Himalchuli North | 1985 SW Ridge-SW Face-E Ridge
A Poland expedition to Himalchuli North in 1985 via SW Ridge-SW Face-E Ridge, led by Wieslaw Panejko. Summit reached on 1st November 1985. 12 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 218 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | HIMN85301 |
| Peak ID | HIMN |
| Year | 1985 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SW Ridge-SW Face-E Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Poland |
| Leaders | Wieslaw Panejko |
| Sponsor | Polish Himalaya Expedition Himalchuli 1985 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 2nd |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Khudi->Bandh Pokhari |
| Basecamp Date | 1985-09-28 |
| Summit Date | 1985-11-01 |
| Summit Time | 1025 |
| Summit Days | 34 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7331 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 1 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 12 |
| Summit Members | 2 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(28/09,4200m),ABC(03/10,4600m),C1(04/10,4900m),Biv1(29/10,5850m),Biv2(31/10,6600m),Smt(01/11) |
| Route Notes | BC north of Merra Pokhari ABC 2 hours from foot of SW Ridge C1 on SW Ridge (did not use this camp later) Biv 1 on SW Face above SW Ridge past C1, after 1st serac barrier Biv 2 after 2nd serac barrier on SW Face. 6th Oct all down to BC with heavy snowfall. Twice tried to go to ABC but not possible in deep snow and avalanching. 16 Oct did reach ABC but back to BC with more bad weather. Decided to climb alpine-style. 26 Oct again to ABC and put new tent there replacing broken tent (crushed by snow). Could not see C1. 29 Oct up alpine-style in one team of Panejko, Brys and Klincewicz and reached 5850m. 30 Oct big wind, tent poles being carried were lost and returned to Biv 1. Brys down on 30th and Jakubowski replaced him. 31 Oct crossed 2nd serac barrier in very hard ice climbing. 1 Nov Panejko fingers freezing so did not get to top; other 2 returned to biv at 2:30 pm [after summiting]. No more summit attempts because winter breaking, strong winds. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | 1st Polish attempt and ascent, new route |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2448806 |
| Year | 1985 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | sw ridge-sw face-e ridge |
Members
12 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tadeusz Barbacki | M | 1932 | Poland | Climber | Wroclaw, Poland | Mechanical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Tadeusz Brys | M | 1949 | Poland | Climber | Opole, Poland | Meteorologist | Details Other expeditions |
| Andrzej Chrusciel | M | 1952 | Poland | Exp Doctor | Jelenia Gora, Poland | Surgeon | Details Other expeditions |
| Janusz Ferenski | M | 1942 | Poland | Climber | Wroclaw, Poland | Attorney | Details Other expeditions |
| Kazimierz Glazek | M | 1939 | Poland | Climber | Wroclaw, Poland | Mathematics professor | Details Other expeditions |
| Zdzislaw Jakubowski | M | 1960 | Poland | Climber | Wroclaw, Poland | Economics student | Details Other expeditions |
| Jacek (Jerzy) Klincewicz | M | 1952 | Poland | Climber | Wroclaw, Poland | Physicist | Details Other expeditions |
| Wieslaw Panejko | M | 1955 | Poland | Leader | Wroclaw, Poland | Electrical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Marian Sajnog | M | 1939 | Poland | Climber | Jelenia Gora, Poland | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Jozef Stepien | M | 1953 | Poland | Climber | Wroclaw, Poland | Electronics engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Marek Trzeciakowski | M | 1945 | Poland | Climber | Wroclaw, Poland | Electronics engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Edward Zaczynski | M | 1942 | Poland | Climber | Legnica, Poland | Mining engineer | Details Other expeditions |
References
5 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| HIMN85301 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 60:241 (1986) | - |
| HIMN85301 | HJ | Panejko, W. | Climbing Above Clouds | - | 43:127 (1985-1986) | - |
| HIMN85301 | MM | - | - | - | 108:11 (Mar 1986) | - |
| HIMN85301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198624103/Asia-Nepal-Himalchuli-North | - | - | - |
| HIMN85301 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/43/21/expeditions-and-notes-43/ | - | - | - |