Jannu | 1976 NE Ridge-N Face

A Japan expedition to Jannu in 1976 via NE Ridge-N Face, led by Masatsugu Konishi. Summit reached on 11th May 1976. 21 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2205
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JANU76101
Peak ID JANU
Year 1976
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge-N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Masatsugu Konishi
Sponsor Sangaku Doshikai Jannu Expedition 1976
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 4th-7th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Dharan->Ghunsa-Jannu Glacier (BC)
Basecamp Date 1976-03-15
Summit Date 1976-05-11
Summit Time 1530
Summit Days 57
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7711
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 17
Summit Members 13
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 11
Summit Hired 3
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(15/03,4500m),C1(21/03,5050m),C2(26/03,5500m),C3(11/04,6200m),C4(17/04,6500m),C5(25/04,7150m),C6(09/05,7400m),Smt(11-14/05)
Route Notes Konishi - 13 June 76 Same route as New Zealand route. From C2 to C3 could see New Zealand ropes, but not safe to use. Other New Zealand rope not found: snow avalanche area and probably taken away. C2 -> C3 most difficult part of climb. Vertical rock with very hard blue ice between C3 and C4 found New Zealand campsite. Used very different campsites because snow conditions different autumn and spring. From C6 to summit also very difficult. 1st party put in fixed ropes so not difficult for other parties. 6750m fixed rope total used - 155 pitches. No oxygen. Had experienced team with enough members to rotate lead climbing and resting. New Zealand ropes showed route. MB Pandey, MFA - 18 May 76 3rd group to summit 31 Baisakh = 13 May 1) Toshio Yakigama 2) Seichikana Mura 3) Kuyani Kawakami MB Pandey, MFA - 16 May 76 Summit on Baisakh 30 = 12 May: Leader Konishi, Kazuyoshi Kono, Masaru Samba and 2 Sherpas Pemba Tsering and Phurba Sherpa. Still more members will attempt summit. Sakashita - 16 Feb 76 We can succeed because we very strong with much experience in Himalayas. "Japanese route little steep but near top (= near summit when reached top of ridge) not so difficult, but perhaps this route has avalanches dangers, then we change to New Zealand route." Sakashita - 11 Feb 76 Ogawa 1973 recce and others 1975 recce. Route slightly to right of New Zealand planned route up (via snowfield not ridge) to ridge and thence right on ridge. Advance team Ogawa, Oki and 3 members in Nepal arrive 23 Dec. Keiichi Oki went to Khumbu for trekking [and fast acclimatization] and finding oxygen cylinders for expedition. Oki flew KTM/SYB 27 Jan, Namche all day 28 Jan, on 29 Jan he and 2 friends went to Thyangboche and 3 Jan reached Pheriche. 31 Jan climbed a peak 5000m east of Pheriche and returned to Pheriche at 15:00 hrs. 1 Feb became unconscious 15:00 hrs. 2 Feb died at Pheriche 17:45 hrs due high altitude sickness. Body brought to KTM (now at USAID) and will be cremated 13th. Main party arrive 12th RNAC from BKK. Expedition leave KTM by bus to Dharan (baggage in Dharan now mostly came by sea) soon as possible after 12th ceremony at THT 7 pm - maybe 17th. Leave Dharan about 20 or 21 Feb after collecting 300 porters. Arrive BC after 18 days at about 4800m (higher then New Zealand), 10-12 March. C1 - 5300m in icefall C2 - 5700m C3 - 6200m on face C4 - 6700m on face C5 - 7200m on ridge C6 - 7400m on ridge Hope reach summit 1 May 10 Sherpas and 1 sirdar Karma Sherpa.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2445336
Year 1976
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge-n face

Members

21 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Toshio Akiyama M 1951 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Driver-salesman for firm selling alcholic beverages Details Other expeditions
Ryoichi Fukada M 1942 Japan Deputy Leader Tokyo, Japan Commercial artist Details Other expeditions
Toshio Johu M 1950 Japan Climber Yamato-cho, Saitama, Japan Honda motor-cycle factory worker Details Other expeditions
Kazushi Katahira M - Japan Climber Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan Iron foundry salesman Details Other expeditions
Kiyomi Kawakami M 1948 Japan Climber Narashino, Chiba, Japan Taxi driver Details Other expeditions
Seiichi Kawamura M 1948 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Truck driver Details Other expeditions
Masatsugu Konishi M 1938 Japan Leader Kamakura, Kanagawa, Japan Staff member, mountaineering-equipment manufacturing & sales Details Other expeditions
Kazuyoshi Kono M 1946 Japan Climber Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan Engineer in Japan Iron Co. Details Other expeditions
Nobuyuki Ogawa M 1944 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Printing engineer Details Other expeditions
Toshitaka Sakano M 1944 Japan Exp Doctor Tokyo, Japan Physician (advanced studies at University of Tokyo College) Details Other expeditions
Naoe Sakashita M 1947 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Student of Asian history, Waseda University Details Other expeditions
Masaru Samba M 1942 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Staff member, mountaineering-equipment manufacturing & sales Details Other expeditions
Senya Sumiyoshi M 1926 Japan Exp Doctor Shodoshima Island, Setouchi Sea, Japan Physician on island's hospital staff Details Other expeditions
Shomi Suzuki M 1953 Japan Climber Yokohama, Japan Draftsman Details Other expeditions
Koji Takeda M 1951 Japan Climber Higashi-Kurume, Tokyo, Japan Truck driver Details Other expeditions
Kazuo Yuda M 1948 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Phurba Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Tshering Sherpa M 1943 Nepal H-A Worker Thamo, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Gelgen Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Keiichi Oki M - Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Karma Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JANU76101 AAJ - - - 51:237 (1977) -
JANU76101 JAC Konishi, Masatsugu Jannu North Face 1976 - 71-72:6-7 (1976-77) -
JANU76101 MM - - - 51:11 (Sep 1976) -
JANU76101 - Konishi, Masatsugu Jannu North Wall Hakusui-sha, Tokyo - jK312
JANU76101 JAC Konishi, Masatsugu Jannu North Face 1976 - 71-72:40-49 (1976-77) -
JANU76101 IWA - - - 55:150-149 (1977) -
JANU76101 IWA - - - 55:30-31 (1977) -