Himalchuli North | 1985 SW Ridge-SW Face-E Ridge

A Poland expedition to Himalchuli North in 1985 via SW Ridge-SW Face-E Ridge, led by Wieslaw Panejko. Summit reached on 1st November 1985. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 218
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID HIMN85301
Peak ID HIMN
Year 1985
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge-SW Face-E Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Wieslaw Panejko
Sponsor Polish Himalaya Expedition Himalchuli 1985
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Khudi->Bandh Pokhari
Basecamp Date 1985-09-28
Summit Date 1985-11-01
Summit Time 1025
Summit Days 34
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7331
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 12
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(28/09,4200m),ABC(03/10,4600m),C1(04/10,4900m),Biv1(29/10,5850m),Biv2(31/10,6600m),Smt(01/11)
Route Notes BC north of Merra Pokhari ABC 2 hours from foot of SW Ridge C1 on SW Ridge (did not use this camp later) Biv 1 on SW Face above SW Ridge past C1, after 1st serac barrier Biv 2 after 2nd serac barrier on SW Face. 6th Oct all down to BC with heavy snowfall. Twice tried to go to ABC but not possible in deep snow and avalanching. 16 Oct did reach ABC but back to BC with more bad weather. Decided to climb alpine-style. 26 Oct again to ABC and put new tent there replacing broken tent (crushed by snow). Could not see C1. 29 Oct up alpine-style in one team of Panejko, Brys and Klincewicz and reached 5850m. 30 Oct big wind, tent poles being carried were lost and returned to Biv 1. Brys down on 30th and Jakubowski replaced him. 31 Oct crossed 2nd serac barrier in very hard ice climbing. 1 Nov Panejko fingers freezing so did not get to top; other 2 returned to biv at 2:30 pm [after summiting]. No more summit attempts because winter breaking, strong winds.
Accidents -
Achievement 1st Polish attempt and ascent, new route
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448806
Year 1985
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge-sw face-e ridge

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Tadeusz Barbacki M 1932 Poland Climber Wroclaw, Poland Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Tadeusz Brys M 1949 Poland Climber Opole, Poland Meteorologist Details Other expeditions
Andrzej Chrusciel M 1952 Poland Exp Doctor Jelenia Gora, Poland Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Janusz Ferenski M 1942 Poland Climber Wroclaw, Poland Attorney Details Other expeditions
Kazimierz Glazek M 1939 Poland Climber Wroclaw, Poland Mathematics professor Details Other expeditions
Zdzislaw Jakubowski M 1960 Poland Climber Wroclaw, Poland Economics student Details Other expeditions
Jacek (Jerzy) Klincewicz M 1952 Poland Climber Wroclaw, Poland Physicist Details Other expeditions
Wieslaw Panejko M 1955 Poland Leader Wroclaw, Poland Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Marian Sajnog M 1939 Poland Climber Jelenia Gora, Poland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jozef Stepien M 1953 Poland Climber Wroclaw, Poland Electronics engineer Details Other expeditions
Marek Trzeciakowski M 1945 Poland Climber Wroclaw, Poland Electronics engineer Details Other expeditions
Edward Zaczynski M 1942 Poland Climber Legnica, Poland Mining engineer Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
HIMN85301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 60:241 (1986) -
HIMN85301 HJ Panejko, W. Climbing Above Clouds - 43:127 (1985-1986) -
HIMN85301 MM - - - 108:11 (Mar 1986) -
HIMN85301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198624103/Asia-Nepal-Himalchuli-North - - -
HIMN85301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/43/21/expeditions-and-notes-43/ - - -