Janak Chuli | 2005 S Face-SW Ridge

A Slovenia expedition to Janak Chuli in 2005 via S Face-SW Ridge, led by Andrej Stremfelj. Summit reached on 20th October 2005. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5098
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JANK05301
Peak ID JANK
Year 2005
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face-SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Slovenia
Leaders Andrej Stremfelj
Sponsor Slovenian Janak Expedition 2005
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Ghunsa->Lhonak
Basecamp Date 2005-09-29
Summit Date 2005-10-20
Summit Time -
Summit Days 21
Total Days 23
Termination Date 2005-10-22
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6650m due to bad weather and lack of time
High Point (m) 6650
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Lashar I (LASH-053-01)
Campsites BC(29/09,4750m),ABC(06/10,5710m),Biv(20/10,6650m),xxx(20/10,6650m)
Route Notes BC at Lhonak ABC on broken (Chhyctundonga) glacier moraine near south of point 5679 on HMG map Biv at top of South Face at SW Ridge in snowhole High point on SW Ridge. To acclimatize for Janak, they climbed Dzanye just west of Janak on a SW couloir which leads almost directly to summit; down West Ridge but became very steep and moved over to South Face 200m below top; even here had to rappel 350m. Climbed mountain on 12 Oct from Janak BC starting 10 Oct and in 2 bivs scaled mountain. 1st biv at 5610m [had cook boy, Girmi Dorje Sherpa, carry loads to 1st biv, 12 km from BC (and left) members there] on Tisisima Glacier on moraine just southeast of point 5666m on HMG map; 11th climbed glacier of Dzanye to 6200m and 2nd biv, 3 km from 1st biv in direction to SSE Face. 12th down 150m to bottom of couloir on SSE Face and up couloir to West Ridge at 6770m and thence to top 6820m - couloir 50-55 degrees ice; then to the 1st biv, 13th to BC; had already pitched ABC to acclimatize. To Janak and to ABC on 18 Oct. 19th looked at glacier under its South Face. 20th started up at 4:30 am; 6:00 am started on face itself: went up couloir at east end of South Face, having abandoned original plan to go up SW Pillar because Habjan's throat problem and weather turned cloudy in am. At 6:00 pm had finished couloir up face to SW Ridge of Janak and bived here, strong wind, very cold, cloudy and now down; dug hole in snow here at 6650m with no tent, no sleeping bags because had expected to continue climb in full moonlight, but clouds obscured the moon. 21st heavier clouds and they decided to abandon summit attempt; descended same route, 15 rappels down the face; at 2:00 pm reached glacier. Snowfalling and avalanches had begun on face. Descended to ABC at 5:00 pm (where kitchen boy waited) and on down to BC on morning of 22 Oct having descended all night because on 25th had seats on flight from Taplejung. Left BC at 2:00 pm for Ghunsa and 2 more days to Taplejung only to find bad weather prevented flight. Stremfelj's corrections about his expedition in Autumn 2005 - 17 May 2006 After he returned from another expedition to Janak in 2006 and having consulted Jan Kielowski's monograph, Jonsang Himal, Volume 1, Andrej Stremfelj said that he was mistaken about what mountain his autumn 2005 expedition had been on. They had not gone for acclimatization to Dzange, the peak they had actually climbed, and made the first ascent of, was Lashar I (see Kielowski, page 14), which Kielowski says is 6930m high but Stremfelj found was 6870m high, on the Tibetan border west of Janak Chuli. The climb's details given by Stremfelj on 30 October 2005 still hold good, but the name of the mountain was not Dzange but Lashar I. They then went to Janak Chuli.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Wilderness Experience
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456119
Year 2005
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face-sw ridge

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Miha Habjan M 1977 Slovenia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia Agriculture student Details Other expeditions
Andrej Stremfelj M 1956 Slovenia Leader Kranj, Slovenia Sports teacher Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JANK05301 ALP Stremfelj, Andrej Janak, First Ascent - 17:92 (Autumn 2006) -
JANK05301 AAJ Stremfelj, Andrej - - 80:428-431 (2006) -
JANK05301 CLIM - - - 26:80-81 (Apr 2007) -
JANK05301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200642802/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-Himal-Janak-Himal-Lashar-I-First-Ascent-of-Peak-Via-South-Face-Janak-South-Face-Attempt - - -