Hongku | 2019 E Face

A Japan expedition to Hongku in 2019 via E Face, led by Hiroki Nakayama. Summit reached on 25th October 2019. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10438
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID HONK19301
Peak ID HONK
Year 2019
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Hiroki Nakayama
Sponsor Sherpa-Japanese the First Ascent Hongu Expedition 2019
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla->Baruntse BC
Basecamp Date 2019-10-20
Summit Date 2019-10-25
Summit Time 1530
Summit Days 5
Total Days 7
Termination Date 2019-10-27
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6764
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Mera Peak
Campsites BC(20/10,5400m),C1(22/10,6100m),C2(23/10,6200m),C3(24/10,6300m),Smt(25/10)
Route Notes Nakayama and Pemba Ongchhu Sherpa left C3 at 6 am on 25 Oct, summited at 15:30 pm, stayed 10 minutes, the dsecended to C3 at 8 pm. Windy, sometimes snowy, not very cold, sugary snow on the face. Ice was also soft and lots of air inside, thus hard to use ice screws. From Lindsay Griffin: Pemba Sherpa and Hiroki Nakayama (Japan) approached Hongu (6764m) in October via the Hinku and Hongu valleys. Base camp and Camp 1 were in identical locations to the same camps used to climb Baruntse. The pair then crossed the West Col, south of Baruntse, descended the top section of the West Barun Glacier (aka Lower Barun Glacier), entered the glacier bay on the right, and made their final camp (Camp 3) at around 6360m immediately below the northeast face of Hongu. The final 350m is a steep snow and ice wall with serac barriers. The pair left the top camp on October 25 with minimal gear and, alternating leads, climbed nine pitches (70m rope). Some of the ground was very steep and the ice was like sugar. In strong wind and snow they reached the top at 3:15 pm. and after only 10 minutes began a rappel descent. They used snow stakes for most anchors, but when these ran out were forced to abandon an ice screw and Nakayama's Nomic axe. They regained camp at 8:30 pm.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Alpine Outdoors
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2461206
Year 2019
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e face

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hiroki Nakayama M 1983 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Business owner Details Other expeditions
Pemba Ongchu (Pemba Wangchu) Sherpa M 1983 Nepal H-A Worker Kharikhola, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
HONK19301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215307 - - -
HONK19301 AAJ Griffin, Lindsay Hongu, First Recorded Ascent of Northeast Face - 94:327 (2020) -