Jannu | 2003 N Face direct

A Russia expedition to Jannu in 2003 via N Face direct, led by Alexander Odintsov. Summit reached on 12th October 2003. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4494
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JANU03301
Peak ID JANU
Year 2003
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face direct
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Russia
Leaders Alexander Odintsov
Sponsor Russian Jannu Expedition 2003
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Kyrgyz Republic
Approach Gujo Khola to Kumbhakarna (Jannu) Glacier
Basecamp Date 2003-09-08
Summit Date 2003-10-12
Summit Time -
Summit Days 34
Total Days 37
Termination Date 2003-10-15
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7200m due to bad weather
High Point (m) 7200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 2350
Total Members 9
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(08/09,4600m),C1(13/09,5600m),C2(25/09,6500m),C3(02/10,7000m),xxx(12/10,7200m)
Route Notes BC at 4600m on north side of glacier C1 at 5600m on rock ledge C2 at 6500m in snow cave xxx at 7200m on North Face (90-90 degrees steep). 17th Sept was accident: Mikhailov injured by falling ice on his head, chest and hips with broken ribs and hip bone just above C1 and was helicoptered to KTM. Fixed ropes from bergschrund above C1 to 7200m, and from glacier to C1 (19x50m), and 28 more 50m ropes above C1. Stopped climb at 7200m because of bad weather; snowfall was strong and very cold and impossible to climb without mittens. Route was direct route up center of North Face to summit. Expedition was not bothered by Maoists, but Russians moved very fast through Maoist area above Taplejung.
Accidents Odintsov's left arm hit by stonefall (broken) on way to C1 on 25 Oct
Achievement -
Agency Royal Mountain Travel
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455378
Year 2003
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face direct

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Mikhail Bakin M 1952 Russia Exp Doctor St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia Physician (surgeon) Details Other expeditions
Alexei Bolotov M 1963 Russia Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Metallurgical engineer Details Other expeditions
Mikhail Davy M 1966 Russia Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Head of private real estate company Details Other expeditions
Mikhail Mikhailov M 1972 Kyrgyz Republic Climber Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Alexander Odintsov M 1957 Russia Leader St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia Head of private construction company Details Other expeditions
Mikhail Pershin M 1971 Russia Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Housebuilder Details Other expeditions
Alexander Ruchkin M 1963 Russia Climber St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia Professional alpinist Details Other expeditions
Nikolai Totmyanin M 1958 Russia Climber St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ivan Samoilenko M - Russia Cameraman St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JANU03301 AAJ Griffin, Lindsay - - 78:411-412 (2004) -
JANU03301 HIGH - - - 265:59 (Dec 2004) -
JANU03301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200441103/Asia-Nepal-Kangchenjunga-Himal-Jannu-Attempt-on-Direct-North-Face - - -