Himalchuli West | 1989 SW Ridge

A UK expedition to Himalchuli West in 1989 via SW Ridge, led by Stephen (Steve) Bell. Summit reached on 30th May 1989. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 801
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID HIMW89101
Peak ID HIMW
Year 1989
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Stephen (Steve) Bell
Sponsor International Himalchuli Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd,3rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, Hong Kong, New Zealand, Norway
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1989-05-09
Summit Date 1989-05-30
Summit Time 0930
Summit Days 21
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7540
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 3500
Total Members 12
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(09/05,4500m),C1(15/05,5800m),C2(26/05,6100m),C3(29/05,6550m),Smt(30/05,01/06)
Route Notes BC at Meme Pokhari C1 at snow flat area on SW Ridge which here was mostly rocky C2 at base of large snow basins C3 at base of ice cliffs. Lots of bad weather between 9th and 15th and again heavy snowfall on 27th, when 3m snow accumulated and was necessary to go down 3m into hole to enter C2's tent; on 29th night fixed ropes through ice cliff in bid to go to top and of these Gangdal and Bayne bived at 7000m, the high point reached in bad weather that day, while others down to C3. On 30th Gangdal and Bayne to summit and down to C2. 31st Brice and Mercer left C3 at midnight in thunder and lightning storm which provided good light and were on top 7:30 am of 1 June and back to C2 at 11:00 am; no more attempts because some not acclimatized and others too tired. SW Ridge is long and somewhat technically difficult route; fixed 3500m rope. Joint commercial expedition by Himalayan Kingdoms (UK) and High Country Expeditions (NZ).
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Amtrek/Rover Treks
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450116
Year 1989
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Paul Bayne M 1956 Australia Climber Whale Beach, NSW, Australia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Stephen J. (Steve) Bell M 1959 UK Leader Bristol, Avon, England Tour operator Details Other expeditions
William Bennett M 1944 UK Climber Bristol, Avon, England Managing director of import company Details Other expeditions
Russell Reginald Brice M 1952 New Zealand Climber Twizel, Canterbury, New Zealand Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jon Gangdal M 1954 Norway Climber Kolsaas, Norway Journalist Details Other expeditions
Graham F. Hoyland M 1957 UK Climber Lower Weare, Somerset, England Television studio manager Details Other expeditions
Campbell Mercer M 1961 Australia Climber Lae, New Guinea Geologist Details Other expeditions
Bjarne Schmidt M 1945 Norway Climber Oslo, Norway Organization executive Details Other expeditions
Philip Segal M 1947 Australia Climber Moree, NSW, Australia Solicitor Details Other expeditions
Charles Tanner M 1944 UK Climber Dunedin, New Zealand Heating engineer Details Other expeditions
Mark Vallance M 1944 UK Climber Exam, Derbyshire, England Manufacturing company director Details Other expeditions
K. K. Woo M 1940 Hong Kong Climber Stanley, Hong Kong Real estate agent Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
HIMW89101 AAJ Bell, Stephen - - 64:245-246 (1990) -
HIMW89101 HJ Bell, Stephen The International Himalchuli West Expedition, 1989 - 46:35-38 (1988-1989) -
HIMW89101 MM - - - 128:15 (Jul 1989) -
HIMW89101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199024503/Asia-Nepal-Himalchui-West - - -
HIMW89101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/46/7/the-international-himalchuli-west-expedition-1989/ - - -