept. Must go very fast in 1st part because on north side very cold but very difficult higher up. Hope for summit by 15 Oct. 2 Sherpas above BC to C1 only because above there too difficult. No oxygen at all. Brochure says: The most difficult wall in the world never attempted. Jean Franco: "It is one of the highest walls on earth; no one will ever come that way."
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447691
Year 1982
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Claude Beghin M 1953 France Climber Meudon, Hauts-de-Seine, France Teacher of mathematics Details Other expeditions
Pierre Beghin M 1951 France Co-Leader Le Sappey-en-Chartreuse, Isere, France Fluids engineer; expert on show avalanches Details Other expeditions
Patrick Berhault M 1957 France Climber Nice, Alpes-Maritimes, France Technical advisor for mountaineering-equipment & clothing mfr. Details Other expeditions
Gerard Bretin M 1947 France Climber Le Sappey-en-Chartreuse, Isere, France Economics teacher Details Other expeditions
Xavier Fargeas M 1952 France Exp Doctor Paris, France Physician Details Other expeditions
Bernard Roger Muller M 1952 France Co-Leader Grenoble, Isere, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JANU82301 AAJ Beghin, Pierre - - 57:219 (1983) -
JANU82301 - Beghin, Pierre Passion d'Himalayas Editions Glenat, Grenoble - B234
JANU82301 - Beghin, Pierre Les Cinq Tresors de la Grande Neige Arthaud, Paris - B233
JANU82301 MM - - - 89:12 (Jan 1983) -
JANU82301 MM - - - 90:9 (Mar 1983) -
JANU82301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198321901/Asia-Nepal-Jannu-North-Face-Attempt - - -