Jannu East | 1992 E Face-SE Ridge of E Smt

A Slovenia expedition to Jannu East in 1992 via E Face-SE Ridge of E Smt, led by Vanja Furlan. Summit reached on 15th May 1992. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 9889
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JANE92101
Peak ID JANE
Year 1992
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Face-SE Ridge of E Smt
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Slovenia
Leaders Vanja Furlan
Sponsor Slovenian Kumbhakarna 1992
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1992-04-28
Summit Date 1992-05-15
Summit Time -
Summit Days 17
Total Days 20
Termination Date 1992-05-18
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather, exhaustion and food and gas running out while on face
High Point (m) 7100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Kabru North to 6500m for acclimatization
Campsites BC(28/04,5100m),Tent(11/05,5300m),Biv1(12/05,6300m),Biv2(13/05,6900m),xxx(15/05,7100m)
Route Notes BC at end of Yalung Glacier, east of mountain and west of Point 5520m Yakushi map Tent at bottom of East Face Biv 1 on East Face Biv 2 on East Face High point at SE Ridge. Had very bad weather during climbing and were exhausted by very steep climbing. BC lower than planned because heavy snowfall and porters unwilling to go higher and then a member realized this is a good place for small expedition. Put tent at 5300m. Made E Face on 11 May (helped by sirdar/cook and kitchen boy walking 2-1/2 hours on glacier from BC). Started ascent at 5:30 am on 12th May from tent at 5300m and start actual climb on face 7:15 am at 5500m. Climbed all day and midnight reached central serac at 6300m, found ice cave and bivouacked here for 13 hrs (were very tired and slept late). 1 pm 13th May up again till 21:00 hrs at 6900m biv in small crevasses which dug out to make it longer. 14th May morning snowstorm big avalanches all day so had to stay there all day and we were very happy to have rest. After this storm and stay all day and all night, had very little gas and food left. 15th May 6:30 am started up again, but still tired because of altitude and not enough liquid. Snowed a little but no avalanches, but decided unsafe to carry on up in their tired state. Decided to finish their route on SE Ridge and reached ridge at 12 noon at 7100m. Rested 15 mins on ridge - ridge not probably possible above 7200m because of overhanging seracs. 12:15 pm started down and 6 pm reached 1st biv. Bad weather again (snow and fog) so stayed there till 23:00 hrs, when sky clear, but temperature very cold. Left biv at 11 pm, descended all night and reached bottom of face at 6 am and tent at 7 am. Cooked something to drink, packed up and arrived at 9:30 am. Above 2nd biv 2 very difficult pitches of overhanging ice on small ridges they had to climb to reach easier ramp to ridge. Face this year midday climbing had soft ice and bare rock, whereas last year was hard ice in night time. This year had waited for good weather and went up as soon as weather was good regardless of time of day. Weather this year much worse than last year while climbing but excellent weather on approach march and return. This face technically very difficult in its entirely. It's possible only you have to have enough energy. Problem is altitude, good preparation and necessity to descend same route. Climbed 26 pitches with rope protecting each other, rest without rope.
Accidents Doctor fell on moraine below BC and injured his back; Pockar frostbitten 2 fingers (will heal)
Achievement Highest point on E Face finished route on E Face
Agency Wilderness Experience
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452685
Year 1992
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) e face-se ridge of e smt

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Vanja Anton Furlan M 1966 Slovenia Leader Novo Mesto, Slovenia Forestry student Details Other expeditions
Bojan Pockar M 1963 Slovenia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia Forester Details Other expeditions
Matjaz Vrtovec M 1949 Slovenia Exp Doctor Ljubljana, Slovenia Physician (internal medicine) Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JANE92101 AAJ Pockar, Bojan - - 67:205-208 (1993) -
JANE92101 HIGH - - - 122:3 (Jan 1993) -
JANE92101 IM Pockar, Bojana & Furlan, Vanja - - 28:82-83 (1992) -
JANE92101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199320503/Asia-Nepal-Kumbhakarna-East-Face-Attempts - - -