Himlung Himal | 2022 NW Ridge
A Nepal expedition to Himlung Himal in 2022 via NW Ridge, led by Romnath Gyawali. Summit reached on 24th April 2022. 15 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 10820 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | HIML22104 |
| Peak ID | HIML |
| Year | 2022 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | NW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Nepal |
| Leaders | Romnath Gyawali |
| Sponsor | BMS 1st Batch (Nepal Mtn Academy) Himlung Expedition 2022 |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | - |
| Summit Date | 2022-04-24 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 0 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 4 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 6100m due to bad weather |
| High Point (m) | 6100 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 2 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 15 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 9 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC,C1(5470m),C2(24/04,6100m),xxx(6100m) |
| Route Notes | From NMA Facebook page: Overview of Himlung Himal Expedition (7126m) (as part of the BMS 8th Semester Field Research; 7000m mountain climbing) Manang, Nepal Nepal Mountain Academy under the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation, Government of Nepal Bachelor of Mountaineering (BMS) incorporates two giant climbs as part of the course structure, a 6000m peak and 7000m mountain! At the core, BMS aspires to furnish leaders of the Himalayas, thus the need of experiential mountaineering along with academic and research foundations. In this setup, the first 7000m expedition of the academy consisted of students of BMS 8th semester, technical and research instructors, and expedition organizer. The team beforehand the expedition had their individual research subjects and associated gears and equipment prepared for the field study. The team of 15 students, instructors, and organizer left Kathmandu on Chaitra 29, 2078 for a 24-days long expedition. The planned route and stays of the expedition to express in brief was: Kathmandu-Besisahar-Koto-Meta-Chyaku-Phu-Himlung BC-Camp1-Camp2-Summit*-BC-Meta-Koto-Besisahar-Kathmandu. Manang is a blessed geography of Nepal. Located in the rain shadow of Annapurna-Dhaulagiri massif, the land is completely different from that of the remaining Nepal. Manang is beautified by its peculiar gigantic rocks and gorges between them drained by roaring Himalayan rivers, while the highs are lush alpine meadows where blue sheep and yaks roam around. Manang stands atop its own cultural integrity, roots of age-old Himalayan settlements, and their cultural distinction are among the major attractions here. The trekking trail is beautified by deep and rich streams, bridges, vegetation and wildlife! Through the deep gorges, valleys and plateaus, our team trekked to the Himlung Himal Base Camp, mind steeled for the push of Himlung Himal, a 7000m giant and also popular expedition peak. In perspective, a 7000m mountain is something that the entire western hemisphere does not possess. The highest mountain of the west is Aconcagua (6961m). Thus climbing a 7000m peak in Nepal marks an altitude that is only attainable here and anywhere else. The days at basecamp were among the most productive ones. Since the commencement of BMS, technical skills such as use of ice axe, jumar, concept of fix lines and rope-ups, rope knots and safety systems were familiarized and the team had the time to re-sharpen them. Climbing a 7000m mountain requires a humongous amount of training, preparation and a mind of steel. Route assessment and preliminary studies were made to prepare for the assault. Beforehand, rotations were made to ensure better acclimatization and adaptation. Rotation to Camp 1 (5470m) and back to basecamp, a night at Camp 1 and rotation to Camp 2 (6100m) and finally, the summit push from Camp 2 was planned. Simultaneously, students exhibited a great vigor in conducting research studies. Altitude is a tricky place. Human metabolism functions low in high altitudes while the body struggles to cope up with deficient oxygen and conducting research studies at such altitude is already a mega challenge. Students managed to reach their concerned altitudes and research sites for data collection and are back with essential primary fieldwork, which the academy hopes to add mountain knowledge to existing national knowledge base. Safety is one of the pillars of mountaineering and an expedition is not considered successful unless everyone descends back safely. Eying on this, the academy had assigned Gelje Sherpa, an IFMGA Guide of highly decorated achievements as Everest summit 9 times with multiple 8000ers summit, and a medical doctor and adventurer, Dr. Behrouz Moghadashi from Iran who himself has been an avalanche survivor and emergency medicine expert working for the UN. Similarly, the organizer of the expedition Expedition Himalaya, had assigned professional Sherpa climbers and rescue logistics for guaranteed safety. The academy heartily thanks the professionals for their immense support. The team trained by all means for the final push. The day came when the team headed for Camp 2 to make the summit push. The plan was to make an early start from Camp 1, reach Camp 2 by late day, rest and recover energy and start the summit push at 10:00 pm. Unfortunately, contrary to the weather forecast, a whiteout took over with no signs of push. Considering the effort put through the expedition, the team stayed a night at 6000+ meters hoping to make the push the next night. The weather of a mountain is never ascertained, and to everyone's surprise, the weather next night also did not improve, thus the team was forced to stay another night at 6000+ meters. Human body is not made to live through multiple nights at 6000+ meters and thus considering the team's health, instructors decided to retreat, aborting the expedition's summit push. Many things were learnt as the mountain does not consider climbers' plans and ambitions, still one has to make their way and decide during the hard times. Himlung Himal expedition was the first giant academic expedition of the academy and the best part about it is the continuous learning through, the assurance of safety of every member of the expedition and ability of students in conducting their research studies in such harsh environment. The expedition was an overall success! The academy thanks everyone associated with this expedition. Special thanks go to the dedicated students, instructors, organizer, research facilitators, supervisors, TU and the Government of Nepal, Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Expedition Himalaya |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | False |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2463831 |
| Year | 2022 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | nw ridge |
Members
15 recorded members.
References
1 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| HIML22104 | - | - | https://www.facebook.com/nepalmountainacademy | - | - | - |