Jannu | 1981 SW Ridge
A Czechoslovakia expedition to Jannu in 1981 via SW Ridge, led by Adam Blazej. Summit reached on 23rd May 1981. 9 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1817 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | JANU81102 |
| Peak ID | JANU |
| Year | 1981 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Czechoslovakia |
| Leaders | Adam Blazej |
| Sponsor | Czechoslovak Himalayan Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 10th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Dharan->Tamur Valley |
| Basecamp Date | 1981-04-17 |
| Summit Date | 1981-05-23 |
| Summit Time | 1240 |
| Summit Days | 36 |
| Total Days | 40 |
| Termination Date | 1981-05-27 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7711 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 6 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 9 |
| Summit Members | 3 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 1 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | True |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(17/04,4400m),C1(19/04,4900m),C2(23/04,5400m),C3(01/05,5900m),C4(08/05,6400m),C5(16/05,6600m),C6(20/05,7100m),Smt(23/05) |
| Route Notes | Fr. Jannu Expedition - 18 May 83 French think Czech 1981 C5 and C6 should have been given higher altitudes; these camps, French believe, were actually at 6900-7000m and 7300m. Chudy - 11 June 81 Route = SW Ridge, same as Czechs tried 1979 (definitely not same as French 1962). Actually all [routes] go summit itself from South Face to which ridges lead. C4 to C5 long distance with 150m descent. 2 attempts from C5 to top. 2 members from C5 to site of French and Spain C5 on 19 May. 20 May to French and Spanish C6. 21st attempt to go to summit: R Galfy and Bakos reached 7500m in colouir. 20 May another party made C6 at 7300m. Bakos had fever and frostbite and went down on 22 and 23 May to BC. R Galfy stayed above. 22 May Divald and Vozarik from Czech C5 to French C6. 23 May at 5:00 am, R Galfy, Vozarik and Divald from French C6 to summit to at 12:40 pm and down to C5 (moved tent from French to C6 to French C5 at 7000m). 20 May Spanik, Chrenka and Martis started fixing rope drove Czech C6; 22nd reached well above 7500m but so tired, decided take a day's rest at Czech C5. But 23 May last day of favourable weather. Then snow covered camp and they went down instead. If not this turn in bad weather, at least 6 people [would have been] on top. Left BC 27 May. Bakos is Ok. No serious frostbite. No oxygen used at all. Galfy via Chudy - 1 April 81 North Face; if SW Ridge not being climbed by Spanish and agree, Czechs may go to SW Ridge; prefer ridge because this ridge was climbed in 1979 by Czechs but not to summit. 5 camps above BC, maybe 6th camp because top of 500m face is overhang of 20m and difficult at about 7150-7200m on this SW Ridge route. In BC 15-17 April. 1 Sherpa above BC at 4400m, then C1 will become ABC at 4800m but far from BC; this for SW Ridge. 5 weeks to scale Jannu via ridge; if must go to North Face, will follow Japanese route as far as C3, then try to make alternate route. Oxygen medical only. Leave KTM 2 April Birgunj-Biratnagar-Dharan. 1 day in Dharan; leave 4 April by road to Tamur River. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2447179 |
| Year | 1981 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | sw ridge |
Members
9 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Adam Blazej | M | 1952 | Czechoslovakia | Leader | Kezmarok, Czechoslovakia | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Laurenc Divald | M | 1945 | Czechoslovakia | Exp Doctor | Popard, Czechoslovakia | Surgeon | Details Other expeditions |
| Daniel Bakos | M | 1949 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Spisska Nova Ves, Czechoslovakia | Mining technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Ludovit Chrenka | M | 1949 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Tatranska Lomnica, Czechoslovakia | Electronics engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Oto Chudy | M | 1932 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Prague, Czechoslovakia | Flight navigator with CSA | Details Other expeditions |
| Robert Galfy | M | 1960 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Dolny Smokovec, Czechoslovakia | Student (teaching physical education) | Details Other expeditions |
| Jindrich (Jindra) Martis | M | 1952 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Tatranska Polianka, Czechoslovakia | Technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Jan Spanik | M | 1948 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Tatranska Lomnica, Czechoslovakia | Electrician | Details Other expeditions |
| Ivan Vozarik | M | 1956 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Liptovska Mikules, Czechoslovakia | Student (mining surveyor) | Details Other expeditions |
References
4 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| JANU81102 | AAJ | Blazej, Adam | - | - | 56:201-203 (1982) | - |
| JANU81102 | MM | - | - | - | 80:12 (Jul 1981) | - |
| JANU81102 | - | Piroh, Jan | Kacandzunga 8598m | Sport, Bratislava | - | - |
| JANU81102 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198220100/Asia-Nepal-Jannu-Southwest-Ridge | - | - | - |