Jannu | 1974 S Ridge
A Japan expedition to Jannu in 1974 via S Ridge, led by Mikio Kawase. Summit reached on 18th May 1974. 12 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2328 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | JANU74101 |
| Peak ID | JANU |
| Year | 1974 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Mikio Kawase |
| Sponsor | Seijo University Jannu Expedition 1974 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 3rd |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Dharan->Ghunsa |
| Basecamp Date | 1974-03-19 |
| Summit Date | 1974-05-18 |
| Summit Time | 1705 |
| Summit Days | 60 |
| Total Days | 66 |
| Termination Date | 1974-05-24 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7711 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 6 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 9 |
| Summit Members | 2 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 14 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(19/03),C1(24/03,4800m),C2(28/03,5000m),C3(06/04,6000m),C4(20/04,6400m),C5(05/05,6900m),C6(15/05,7150m),Smt(18/05) |
| Route Notes | 23 April sirdar injured and evacuated to KTM. 2nd Sirdar injured 8 May. Naganuma ill, evacuated to KTM 21 May (Naganuma walked but wanted sit). Sick suddenly at C4 1 May and stayed 3 days there and then C3 2 days and then down. Helicopter brought him from BC today. Ichikawa and Obara summited 5:05 pm 18 May and C6 10:50 pm; started 5 am. Ichikawa slight frostbite, now in BC with all members yesterday. 2nd attack planned, but bad weather so abandoned. Leave BC 24 May and reach KTM 7 June via Biratnagar. Same route as French. No Japanese accidents, not yet. MP Khanal, MFA - 20 May 74 18 May summit, 5:05 pm: 1) Ichikawa 2) Soji Obara Left C6 at 5 am, 7150m and returned to C6 at 10:45 pm. Takeshi Naganuma is seriously ill from 10 May, undergoing treatment at BC and helicopter requested. MP Khanal, MFA - 13 May 74 C5 on 5 May 6900m; scheduled C6 by 9 May and attempts before 13 May if weather good. 2 members [Miyazaki and Azuma] and 2 Sherpas [Ang Phurba and Tenzing] swept 150 feet by avalanche on 8 May 11 pm from C5. 2nd sirdar Tenzing badly injured while others minor. Now sudden bad weather and continous snowfall progress as per earlier plan impossible. MP Khanal, MFA - 26 April 74 Accident: Sirdar Karma fell into 25m deep crevasse 23 April, 6:30 am while going from C3 to C4. Seriouly injured, helicopter requested; to leave 12 noon to BC at Dudh Pokhari, 2 miles from Ghunsa village. Kawase, Hashimura & Obara - 27 Feb 74 Tomorrow all leave by bus and truck to Dharan. 2-3 days to Dharan. Caravan starts 3 or 4 March and takes about 16 days to 20th base camp. If crevasse don't prevent, will use 1962 French route. Summit day 5 May (in Japan is holiday for boys). Hope put all members on summit in 3 parties (perhaps not Dr. although climber but maybe stays in C3). Mikio Kawase, Tokyo - 22 Feb 74 Seijo Univ Jannu Expedition 1974 7 today - total 9. Leave KTM after 7 days to Biratnagar by truck, 1-1/2 days Caravan starts 3 March, 2 weeks to BC at 4500m on Yamatari Glacier. 20 March start climbing. 6 high camps, C6 at 7300m. Route: maybe both French expedition route via Yamatari Glacier and South Ridge. Summit about 5 May, hope all members summit. 14 Sherpas and 6 local porters. C3 to C4 and C6 to top difficult because very steep C3-C4 and ice board and overhang C6 -> summit. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2444610 |
| Year | 1974 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | s ridge |
Members
12 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mikio Kawase | M | - | Japan | Leader | Tokyo, Japan | President, Kawase Irons Works Inc. | Details Other expeditions |
| Yukihiro Ichikawa | M | 1947 | Japan | Deputy Leader | Hanno, Saitama, Japan | Staff member, Saitama Bank | Details Other expeditions |
| Kazutoyo Hashimura | M | - | Japan | Deputy Leader | Tokyo, Japan | Department manager (Toray Silicone Co.) | Details Other expeditions |
| Eigi Yamada | M | - | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Director of Seiko Trading Co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Takeshi Naganuma | M | - | Japan | Climber | Shizuoka-shi, Shizuoka, Japan | Branch manager of Nihon Life Insurance | Details Other expeditions |
| Jun Miyazaki | M | - | Japan | Climber | Gunma-ken, Japan | Manager of Manza Prince Hotel | Details Other expeditions |
| Sumio Azuma | M | - | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Staff member, Nichido Fire & Marine Insurance Co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Soji Obara | M | - | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Seijo University student | Details Other expeditions |
| Koichiro Ohara | M | - | Japan | Exp Doctor | - | Surgeon at Central Hospital of Japan Defence Air Force | Details Other expeditions |
| Shree Karma Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Sirdar | Taktod | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Tenzing Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Sirdar | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Phurba Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
6 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| JANU74101 | AAJ | Hashimura, Kazutoyo | - | - | 49:193-194 (1975) | - |
| JANU74101 | JAC | Hashimura, Kazutoyo | Jannu, Old and New - The Second Ascent in Premonsoon 1974 | - | 69:11-21 (1974) | - |
| JANU74101 | MM | - | - | - | 37:10 (Jul 1974) | - |
| JANU74101 | JAC | Hashimura, Kazutoyo | Jannu, Old and New - The Second Ascent in Premonsoon 1974 | - | 69:51-87 (1974) | - |
| JANU74101 | IWA | - | - | - | 42:24-25 (1975) | - |
| JANU74101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197519302/Asia-Nepal-Jannu | - | - | - |