Jannu | 1974 S Ridge

A Japan expedition to Jannu in 1974 via S Ridge, led by Mikio Kawase. Summit reached on 18th May 1974. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2328
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JANU74101
Peak ID JANU
Year 1974
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Mikio Kawase
Sponsor Seijo University Jannu Expedition 1974
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 3rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Dharan->Ghunsa
Basecamp Date 1974-03-19
Summit Date 1974-05-18
Summit Time 1705
Summit Days 60
Total Days 66
Termination Date 1974-05-24
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7711
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 14
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(19/03),C1(24/03,4800m),C2(28/03,5000m),C3(06/04,6000m),C4(20/04,6400m),C5(05/05,6900m),C6(15/05,7150m),Smt(18/05)
Route Notes 23 April sirdar injured and evacuated to KTM. 2nd Sirdar injured 8 May. Naganuma ill, evacuated to KTM 21 May (Naganuma walked but wanted sit). Sick suddenly at C4 1 May and stayed 3 days there and then C3 2 days and then down. Helicopter brought him from BC today. Ichikawa and Obara summited 5:05 pm 18 May and C6 10:50 pm; started 5 am. Ichikawa slight frostbite, now in BC with all members yesterday. 2nd attack planned, but bad weather so abandoned. Leave BC 24 May and reach KTM 7 June via Biratnagar. Same route as French. No Japanese accidents, not yet. MP Khanal, MFA - 20 May 74 18 May summit, 5:05 pm: 1) Ichikawa 2) Soji Obara Left C6 at 5 am, 7150m and returned to C6 at 10:45 pm. Takeshi Naganuma is seriously ill from 10 May, undergoing treatment at BC and helicopter requested. MP Khanal, MFA - 13 May 74 C5 on 5 May 6900m; scheduled C6 by 9 May and attempts before 13 May if weather good. 2 members [Miyazaki and Azuma] and 2 Sherpas [Ang Phurba and Tenzing] swept 150 feet by avalanche on 8 May 11 pm from C5. 2nd sirdar Tenzing badly injured while others minor. Now sudden bad weather and continous snowfall progress as per earlier plan impossible. MP Khanal, MFA - 26 April 74 Accident: Sirdar Karma fell into 25m deep crevasse 23 April, 6:30 am while going from C3 to C4. Seriouly injured, helicopter requested; to leave 12 noon to BC at Dudh Pokhari, 2 miles from Ghunsa village. Kawase, Hashimura & Obara - 27 Feb 74 Tomorrow all leave by bus and truck to Dharan. 2-3 days to Dharan. Caravan starts 3 or 4 March and takes about 16 days to 20th base camp. If crevasse don't prevent, will use 1962 French route. Summit day 5 May (in Japan is holiday for boys). Hope put all members on summit in 3 parties (perhaps not Dr. although climber but maybe stays in C3). Mikio Kawase, Tokyo - 22 Feb 74 Seijo Univ Jannu Expedition 1974 7 today - total 9. Leave KTM after 7 days to Biratnagar by truck, 1-1/2 days Caravan starts 3 March, 2 weeks to BC at 4500m on Yamatari Glacier. 20 March start climbing. 6 high camps, C6 at 7300m. Route: maybe both French expedition route via Yamatari Glacier and South Ridge. Summit about 5 May, hope all members summit. 14 Sherpas and 6 local porters. C3 to C4 and C6 to top difficult because very steep C3-C4 and ice board and overhang C6 -> summit.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2444610
Year 1974
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Mikio Kawase M - Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan President, Kawase Irons Works Inc. Details Other expeditions
Yukihiro Ichikawa M 1947 Japan Deputy Leader Hanno, Saitama, Japan Staff member, Saitama Bank Details Other expeditions
Kazutoyo Hashimura M - Japan Deputy Leader Tokyo, Japan Department manager (Toray Silicone Co.) Details Other expeditions
Eigi Yamada M - Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Director of Seiko Trading Co. Details Other expeditions
Takeshi Naganuma M - Japan Climber Shizuoka-shi, Shizuoka, Japan Branch manager of Nihon Life Insurance Details Other expeditions
Jun Miyazaki M - Japan Climber Gunma-ken, Japan Manager of Manza Prince Hotel Details Other expeditions
Sumio Azuma M - Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Staff member, Nichido Fire & Marine Insurance Co. Details Other expeditions
Soji Obara M - Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Seijo University student Details Other expeditions
Koichiro Ohara M - Japan Exp Doctor - Surgeon at Central Hospital of Japan Defence Air Force Details Other expeditions
Shree Karma Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Taktod - Details Other expeditions
Tenzing Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Phurba Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JANU74101 AAJ Hashimura, Kazutoyo - - 49:193-194 (1975) -
JANU74101 JAC Hashimura, Kazutoyo Jannu, Old and New - The Second Ascent in Premonsoon 1974 - 69:11-21 (1974) -
JANU74101 MM - - - 37:10 (Jul 1974) -
JANU74101 JAC Hashimura, Kazutoyo Jannu, Old and New - The Second Ascent in Premonsoon 1974 - 69:51-87 (1974) -
JANU74101 IWA - - - 42:24-25 (1975) -
JANU74101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197519302/Asia-Nepal-Jannu - - -