Jannu | 2004 N Face direct
A Russia expedition to Jannu in 2004 via N Face direct, led by Alexander Odinstov. Summit reached on 26th May 2004. 10 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 4633 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | JANU04101 |
| Peak ID | JANU |
| Year | 2004 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | N Face direct |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Russia |
| Leaders | Alexander Odinstov |
| Sponsor | Panasonic Jannu North Face Russian Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 22nd,23rd |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Kyrgyz Republic |
| Approach | Ghunsa->Khumbakarna Glacier |
| Basecamp Date | 2004-04-03 |
| Summit Date | 2004-05-26 |
| Summit Time | 1500 |
| Summit Days | 53 |
| Total Days | 47 |
| Termination Date | 2004-05-20 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7711 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 3375 |
| Total Members | 10 |
| Summit Members | 5 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | True |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(03/04,4700m),C1(09/04,5600m),C2A(13/04,6200m),C2B(17/04,6700m),C3(22/04,7000m),C4A(07/05,7900m),C4B(10/05,7400m),Smt(26,28/05) |
| Route Notes | BC at Jannu Glacier C1 below North Face C2A at North Face C2B at North Face C3 at above mixed snow and rock to steep wall's start C4A at North Face C4B at North Face. To make place for C3: 3 people for 8 hours per day in relays cutting ice and removing stome for 4-5 days. Made 2 camps at C2 and C4 because to reach later "B" site too many hours of going up fixed ropes to camp higher than "A", then from "A"s fixed more rope above and moved to "B" sites. Went to top only on 26th May because very difficult rock (nearly difficult rock from 7000m upwards) and slow progress fixing rope to top, carrying heavy equipment; put ice screws below 7000m and rock pitons above (used total about 75 ice screws and about 300 rock pitons - in some places as rock not good and needed 2-3 pitons at a single point). 1st summit party left C4B at 5:00 am and on top 3:00 pm and back to C4 at 6:00 pm and on 27th to BC. Had spent 4 nights above 7000m and wanted to get quickly to lower altitude had strong wind. Top was snow cornice and difficult for rock climbers especially last 70m to top on NE Ridge much of it was powder snow on rock, which is dangerous to climb. 28th May summit party left C4B at 5:00 am and on top at 10:30 am in much faster ascent because route now opened by 1st party. Down to C4B at 2:00 pm rested and down to C4A to sleep; next day cleared mountain of some rope and all tents, etc (could not bring down all rope because sun had melted and frozen much of it; in BC same day, 29th. Another factor in slow climbing was that not possible to climb this route with mittens, but to go without mittens, fingers got very cold, so every 2 meters (or even less) had to pause and rub fingers to get them warm again. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | 1st direct ascent of North Face |
| Agency | Royal Mountain Travel |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | False |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2455606 |
| Year | 2004 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | n face direct |
Members
10 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mikhail Bakin | M | 1952 | Russia | Exp Doctor | St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia | Hospital pediatrician | Details Other expeditions |
| Alexei Bolotov | M | 1963 | Russia | Climber | Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia | Computer engineer in factory | Details Other expeditions |
| Sergei Borisov | M | 1957 | Russia | Climber | Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia | Computer equipment factory engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Gennady Kirievsky | M | 1961 | Russia | Climber | Magnitogorsk, Russia | Engineer in machinery production company | Details Other expeditions |
| Mikhail Mikhailov | M | 1972 | Kyrgyz Republic | Climber | Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan | Professional alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Alexander Odintsov | M | 1957 | Russia | Leader | St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia | Home construction company director | Details Other expeditions |
| Mikhail Pershin | M | 1971 | Russia | Climber | Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia | Professional alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Dmitri Pavlenko | M | 1968 | Russia | Climber | Moscow, Russia | Professional alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Alexander Ruchkin | M | 1963 | Russia | Climber | St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia | Professional alpinist & manager in home construction company | Details Other expeditions |
| Nikolai Totmyanin | M | 1958 | Russia | Climber | St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia | Home construction worker | Details Other expeditions |
References
7 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| JANU04101 | HIGH | - | - | - | 261:4 (Aug 2004) | - |
| JANU04101 | CLIM | - | - | - | 5:81-83 (Jul 2005) | - |
| JANU04101 | AAJ | Ruchkin, Alexander | The North Face of Jannu | - | 79:56-63 (2005) | - |
| JANU04101 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 79:402-403 (2005) | - |
| JANU04101 | - | - | http://www.russianclimb.com/jannu/jannu_en.html | - | - | - |
| JANU04101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200540200/Asia-Nepal-Kangchenjunga-Region-Kumbhakarna-Himal-Jannu-North-Face-New-Route-Summary | - | - | - |
| JANU04101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200505600/The-North-Face-of-Jannu | - | - | - |