Janak Chuli | 2012 W Face

A Slovenia expedition to Janak Chuli in 2012 via W Face, led by Miha Habjan. Summit reached on 22nd October 2012. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 7865
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JANK12301
Peak ID JANK
Year 2012
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Slovenia
Leaders Miha Habjan
Sponsor Slovenian Himalayan Janak Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2012-10-02
Summit Date 2012-10-22
Summit Time 1350
Summit Days 20
Total Days 25
Termination Date 2012-10-27
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7041
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Lashar II (LAS2-123-01)
Campsites BC(02/10,4700m),Biv(21/10,6700m),Smt(22/10)
Route Notes 2nd October: Lhonak basecamp 4700m. Acclimatization days around Lhonak's hills until 5600/5800m (half-day ascents) 8th October: ABC on Chijima (Tsisima) Glacier at 5500m (near point on Finish Map). From there all attempts would be made in one-day trips, except for the Janak Chuli West Face ascent (one bivouac). 13th of October: Matevz, Kremser and Miha in ABC to have a look on the West Face of Janak Chuli. 14th of October: Matevz, Kremser and Miha went west on a col at 6000m between 6166m peak (not so difficualt to reach) and 6170m peak (very difficult to reach) to observe the other faces better. In his plan, Miha thought to climb again the gully climbed with Stremfelj on Lashar I 7 years ago, but the glaciers had just so melted that the conditions were too dangerous. 15th of October: Marcic and Strazar started at 5 am for a new route on Lashar II's steep South Face (little left on the South Face of Lashar II). This face sizes 1000m high, with some pitches at 90-degree ice (little steeper than a North Face of Les Droites). The team stopped at 6500m at 3 pm and went back to the ABC at 8 pm. Meanwhile Matevz, Kremser and Miha had a rest day at ABC and could observe their friends. 16th of October: Matevz and Kremser went straight north from the ABC on the Glacier lying west and southwest of Lashar I to bivouac on it around 6200m (these glacier gentle slopes join easily the West Ridge of Lashar I - normal route). 17th of October: Matevz and Kremser tried to climb the 200m high gully up to 6400m by which Stremfelj and Habjan rappeled down from the West Ridge in 2005 (40 to 50-degree slopes); here they had to go back because of strong winds and then went down by the West Ridge. They started at 5:30 am, stopped at 8 am and went back the same day at Lhonak base camp. The glaciers under all the south faces have gone down. In a few years they will have disappeared! 18th October: everybody back at the BC. 19th October: Marcic and Strazar went to the ABC, others stayed at BC. 20th October: Marcic and Strazar had a rest day at ABC. 21st October: Marcic and Strazar started at 1:30 am to walk in direction of the West Face of Janak Chuli Main. After 2:30 of approach, the pair began to climb around 4 am on the right side of the face up to 6 pm when they joined the SW Ridge at 6700m (here they joined the Stremfelj route of 2006). To bivouac, they dug a kind of snow hole with the foot halfway of the hole. 22nd October: after a cold windy night (-17 degrees C at 6700m in continous wind), the pair started at 8:30 only because they had difficulties to warm up their feet and fingers. After a large crossing from right to left on the upper part of the face, the duo eventually reached summit at 1:50 pm. The route's difficulty is nothing too hard. Ice: average of 60-degree slopes for the whole face, with steepest sections up to 80/85 degrees. Mixt: M4 on some sections. The face is 1400m high. Meanwhile Matevz, Kremser and Miha were at BC during that time until the 23rd of October. 23rd October: Matevz and Kremser went to ABC on Broken Glacier with the help of the cook to carry their gear (the cook was back at BC the same day), planning to attempt the SW Ridge of Janak Chuli East. 24th of October: Miha having stomachs problems, one member having bad news from home, Matevz and Kremser went back to the BC the same day without attempting the route. The climbing activity was over. 27th October: The team left Lhonak to Ghunsa and went on south side of Kangchenjunga to watch future other projects. 4th November: team went back in Taplejung, the day after in Biratnagar (according to Miha Habjan, the route seems better now than in 2005) and on 6th November, the entire team was back in Kathmandu. 1 = Matevz 2 = Kremser 3 = Marcic 4 = Miha 5 = Strazar
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Wilderness Experience
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2458685
Year 2012
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jerman Matevz M 1982 Slovenia Climber Ljublan, Slovenia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Igor Kremser M 1987 Slovenia Climber Vuhred, Slovenia Student Details Other expeditions
Nejc Marcic M 1985 Slovenia Climber Bled, Slovenia Construction worker Details Other expeditions
Miha Habjan M 1977 Slovenia Leader Ljubljana, Slovenia Agricultural engineer & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Luka Strazar M 1988 Slovenia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia Student Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JANK12301 AAJ - - - 87:339-340 (2013) -
JANK12301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212257/Janak-7040m-west-face - - -