Janak Chuli | 2010 SW Ridge

A Japan expedition to Janak Chuli in 2010 via SW Ridge, led by Tsugio Iwai. Summit reached on 12th October 2010. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6965
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JANK10301
Peak ID JANK
Year 2010
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Tsugio Iwai
Sponsor 2010 Aoyamagakuin University Outlier (Janak Chuli) Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Ghunsa Khola->Lhonak
Basecamp Date 2010-09-29
Summit Date 2010-10-12
Summit Time -
Summit Days 13
Total Days 16
Termination Date 2010-10-15
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6710m due to bad snow conditions
High Point (m) 6710
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 1200
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(29/09,5200m),C1(06/10,5400m),C2(09/10,5850m),xxx(12/10,6710m)
Route Notes BC at Broken Glacier north side C1 on moraine left side of Broken Glacier C2 on Glacier due south of peak. The team established their BC on 29 September at 5200m on the north side of Broken Glacier, and on 2 October the leader, Tsugio Iwai, went up to 5500m to have a look at the mountain. On the 3rd, Iwai, who was 63 yrs old, had a heart problem, used oxygen on his return to BC and left the expedition on the 3rd. With him went a very sick (high fever) Sherpa who had done no climbing. A summit bid was made by the three remaining members and their climbing "Sherpas," Dan Kumar, Kitap Singh and Tul Bahadur. On 11 October the "Sherpas" left C1, joined the members in C2 and the six men started up from C2 at 5:30 am. Murakami and Dan Kumar reached 6700m at 2:30 pm. They planned to bivouac at 6800m on the SW Ridge. The weather was excellent, but they were stopped by steep deep soft snow in which it wasn't possible for crampons or ice axes to take hold. So they bivouacked 100m lower. Tsuchda stayed with Nagata, who was 66 yrs old and not strong, and had to struggle to climb over rocks. He was very slow, but obsessed with the idea of going to the top. He became confused. There was no place for all of them to bivouac in this area, and two "Sherpas," Tul Bahadur and Kitap Singh, who wanted to sleep in a camp, not a bivouac anyway, were descending and met Nagata and Tsuchda. The two "Sherpas" and two Japanese went down in a group with Kitap Singh 60m behind the others. Nagata became almost unable to walk and was close to collapsing, but with the help of Tul Bahadur got to C2 at 10:00 pm. (The others had reached the camp at 8:45 pm). Tsuchda made juice, easily swallowed food, tea and coffee for him. He refused to take oxygen through a mask, so Tsuchda filled the tent with the entire contents of the oxygen cylinder. Nagata protested, but he stayed in C2 that night. Meanwhile, Murakami and Dan Kumar had spent the night in a crevasse at 6700m. The next morning it was foggy, and it was not until 9:00 am that Tul Bahadur and Kitap Sing could go up from C2 and join them at their bivouac. But the soft snow defeated them all: even their feet could not take hold in it. They tried several different lines up and managed to climb ten meters higher than the crevasse at 10:24 am. Then gave up. They descended to C2. Everyone returned to C1 on the 13th and to BC the next day. "Sherpas": Dan Kumar Tamang, 4/12/85 (19/8/2042), Deusa-6, Solu, no 8000ers Kitap Singh Tamang, 30/8/76 (14/5/2033), Deusa-6, Solu, no 8000ers Tul Bahadur Tamang, 3/10/66, Deusa vdc, Solu, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2, Dhaulagiri I X1, Manaslu X1
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Cosmo Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2457942
Year 2010
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Tsugio Iwai M 1947 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Civil engineer (president of business company) Details Other expeditions
Masayuki Murakami M 1975 Japan Climber Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan IT products producer Details Other expeditions
Shigeki Nagata M 1984 Japan Climber Saitama-shi, Saitama, Japan Student Details Other expeditions
Kosuke Tsuchda M 1944 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Editor Details Other expeditions
Dan Kumar Tamang M 1985 Nepal H-A Worker Deusa-6, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Kitap Sing Tamang M 1976 Nepal H-A Worker Deusa-6, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Tul Bahadur Tamang M 1966 Nepal H-A Worker Deusa-6, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JANK10301 AAJ Hagiwara, Hiroshi - - 85:339 (2011) -
JANK10301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12201133900/Janak-East-Summit-South-Face-Attempt - - -