Janak Chuli | 2004 SW Ridge

A Romania expedition to Janak Chuli in 2004 via SW Ridge, led by Constantin Lacatusu. Summit reached on 11th November 2004. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4799
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JANK04301
Peak ID JANK
Year 2004
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Romania
Leaders Constantin Lacatusu
Sponsor Romanian Janak First Ascent Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Ghunsa->Lhonak
Basecamp Date 2004-10-21
Summit Date 2004-11-11
Summit Time -
Summit Days 21
Total Days 30
Termination Date 2004-11-20
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6500m due to difficult and dangerous seracs area
High Point (m) 6500
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 300
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC((21/10,4800m),ABC(24/10,5200m),C1(28/10,5500m),C2(01/11,5750m),C3(10/11,6200m),xxx(11/11,6500m)
Route Notes BC at junction of Lhonak and Broken Glacier ABC at moraine in right side of Chhyatsunda Glacier C1 at moraine on right side of glacier below Drohmo C2 at 5750m on ice of glacier (near point 5678m on HMG map) C3 at bottom of rock towers. Had to fix rope at start of Chhyatsunda Glacier to cross gorges into Glacier for porters. Had made recce up Lhonak Glacier into Chijima Glacier of HMG map on 22nd Oct but saw ridge approach too long. Took lot of time to eastablish ABC because only 2 members. C3 on mixed rock and ice (alternating rock and ice) at base of rock tower south of point 6987m HMG map on Tibetan border. 11th Nov summit attempt. Had fixed ropes from 6000m to 6200m on 4 Nov, then down to BC to rest and back to C3 on 10th. 11th Nov both members climbed right side of rock tower all day in alpine style to 6500m to serac area with powder snow which was impossible to fix, so down to C3 after dark. 12th tried left side of rock tower below overhanging seracs but again powder snow - got to 6400m and again back to C3. 12th to C2 and 14th climbed north faces of a peak 6095m south-southwest of Janak up broken ice glacier and then deep (1.5m) snow and back to C2. That night 4:00 am seracs avalanched off west side of Janak. Blast damaged tent and all day west and southwest side of Janak avalanching, so decided to leave and down to BC on 15th. 20th from BC north to junction of Lhonak and Chijima Glaciers and climbed west peak of a mountain with 2 peaks; west peak 6196m on HMG map climbed its south face of rock then ice to SW Ridge to summit on ice. At night Lhonak village at 1:00 am of 21st. Sherpas never went higher than C1, not to smaller peaks at all. "1st part of Janak was technical and we climbed it; 2nd half dangerous and we didn't climb that." Despite seracs would be possible to climb with more manpower and rope. Technical part "very nice." Both members "would like to come back and finish what we started."
Accidents Amzaroiu bad lung infection; BC only and left 24 Oct
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455775
Year 2004
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Viorel Dorin Amzarov M 1976 Romania Climber Bucharest, Romania Motor car sales consultant Details Other expeditions
Constantin Lacatusu M 1961 Romania Leader Piatra Neamt, Romania Geologist Details Other expeditions
Ioan Torek M 1963 Romania Climber Cluj, Romania Alpinist Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JANK04301 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 79:400 (2005) -
JANK04301 CLIM - - - 12:62 (Feb 2006) -
JANK04301 - - http://www.lacatusu.ro - - -
JANK04301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200540001/Asia-Nepal-Kangchenjunga-Region-Janak-Himal-Janak-Outlier-Peak-7044m-Attempt - - -