Jannu | 1979 W Ridge

A Czechoslovakia expedition to Jannu in 1979 via W Ridge, led by Ivan Galfy. Summit reached on 16th May 1979. 18 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2099
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JANU79101
Peak ID JANU
Year 1979
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Czechoslovakia
Leaders Ivan Galfy
Sponsor Czechoslovak Himalaya Expedition 1979
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Dharan->Taplejung
Basecamp Date 1979-04-19
Summit Date 1979-05-16
Summit Time -
Summit Days 27
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 8
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7450m due to lack of food
High Point (m) 7450
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 16
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(19/04,4400m),C1(20/04,4800m),C2(23/04,5300m),C3(03/05,5800m),C4(10/05,6400m),C5(14/05,7000m),xxx(16/05,7450m)
Route Notes Galfy & Chudy route= West Ridge to NW Ridge 1st summit attempt by 4 members on 16 May and reached 7450m on face to right of West Ridge. Reached this at 2:00 pm and above 120m hard rock climbing at Grade V A. 2nd and 3rd attempts followed but also unsuccessful: 2nd because 1 member frostbitten and 3rd because very cold and strong wind. Then abandoned climbing because no more food. No accidents or serious frostbite. Only serious illness was kitchen boy Sherpa who died of TB and pneumonia. Galfy & Chudy 30 March 79 route = West (NW) Ridge = new route BC on Yamatari Glacier at 4400-4500m 10 days to BC ex-Dharan with 125 porters. Leave Bhairawa to Taplejung 3 April and established BC about 10 April. At least 5 high camps. Most difficult to reach pass at 6000-6200m - mixed rock and ice. Summit "should be" mid-May. 3 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Ang Temba (same as on Makalu). No oxygen for climbing or sleeping.
Accidents No accidents or serious frostbite; only serious illness was kitchen boy Sherpa who died of TB & pneumonia
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446439
Year 1979
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge

Members

18 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Vincent Duben M 1940 Czechoslovakia Climber Bratislava, Czechoslovakia Secondary school teacher Details Other expeditions
Adam Blazej M 1952 Czechoslovakia Climber Kezmarok, Czechoslovakia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Oto Chudy M 1932 Czechoslovakia Climber Prague, Czechoslovakia Flight navigator with CSA Details Other expeditions
Laurenc Divald M 1945 Czechoslovakia Exp Doctor Popard, Czechoslovakia Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Ivan Galfy M 1933 Czechoslovakia Leader Stary Smokovec, Czechoslovakia Head of Slovak Mountain Rescue Service Details Other expeditions
Gejza Haak M 1944 Czechoslovakia Climber Tatranska Lomnica, Czechoslovakia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ladislav Janiga M 1944 Czechoslovakia Climber Smokovec, High Tatra, Czechoslovakia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Milan Krissak M 1944 Czechoslovakia Climber Nova Lesna, Czechoslovakia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jindrich (Jindra) Martis M 1952 Czechoslovakia Climber Smokovec, High Tatra, Czechoslovakia Hotel handyman (repairs plumbing, electrical system, lift etc.) Details Other expeditions
Juraj Matusek M 1953 Czechoslovakia Climber Zilina, Czechoslovakia Engineer (officer of road-transport company) Details Other expeditions
Miroslav Pelc M 1950 Czechoslovakia Climber Napajedla, Czechoslovakia Electrician Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Petrik M 1946 Czechoslovakia Climber Spisska Nova Ves, Czechoslovakia Geologist Details Other expeditions
Jan Spanik M 1948 Czechoslovakia Climber Tatranska Lomnica, Czechoslovakia Electrician Details Other expeditions
Jan Stelbasky M 1950 Czechoslovakia Climber Svit, Czechoslovakia Hotel handyman (repairs plumbing, electrical system, etc.) Details Other expeditions
Vladimir (Vlado) Tatarka M 1945 Czechoslovakia Climber Stary Smokovec, Czechoslovakia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Juraj Weincziller M 1937 Czechoslovakia Climber Smokovec, High Tatra, Czechoslovakia Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Unknown M - Nepal Kitchen Boy - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Temba Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JANU79101 AAJ - - - 53:606 (1980) -
JANU79101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198060601/Asia-Nepal-Jannu-Attempt - - -