Jannu | 1976 NE Ridge-N Face
A Japan expedition to Jannu in 1976 via NE Ridge-N Face, led by Masatsugu Konishi. Summit reached on 11th May 1976. 21 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2205 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | JANU76101 |
| Peak ID | JANU |
| Year | 1976 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | NE Ridge-N Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Masatsugu Konishi |
| Sponsor | Sangaku Doshikai Jannu Expedition 1976 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 4th-7th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Dharan->Ghunsa-Jannu Glacier (BC) |
| Basecamp Date | 1976-03-15 |
| Summit Date | 1976-05-11 |
| Summit Time | 1530 |
| Summit Days | 57 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7711 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 6 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 17 |
| Summit Members | 13 |
| Member Deaths | 1 |
| Total Hired | 11 |
| Summit Hired | 3 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(15/03,4500m),C1(21/03,5050m),C2(26/03,5500m),C3(11/04,6200m),C4(17/04,6500m),C5(25/04,7150m),C6(09/05,7400m),Smt(11-14/05) |
| Route Notes | Konishi - 13 June 76 Same route as New Zealand route. From C2 to C3 could see New Zealand ropes, but not safe to use. Other New Zealand rope not found: snow avalanche area and probably taken away. C2 -> C3 most difficult part of climb. Vertical rock with very hard blue ice between C3 and C4 found New Zealand campsite. Used very different campsites because snow conditions different autumn and spring. From C6 to summit also very difficult. 1st party put in fixed ropes so not difficult for other parties. 6750m fixed rope total used - 155 pitches. No oxygen. Had experienced team with enough members to rotate lead climbing and resting. New Zealand ropes showed route. MB Pandey, MFA - 18 May 76 3rd group to summit 31 Baisakh = 13 May 1) Toshio Yakigama 2) Seichikana Mura 3) Kuyani Kawakami MB Pandey, MFA - 16 May 76 Summit on Baisakh 30 = 12 May: Leader Konishi, Kazuyoshi Kono, Masaru Samba and 2 Sherpas Pemba Tsering and Phurba Sherpa. Still more members will attempt summit. Sakashita - 16 Feb 76 We can succeed because we very strong with much experience in Himalayas. "Japanese route little steep but near top (= near summit when reached top of ridge) not so difficult, but perhaps this route has avalanches dangers, then we change to New Zealand route." Sakashita - 11 Feb 76 Ogawa 1973 recce and others 1975 recce. Route slightly to right of New Zealand planned route up (via snowfield not ridge) to ridge and thence right on ridge. Advance team Ogawa, Oki and 3 members in Nepal arrive 23 Dec. Keiichi Oki went to Khumbu for trekking [and fast acclimatization] and finding oxygen cylinders for expedition. Oki flew KTM/SYB 27 Jan, Namche all day 28 Jan, on 29 Jan he and 2 friends went to Thyangboche and 3 Jan reached Pheriche. 31 Jan climbed a peak 5000m east of Pheriche and returned to Pheriche at 15:00 hrs. 1 Feb became unconscious 15:00 hrs. 2 Feb died at Pheriche 17:45 hrs due high altitude sickness. Body brought to KTM (now at USAID) and will be cremated 13th. Main party arrive 12th RNAC from BKK. Expedition leave KTM by bus to Dharan (baggage in Dharan now mostly came by sea) soon as possible after 12th ceremony at THT 7 pm - maybe 17th. Leave Dharan about 20 or 21 Feb after collecting 300 porters. Arrive BC after 18 days at about 4800m (higher then New Zealand), 10-12 March. C1 - 5300m in icefall C2 - 5700m C3 - 6200m on face C4 - 6700m on face C5 - 7200m on ridge C6 - 7400m on ridge Hope reach summit 1 May 10 Sherpas and 1 sirdar Karma Sherpa. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT) |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2445336 |
| Year | 1976 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | ne ridge-n face |
Members
21 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Toshio Akiyama | M | 1951 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Driver-salesman for firm selling alcholic beverages | Details Other expeditions |
| Ryoichi Fukada | M | 1942 | Japan | Deputy Leader | Tokyo, Japan | Commercial artist | Details Other expeditions |
| Toshio Johu | M | 1950 | Japan | Climber | Yamato-cho, Saitama, Japan | Honda motor-cycle factory worker | Details Other expeditions |
| Kazushi Katahira | M | - | Japan | Climber | Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan | Iron foundry salesman | Details Other expeditions |
| Kiyomi Kawakami | M | 1948 | Japan | Climber | Narashino, Chiba, Japan | Taxi driver | Details Other expeditions |
| Seiichi Kawamura | M | 1948 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Truck driver | Details Other expeditions |
| Masatsugu Konishi | M | 1938 | Japan | Leader | Kamakura, Kanagawa, Japan | Staff member, mountaineering-equipment manufacturing & sales | Details Other expeditions |
| Kazuyoshi Kono | M | 1946 | Japan | Climber | Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan | Engineer in Japan Iron Co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Nobuyuki Ogawa | M | 1944 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Printing engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Toshitaka Sakano | M | 1944 | Japan | Exp Doctor | Tokyo, Japan | Physician (advanced studies at University of Tokyo College) | Details Other expeditions |
| Naoe Sakashita | M | 1947 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Student of Asian history, Waseda University | Details Other expeditions |
| Masaru Samba | M | 1942 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Staff member, mountaineering-equipment manufacturing & sales | Details Other expeditions |
| Senya Sumiyoshi | M | 1926 | Japan | Exp Doctor | Shodoshima Island, Setouchi Sea, Japan | Physician on island's hospital staff | Details Other expeditions |
| Shomi Suzuki | M | 1953 | Japan | Climber | Yokohama, Japan | Draftsman | Details Other expeditions |
| Koji Takeda | M | 1951 | Japan | Climber | Higashi-Kurume, Tokyo, Japan | Truck driver | Details Other expeditions |
| Kazuo Yuda | M | 1948 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Carpenter | Details Other expeditions |
| Phurba Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pemba Tshering Sherpa | M | 1943 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Thamo, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Gelgen Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Keiichi Oki | M | - | Japan | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Karma Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Sirdar | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
7 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| JANU76101 | AAJ | - | - | - | 51:237 (1977) | - |
| JANU76101 | JAC | Konishi, Masatsugu | Jannu North Face 1976 | - | 71-72:6-7 (1976-77) | - |
| JANU76101 | MM | - | - | - | 51:11 (Sep 1976) | - |
| JANU76101 | - | Konishi, Masatsugu | Jannu North Wall | Hakusui-sha, Tokyo | - | jK312 |
| JANU76101 | JAC | Konishi, Masatsugu | Jannu North Face 1976 | - | 71-72:40-49 (1976-77) | - |
| JANU76101 | IWA | - | - | - | 55:150-149 (1977) | - |
| JANU76101 | IWA | - | - | - | 55:30-31 (1977) | - |