Jannu | 2000 N Face direct-E Ridge

A Australia expedition to Jannu in 2000 via N Face direct-E Ridge, led by Athol Whimp. Summit reached on 16th May 2000. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3585
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JANU00101
Peak ID JANU
Year 2000
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face direct-E Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Australia
Leaders Athol Whimp
Sponsor Australian Jannu Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 21st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries New Zealand
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2000-03-21
Summit Date 2000-05-16
Summit Time -
Summit Days 56
Total Days 65
Termination Date 2000-05-25
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7711
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(21/03,4500m),C1(06/04,5050m),C2(09/04,5400m),Smt(16/05)
Route Notes BC at north side of Kumbuka Glacier terrace. Had intended to do new direct route with no fixed camps. Attempted twice, 22 April to 24 April up to 5950m and stopped by bad storm on 23rd night with spindrift avalanching, so down on 24 April to C2 and 25 April to BC. 1 May back to C2 and next attempt on 5 May; departed 3:30 am and reached 6050m but on 6 May at 7:00 am and heard crashing above and rock fall which destroyed hanging tent like portaledge, narrowly missing members; so down again with lot of rock fall and bad weather. Decided on 6 May to change route to Japanese '76 spring route, so down to C2 6 May and BC on 7 May from same BC, back to same C2 on 10 May. 11 May fixed 200m rope at the base of rock and ice buttress and slept in C2. 12 May from C2 4:00 am, up ropes and then alpine-style climb above; biv at 6200m; 13 May at 6500m; 14 May at 6750m; 15 May left 6750m, 1:30 am with no biv equipment except small stove, a bit of fuel, 1 rope and some ice screws and pitons, reached East Ridge at 7250m 9:30 am and looked up to the summit and was much more difficult than expected but kept going along ridge with intermittent snowfall and winds: at 5:30 pm storm worsening and Athol's hair showing electricity and helmet sparking so got into cave at 7600m, 10-20m below high point and spent night there shivering in -18 degrees C temperature. 16 May left ice cave 6:30 am and got to top at 10:00 am and stayed 1/2 hour and then down and other member lost footing at 7600m and fell down 10-15m on belay from below by Athol and passed him but only bruised shoulder but not serious. Down in deteriorating weather and when descended from ridge very windy with spindrift and soon dark (had headlamps): back to 6750m where had tent and reached it 9:40 pm. Stayed there on 17th and 18th to C2. Too exhausted to go to BC next day, so on 20th in terrible weather to BC including very deep new snow.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Traditional Treks
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454131
Year 2000
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face direct-e ridge

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Panagiota Galanopoulus M 1967 Australia Exp Doctor Brunswick, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia Physician Details Other expeditions
Andrew Lindblade M 1971 Australia Climber Carlton, Victoria, Australia Writer about climbing Details Other expeditions
Athol Whimp M 1961 New Zealand Leader South Yarra, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia Property development manager Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JANU00101 HIGH - - - 218:74 (Jan 2001) -
JANU00101 HIGH Lindblade, Andrew Jannu - 222:20-27 (May 2001) -
JANU00101 AAJ Lindblade, Andrew - - 75:392-394 (2001) -
JANU00101 AJ Whimp, Athol Jannu - North Face - 106:12-18 (2001) -
JANU00101 - Lindblade, Andrew Expeditions Hardie Grant Books, South Yarra, Australia - -
JANU00101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200139200/Asia-Nepal-Western-Nepal-Janak-Himal-Jannu-Wall-of-Shadows-Ascent - - -
JANU00101 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2001_files/AJ%202001%2012-18%20Whimp%20Jannu.pdf - - -