Jannu | 2004 N Face direct

A Russia expedition to Jannu in 2004 via N Face direct, led by Alexander Odinstov. Summit reached on 26th May 2004. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4633
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JANU04101
Peak ID JANU
Year 2004
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face direct
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Russia
Leaders Alexander Odinstov
Sponsor Panasonic Jannu North Face Russian Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 22nd,23rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Kyrgyz Republic
Approach Ghunsa->Khumbakarna Glacier
Basecamp Date 2004-04-03
Summit Date 2004-05-26
Summit Time 1500
Summit Days 53
Total Days 47
Termination Date 2004-05-20
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7711
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 3375
Total Members 10
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/04,4700m),C1(09/04,5600m),C2A(13/04,6200m),C2B(17/04,6700m),C3(22/04,7000m),C4A(07/05,7900m),C4B(10/05,7400m),Smt(26,28/05)
Route Notes BC at Jannu Glacier C1 below North Face C2A at North Face C2B at North Face C3 at above mixed snow and rock to steep wall's start C4A at North Face C4B at North Face. To make place for C3: 3 people for 8 hours per day in relays cutting ice and removing stome for 4-5 days. Made 2 camps at C2 and C4 because to reach later "B" site too many hours of going up fixed ropes to camp higher than "A", then from "A"s fixed more rope above and moved to "B" sites. Went to top only on 26th May because very difficult rock (nearly difficult rock from 7000m upwards) and slow progress fixing rope to top, carrying heavy equipment; put ice screws below 7000m and rock pitons above (used total about 75 ice screws and about 300 rock pitons - in some places as rock not good and needed 2-3 pitons at a single point). 1st summit party left C4B at 5:00 am and on top 3:00 pm and back to C4 at 6:00 pm and on 27th to BC. Had spent 4 nights above 7000m and wanted to get quickly to lower altitude had strong wind. Top was snow cornice and difficult for rock climbers especially last 70m to top on NE Ridge much of it was powder snow on rock, which is dangerous to climb. 28th May summit party left C4B at 5:00 am and on top at 10:30 am in much faster ascent because route now opened by 1st party. Down to C4B at 2:00 pm rested and down to C4A to sleep; next day cleared mountain of some rope and all tents, etc (could not bring down all rope because sun had melted and frozen much of it; in BC same day, 29th. Another factor in slow climbing was that not possible to climb this route with mittens, but to go without mittens, fingers got very cold, so every 2 meters (or even less) had to pause and rub fingers to get them warm again.
Accidents -
Achievement 1st direct ascent of North Face
Agency Royal Mountain Travel
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455606
Year 2004
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face direct

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Mikhail Bakin M 1952 Russia Exp Doctor St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia Hospital pediatrician Details Other expeditions
Alexei Bolotov M 1963 Russia Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Computer engineer in factory Details Other expeditions
Sergei Borisov M 1957 Russia Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Computer equipment factory engineer Details Other expeditions
Gennady Kirievsky M 1961 Russia Climber Magnitogorsk, Russia Engineer in machinery production company Details Other expeditions
Mikhail Mikhailov M 1972 Kyrgyz Republic Climber Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan Professional alpinist Details Other expeditions
Alexander Odintsov M 1957 Russia Leader St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia Home construction company director Details Other expeditions
Mikhail Pershin M 1971 Russia Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Professional alpinist Details Other expeditions
Dmitri Pavlenko M 1968 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Professional alpinist Details Other expeditions
Alexander Ruchkin M 1963 Russia Climber St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia Professional alpinist & manager in home construction company Details Other expeditions
Nikolai Totmyanin M 1958 Russia Climber St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia Home construction worker Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JANU04101 HIGH - - - 261:4 (Aug 2004) -
JANU04101 CLIM - - - 5:81-83 (Jul 2005) -
JANU04101 AAJ Ruchkin, Alexander The North Face of Jannu - 79:56-63 (2005) -
JANU04101 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 79:402-403 (2005) -
JANU04101 - - http://www.russianclimb.com/jannu/jannu_en.html - - -
JANU04101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200540200/Asia-Nepal-Kangchenjunga-Region-Kumbhakarna-Himal-Jannu-North-Face-New-Route-Summary - - -
JANU04101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200505600/The-North-Face-of-Jannu - - -