Jannu | 1979 W Ridge
A Czechoslovakia expedition to Jannu in 1979 via W Ridge, led by Ivan Galfy. Summit reached on 16th May 1979. 18 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2099 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | JANU79101 |
| Peak ID | JANU |
| Year | 1979 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | W Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Czechoslovakia |
| Leaders | Ivan Galfy |
| Sponsor | Czechoslovak Himalaya Expedition 1979 |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Dharan->Taplejung |
| Basecamp Date | 1979-04-19 |
| Summit Date | 1979-05-16 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 27 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 8 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 7450m due to lack of food |
| High Point (m) | 7450 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 16 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 3 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 1 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(19/04,4400m),C1(20/04,4800m),C2(23/04,5300m),C3(03/05,5800m),C4(10/05,6400m),C5(14/05,7000m),xxx(16/05,7450m) |
| Route Notes | Galfy & Chudy route= West Ridge to NW Ridge 1st summit attempt by 4 members on 16 May and reached 7450m on face to right of West Ridge. Reached this at 2:00 pm and above 120m hard rock climbing at Grade V A. 2nd and 3rd attempts followed but also unsuccessful: 2nd because 1 member frostbitten and 3rd because very cold and strong wind. Then abandoned climbing because no more food. No accidents or serious frostbite. Only serious illness was kitchen boy Sherpa who died of TB and pneumonia. Galfy & Chudy 30 March 79 route = West (NW) Ridge = new route BC on Yamatari Glacier at 4400-4500m 10 days to BC ex-Dharan with 125 porters. Leave Bhairawa to Taplejung 3 April and established BC about 10 April. At least 5 high camps. Most difficult to reach pass at 6000-6200m - mixed rock and ice. Summit "should be" mid-May. 3 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Ang Temba (same as on Makalu). No oxygen for climbing or sleeping. |
| Accidents | No accidents or serious frostbite; only serious illness was kitchen boy Sherpa who died of TB & pneumonia |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | False |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2446439 |
| Year | 1979 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | w ridge |
Members
18 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Vincent Duben | M | 1940 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Bratislava, Czechoslovakia | Secondary school teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Adam Blazej | M | 1952 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Kezmarok, Czechoslovakia | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Oto Chudy | M | 1932 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Prague, Czechoslovakia | Flight navigator with CSA | Details Other expeditions |
| Laurenc Divald | M | 1945 | Czechoslovakia | Exp Doctor | Popard, Czechoslovakia | Surgeon | Details Other expeditions |
| Ivan Galfy | M | 1933 | Czechoslovakia | Leader | Stary Smokovec, Czechoslovakia | Head of Slovak Mountain Rescue Service | Details Other expeditions |
| Gejza Haak | M | 1944 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Tatranska Lomnica, Czechoslovakia | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Ladislav Janiga | M | 1944 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Smokovec, High Tatra, Czechoslovakia | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Milan Krissak | M | 1944 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Nova Lesna, Czechoslovakia | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Jindrich (Jindra) Martis | M | 1952 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Smokovec, High Tatra, Czechoslovakia | Hotel handyman (repairs plumbing, electrical system, lift etc.) | Details Other expeditions |
| Juraj Matusek | M | 1953 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Zilina, Czechoslovakia | Engineer (officer of road-transport company) | Details Other expeditions |
| Miroslav Pelc | M | 1950 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Napajedla, Czechoslovakia | Electrician | Details Other expeditions |
| Vladimir Petrik | M | 1946 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Spisska Nova Ves, Czechoslovakia | Geologist | Details Other expeditions |
| Jan Spanik | M | 1948 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Tatranska Lomnica, Czechoslovakia | Electrician | Details Other expeditions |
| Jan Stelbasky | M | 1950 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Svit, Czechoslovakia | Hotel handyman (repairs plumbing, electrical system, etc.) | Details Other expeditions |
| Vladimir (Vlado) Tatarka | M | 1945 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Stary Smokovec, Czechoslovakia | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Juraj Weincziller | M | 1937 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Smokovec, High Tatra, Czechoslovakia | Cameraman | Details Other expeditions |
| Unknown | M | - | Nepal | Kitchen Boy | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Temba Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Sirdar | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
2 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| JANU79101 | AAJ | - | - | - | 53:606 (1980) | - |
| JANU79101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198060601/Asia-Nepal-Jannu-Attempt | - | - | - |