Jannu | 2007 N Face

A Spain expedition to Jannu in 2007 via N Face, led by Jordi Tosas. Summit reached on 23rd September 2007. 1 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5890
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JANU07301
Peak ID JANU
Year 2007
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Jordi Tosas
Sponsor Spanish Jannu
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Basantapuri->Ghunsa
Basecamp Date 2007-09-22
Summit Date 2007-09-23
Summit Time -
Summit Days 1
Total Days 5
Termination Date 2007-09-27
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6900m due to avalanche danger
High Point (m) 6900
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(22/09,4500m),xxx(23/09,6900m)
Route Notes Tosas started from BC at midnight in the 1st part of the wall he climbed via the seracs as it seemed faster than the rock. Just before the glacier plateau he climbed the wall, which was quite tricky as there was a lot of snow on the wall. Up to 6000m the snow was safe; however from there the snow was deep and loose. Tosas started to feel tired. When he arrived at the couloir just behind serac of Japanese route he felt that avalanche danger was getting too high. He climbed to the other side of the wall and reached the Japanese route. He followed the ridge for a while but decided to go down at other side of the black pillar behind the ridge. He descended the route which is described as Wall of Shadows. It's the ridge which divides the wall. Tosas thinks it is safer than the big central slope. He did two abseils in the serac and one in the lower part. Tosas does not know about the route that was taken by an Australian/New Zealand expedition, led by Athol Whimp, in spring 2000. However, I emailed emailed him a picture posted on www.snownature.com and he said this was the line he climbed. Jordi Tosas on Jannu in Sept 2007 (comments by Valeri Babanov - 2 Nov 2007) Babanov knew about Tosas's solo climb; Tosas told him about his route and other details of his attempt before Babanov came to Nepal for his own Jannu climb. Now that he has climbed the north side of Jannu himself, Babanov says "it is not possible" to climb the Tosas route. There was a lot of snow on the Tosas route; Tosas said it took him 2 hours to climb from the Khumbhakarna Glacier to the bottom of the North Face, but it took Babanov and Kofanov half a day to break trail here. "He's a good man, a good climber, but ..." Another problem with Tosas's account is that in his descent via the Japanese route, towards the bottom, there are many big crevasses across the line he took. How high does Babanov think Tosas reached? "I don't know. I don't know."
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan Outdoor Club
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456824
Year 2007
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

1 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jordi Tosas Robert M 1968 Spain Leader Benasque, Huesca, Spain Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JANU07301 AAJ Tosas, Jordi - - 82:409-410 (2008) -
JANU07301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200840900/Asia-Nepal-Upper-Dolpo-Kumbhakarna-Himal-Jannu-Northwest-Face-Attempt - - -