Jannu | 1981 W Ridge

A Japan expedition to Jannu in 1981 via W Ridge, led by Masayuki Shinohara. Summit reached on 20th October 1981. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1801
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JANU81301
Peak ID JANU
Year 1981
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Masayuki Shinohara
Sponsor Tokyo Tsuyukusa Mtn Club Jannu West Rib Expedition 1981
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Dharan->Yamatari Glacier BC
Basecamp Date 1981-09-28
Summit Date 1981-10-20
Summit Time -
Summit Days 22
Total Days 28
Termination Date 1981-10-26
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7400m due to strong winds
High Point (m) 7400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(28/09,4800m),C1(04/10,5450m),C2(10/10,5900m),C3(15/10,6200m),xxx(20/10,7400m)
Route Notes Yoshiga - 12 Nov 81 BC 4800m - 28 Sept Route = West Ridge (French route) South Ridge 5000-6000m by crevasses and seracs; climbed 3 days to 530m and then realized too difficult and dangerous for Sherpa carries, so changed to French route (West Ridge). C1 4 Oct 5450m C2 10 Oct 5900m C3 15 Oct 6200m (same camp moved each time) 2 Sherpas carried only to C1, 3 members carried above 15 Oct 6500m reached 16 Oct rested 18-20 Oct rush attack from 6200m - bivs: 18th 6780m 18 Oct strong wind, no sleep, holding everything down 19 Oct late start, reached 6820m bivouac at 11:30 am, could see no bivouac site above; again strong wind 20 Oct all 3 members leave bivouac equipment and go for top; up snow face and ridge to 7400m at 1:00 pm; late now and strong wind: 4-5 hours more to top and no bivouac equipment, so back to 6820m bivouac 21 Oct to C3 22 Oct to BC Climbing finished; enjoyed climb; no accidents, frostbite No oxygen at all with expedition. Sharma, Tourism - 26 Oct 81 Jannu West Rib abandoned Oct 21 because of strong wind. Had reached 7400m Oct 20. Leave BC between 26. 3 members led by Masayuki Shinohara. Ale, Tourism - 1 Oct 81 BC 28 Sept 4800m on south side. 1 Oct will begin climb Weather cloudy and snowing. All well Shinohara and Yoshiga - 25 Aug 81 Route = West Ridge to Czechs SW Ridge from Yamatari Col to col on West Ridge BC on Yamatari Col at 5000m C1 at col on West Ridge - 6000m C2 on West Ridge - 6800m C3 on SW Ridge - 7400m Present expeditions West Ridge is a rib which joins Czechs Ridge at about 7000m All 3 members arrived KTM 23 Aug left 5 Sept by road to Dharan. 15 or 16 days to BC. Arrive BC 20-22 Sept, summit 25 Oct. Difficult route: most difficult between C1 and C2: very steep, and between C3 and summit: also very steep. 3 Sherpas to C1 only. No oxygen at all. Tokyo Jannu West Rib Expedition 1981 420-2 Nish Kuki-shi Saitama-ken, Japan Tokyo Tsuyukusa Mountain Club
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447329
Year 1981
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Takashi Moriguchi M 1951 Japan Climber Hamakita, Shizuoka, Japan Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Masayuki Shinohara M 1946 Japan Leader Kuki, Saitama, Japan Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Shinichi Yoshiga M 1949 Japan Climber Usuki, Oita, Japan Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Soichiro Asanami M - Japan Exp Doctor - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JANU81301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 56:205 (1982) -
JANU81301 IWA - - - 88:185 (1982) -
JANU81301 IWA - - - 88:35 (1982) -
JANU81301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198220501/Asia-Nepal-Jannu-Attempt - - -