Jannu East | 2004 E Face of E Smt

A Slovenia expedition to Jannu East in 2004 via E Face of E Smt, led by Tomaz Humar. Summit reached on 30th October 2004. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 9887
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID JANE04301
Peak ID JANE
Year 2004
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Face of E Smt
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Slovenia
Leaders Tomaz Humar
Sponsor Jannu East Face
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Croatia
Approach By helicopter
Basecamp Date 2004-10-09
Summit Date 2004-10-30
Summit Time -
Summit Days 21
Total Days 23
Termination Date 2004-11-01
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7000m due to impassible overhanging mushrooms
High Point (m) 7000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites TempBC(06/10,5000m),BC(09/10,5050m),C1.ABC(25/10,5400m),Biv1(27/10,6000m),Biv2(28/10,6200m),Biv3(29/10,6850m),xxx(30/10,7000m)
Route Notes BC at Yalung Glacier ABC on rock at pillar before higher glacier High point at East Face of East Peak. Temporary BC on 6th was not right place, but porters said it was and so foggy and snowing couldn't see where they were; moved to correct BC one km further but only 55m higher. Humar and Bozic went to acclimatize on East Pillar of Jannu leading to it's SE Ridge; climbed to 6000m on this pillars on 19th, having started this climb on 16th and back down to glacier and BC on 20th. Jannu's East Face "totally different" from pix of 1992; black ice and many big mushrooms covered wtih powder snow, very dangerous condition of snow. Humar and Bozic left BC 25th but weather now brought clouds and snow falling so spent 2 days at ABC. 27th Humar crossed higher glacier with Bozic for 2 hours; crossing glacier shaped like amphitheater with powder avalanches falling constantly and depositing deep snow up chest-deep; also very deep crevasses narrow, was 6 km wide but with no place 2m only and he jumped it, late afternoon had to get out of avalanches debris area and had to start up an ice and rock debris pillar on East Face south end; up 1st 30m of face overhanging section in series of very dangerous and difficult obstacles and Humar hit hard by hard ice "candle." Biv at about 5:30 pm. 28th climbed system of overhanging rock cracks which hard to climb inside of and then on outside; they were polished granite and very little friction and impossible to fix; "very risky" section 20 meters high, then mushroom ridges, "nightmare" of up and down to avoid mushroom and avalanching. At 6200m found rock ledge and bived there, half hanging. 29th climbed very fast finally and in 6 hours climbed face, then got lost in overhanging mushrooms and found thinnest couloir which was black ice holes, powder snow, which had to clear away, both sides 2 huge balloons of powder snow to overhanging cauliflower cornices, fell 3 times, then traversed 20m on night side on a mushroom and biv on snowhole on ledge he dug deep into the mushroom; left gear in snowhole. Tried to find route beyond and took 4 hours to gain 20m. Returned to biv in snowhole at 6850m. Night was very cold and 100 km per hour wind "quite fresh air" blowing powder snow down his throat. Was confident he could reach shoulder on SE Ridge leading to top, but "nightmare came early in morning (of 30th) where I tried to reach this shoulder" only 20m above but "unreachable" through mushrooms and here he could find no way past them in 5 attempts in different couloirs and mushroom, so abandoned attempt at about 7000m after 4-1/2 hours of futile attempts. At 1:00 pm packed up and started down, find way through fog at 4:00 pm and snow fell and fell 5 times on rock pillars and once lower jumped 2 crevasses and got to ABC at just before 7:00 pm. No tracks to follow because avalanching had filled them. BC on 21st. Won't say face is impossible but in its present condition, got harder and and harder, riskier and riskier as one goes higher.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2457248
Year 2004
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e face of e smt

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Tomaz Humar M 1969 Slovenia Leader Kamnik, Slovenia Professional alpinist & electrician Details Other expeditions
Stipe Bozic M 1951 Croatia Climber Split, Croatia Journalist Details Other expeditions
Anda Perdan F 1952 Slovenia Exp Doctor Kranj, Slovenia Physician Details Other expeditions
Natasha Pergar F 1951 Slovenia BC Manager Postojna, Slovenia Biotherapist Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
JANE04301 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 79:401-402 (2005) -
JANE04301 CLIM - - - 12:62-63 (Feb 2006) -
JANE04301 - - http://www.russianclimb.com/humar_jannueastwall.html - - -
JANE04301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200540100/Asia-Nepal-Kangchenjunga-Region-Kumbhakarna-Himal-Jannu-Kumbhakarna-East-Face-Attempt-and-History - - -