Janak Chuli | 2013 SW Face of SW Ridge of E Smt

A Japan expedition to Janak Chuli in 2013 via SW Face of SW Ridge of E Smt, led by Hiroshi Hagiwara. Summit reached on 11th October 2013. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8304
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JANK13301
Peak ID JANK
Year 2013
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face of SW Ridge of E Smt
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Hiroshi Hagiwara
Sponsor Aoyama University People Janak Chuli East Expedition 2013
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2013-09-24
Summit Date 2013-10-11
Summit Time 1230
Summit Days 17
Total Days 21
Termination Date 2013-10-15
Termination Reason 2
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6893
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 1800
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent True
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(24/09,5200m),C1(01/10,5600m),C2(05/10,5870m),C3(09/10,6450m),E.Smt(11/10,6893m)
Route Notes BC on left side of Chhyatungdinga (Broken) Glacier C1 just before glacier opens wide (5600m) C2 on open glacier at foot of SW Face (5870m) C3 on SW Face (6450m). The team's goal was the top of the East Summit (6893m), not the main summit, and they reached their goal. Three members made an unsuccessful bid to reach the East Summit on 10 October. They were Hagiwara, Honda and Murakami with three Tamangs, Kitap Sing, Ram Kaji and Tul Bahadur. But they got no higher than 6700m before it was too late to carry on: the snow covering the main technical difficulties on that lay ahead to reach the final two pitches to reach the easy final ridge to the top. While the Tamangs fixed more rope, they retreated to C3 for the night. The next day at 6:00 am they set off again and were successful this time. Hagiwara and the three Tamangs summited at 12:30 mid-day and were followed an hour later by Honda and Murakami. They had managed to fix 1800 meters of rope from C2 to the east summit. All were down in C2 at 7:30 pm and in BC the next day. Then they were stuck in BC for three days by heavy snowfall that produced a cover one meter deep before it stopped. They were able to leave BC only on 15 October for Lhonak. For them to carry on to the main summit (7041m) would have been very difficult. They did not have enough strength for that. Non-summiting members: Furushiro reached C2 with the team, but then developed the early stage of pulmonary edema and went back to BC, where he stayed until they all left together. He used oxygen for an hour in C2 and during his descent to C1. Mashimo and Nakanishi were young students with little climbing experience. They spents the entire climbing period in BC as planned. Fixed Rope: 1800m were fixed from C2 to C3 too nearly summit. The steepest part from C3 to final ridge was fully equipped, same for the final ridge, even less difficult. Oxygen: Furushiro used oxygen for medical use at C2 (headache and stomach's problems). Hired: Kitap Sing Tamang, 30/8/76, Deusa-6, Solu, Everest X1, Manaslu X2 Ram Kaji Tamang, 10/6/77, Deusa-6, Solu, no 8000ers Tul Bahadur Tamang, 30/8/66, Deusa-6, Solu
Accidents Furushiro's edema
Achievement -
Agency Cosmo Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2459040
Year 2013
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) sw face of sw ridge of e smt

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kaita Furushiro M 1977 Japan Assistant Leader Tokyo, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Hagiwara M 1960 Japan Leader Nerima, Tokyo, Japan Editor of a mountaineering magazine Details Other expeditions
Yuki Honda M 1989 Japan Climber Itabashi, Tokyo, Japan Student Details Other expeditions
Takanori Mashimo M 1994 Japan Climber Taito, Tokyo, Japan Student Details Other expeditions
Masayuki Murakami M 1975 Japan Climber Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Ken Nakanishi M 1994 Japan BC only Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan Student Details Other expeditions
Kitap Sing Tamang M 1976 Nepal H-A Worker Deusa-6, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ram Kaji Tamang M 1977 Nepal H-A Worker Deusa, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Tul Bahadur Tamang M 1966 Nepal H-A Worker Deusa-6, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JANK13301 AAJ Hagiwara, Hiroshi - - 88:326-327 (2014) -
JANK13301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212622/Janak-East-6987m-southwest-face-and-southeast-ridge - - -