Jannu | 2023 N Face

A USA expedition to Jannu in 2023 via N Face, led by Matthew Cornell. Summit reached on 12th October 2023. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 11259
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JANU23301
Peak ID JANU
Year 2023
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Matthew Cornell
Sponsor American Khumbhakarna (Jannu) Expedition 2023
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach By Jeep to Taplejung and farther, trekked to BC
Basecamp Date 2023-09-17
Summit Date 2023-10-12
Summit Time 1620
Summit Days 25
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7711
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted N Face of Jannu East (by Garnder and Hennessey)
Campsites BC(17/09,4700m),Biv1(06/10,5800m),Biv2(07/10,6700m),Biv3(08/10,7100m),Biv4(09/10,7450m),Biv5(10/10,7400m),Smt(12/10)
Route Notes Approach: Jeep to Taplejung, another jeep to end of the road. Then one week of trekking to BC. BC 17/09 4700m Biv1 06/10 5800m Biv2 07/10 6700m Biv3 08/10 7100m Biv4 09/10 7250m Biv5 10/10 7400m Smt 12/10 by Rousseau, Marvell, Cornell at 4:20 pm. They had acclimatized on a 6000m hill behind BC. Did two rounds of a 3- day schedule hiking and sleeping at 6000m. Team started from highest bivy for the summit at between 7-8 am on 12/10. All bivouacs on portal ledges. The weather was fair, sunny on the summit. On the summit at 4:20 pm. Stayed on the top for 5 minutes and took some selfies. Then down to Biv 5 for the night which they reached at 10 pm. Next day all the way down to BC. They rappeled down the same way as ascent. Reached BC around midnight. Crux of the route: entire headwall from approx. 7000m to the top. Classification: M7, AI5+, A0. Route name: Round Trip Ticket Members at end: 3 Oxygen: not taken, not used Accidents: Rousseau and Marvell both frostbite grade 2-3 on three fingers. Left BC on: 15/10 by helicopter from BC to Kathmandu. The other American team of Michael Gardner and Sam Hennessey planned to attempt the N Face of Jannu East (no details available).
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Grand Himalaya Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2463468
Year 2023
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Matthew Alexander Cornell M 1994 USA Leader Grand Rapids, Michigan Sponsored athlete Details Other expeditions
Michael Orion Gardner M 1991 USA Climber Ridgeway, Colorado Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Samuel William (Sam) Hennessey M 1989 USA Climber Bozeman, Montana Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jackson Miller Marvell M 1996 USA Climber Provo, Utah - Details Other expeditions
Alan Patrick Rousseau M 1986 USA Climber New London, Connecticut Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JANU23301 - - https://explorersweb.com/americans-jannu/ - - -
JANU23301 - - https://explorersweb.com/jannu-climbers-rousseau-and-cornell-recovering-in-hospital/ - - -
JANU23301 - - https://explorersweb.com/jannu-north-face/ - - -
JANU23301 ALP Rousseau, Alan Three Years for Seven Days on Jannu - 85:26-38 (2004) -
JANU23301 AAJ Marvell, Jackson Jannu's North Face - 98:10-23 (2024) -
JANU23301 - - https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216853 - - -