Jannu | 2019 E Face (up); SE Ridge (down)

A Russia expedition to Jannu in 2019 via E Face (up); SE Ridge (down), led by Sergei Nilov. Summit reached on 28th March 2019. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 11375
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JANU19101
Peak ID JANU
Year 2019
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Face (up); SE Ridge (down)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Russia
Leaders Sergei Nilov
Sponsor Russian Jannu East Face Expedition 2019
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Poland
Approach By heli to Ghunsa
Basecamp Date 2019-03-11
Summit Date 2019-03-28
Summit Time -
Summit Days 17
Total Days 23
Termination Date 2019-04-03
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7412m due to route conditions & difficulties, supplies, fatigue
High Point (m) 7412
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 17
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(11/03,4800m),Biv1...Biv13,xxx(28/03,7412m),Biv14...Biv17,BC(02/04,4900m)
Route Notes BC 4800m 11/03 (on the Yalung Glacier to Yalung BC) Biv1 5100m 15/03 Biv2 5400m 16/03 Biv3 5600m 17/03 Biv4 6100m 18/03 Biv5 6300m 20/03 Biv6 6450m 21/03 Biv7 6510m 22/03 Biv8 6670m 23/03 Biv9 6900m 24/03 Biv10 7000m 25/03 Biv11 7070m 26/03 Biv12 7100m 27/03 HPt 7412m 28/03 by Golovchenko and Nilov On the descent via SE Ridge Biv13 7360m 28/03 Biv14 6995m 29/03 Biv15 6511m 30/03 Biv16 6050m 31/03 Biv17 5700m 01/04 BC 4900m 02/04 (on the other side) Up to 6100m quite difficult glacier with many crevasses. Route finding difficult. Lot of snow. On the route weather bad, stormy, avalanches. New snow slid off. The climb was in deep snow. They climbed alpine style, no fixed ropes. Route gradually got steeper from about 60 degrees above the glacier to about 90 degrees closer to the ridge. Team decided to abandon climb on 27/03 when they were at 7100m. However, as they thought the descent via the E Face would be too dangerous due to avalanches, they decided to go down via the SE Ridge, for that they had to reach their high point of 7412m. The SE Ridge was not too bad for avalanches and they down climbed. The first three days of the descent they had good visibility, but from day 4 visibility was less than 50 metres and route finding was hard. The had radio contact to BC (BC moved over to the SE side). They descended via the Jeunes (youth) Glacier to reach their new BC. They left BC on 03/04 and walked to Ghunsa in one day. Then one more day of trekking and then jeep to Taplejung and Bhadrapur. From there flight to Kathmandu. Tomaszewski reached 5100m on 15/03. He abandoned the climb due its difficulty and he also had an infected leg due to a tick bite. He helicoptered out of BC on 23/03. Buffer Peak (6532m) Tete de la Dentele Climb abandoned on: 27/03 conditions, difficulties, supplies, fatigue. Oxygen: Not taken, not used
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Dream Himalaya Adventures
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2460680
Year 2019
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e face (up); se ridge (down)

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Sergei Nilov M 1977 Russia Leader Odintsovo, Russia Rope-access worker Details Other expeditions
Dmitry Golovchenko M 1983 Russia Climber Korolev, Russia Statistician Details Other expeditions
Marcin Daniel Tomaszewski M 1975 Poland Climber Szclecin, Poland Professional alpnist Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JANU19101 - - https://www.risk.ru/blog/216316 - - -
JANU19101 AAJ Golovkhenko, Dmitry Unfinished Symphony, Thirteen Days Up the East Face of Jannu - 94:304-307 (2020) -
JANU19101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215532 - - -