Jannu East | 1993 E Face of E Smt

A Slovenia expedition to Jannu East in 1993 via E Face of E Smt, led by Dusan Debelak. Summit reached on 10th October 1993. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 9891
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JANE93301
Peak ID JANE
Year 1993
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Face of E Smt
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Slovenia
Leaders Dusan Debelak
Sponsor Jannu East Slovenia Expedition 1993
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1993-09-19
Summit Date 1993-10-10
Summit Time -
Summit Days 21
Total Days 25
Termination Date 1993-10-14
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6800m due to avalanches (too dangerous)
High Point (m) 6800
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(19/09,5000m),ABC(06/10,5400m),Biv1(07/10,5900m),Biv2(08/10,6500m),xxx(10/10,6800m)
Route Notes BC below East Face on Yalung Glacier ABC at glacier Khumbakarna Glacier High point on East Face. Safe climb only 2:00 am to 6:00 am and then rock avalanche could start. Began push on 7th and climbed 200m of rock wall that day. 8th started 5:00 am and got to 6500m in total 9 hours climbing (5:00-8:30 am and 2:30-9:00 pm). 9th stone and snow avalanches all day so stayed in biv. 10th at 1:30 am started up (Robnik stayed in biv sick while Debelak and Zerovnik continued climb) and at 5:30 am reached 6800m when too dangerous from stone avalanching. Rapelled down to 6500m. That night started rapelling down and snow avalanches at 5700m hit area but they kept there places and not hurt. Weather clear but too warm. Reached ABC 11th. Climb finished. Zerovnik will never return to this face: too dangerous.
Accidents Robnik altitude sickness & little frostbite
Achievement -
Agency Wilderness Experience
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453199
Year 1993
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e face of e smt

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Dusan Debelak M 1966 Slovenia Leader Sentjur, Slovenia Electrician Details Other expeditions
August Robnik M 1964 Slovenia Climber Luce, Slovenia Student of literature Details Other expeditions
Tomaz Zerovnik M 1967 Slovenia Climber Nova Cerkev, Slovenia Student of computers Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JANE93301 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 68:204 (1994) -
JANE93301 HIGH - - - 138:6 (May 1994) -
JANE93301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199420403/Asia-Nepal-Kunbhakarna-East-Attempt - - -