Himlung Himal | 2014 W Ridge from SW

A Italy expedition to Himlung Himal in 2014 via W Ridge from SW, led by Christian Denicolo. Summit reached on 26th October 2014. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8640
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID HIML14303
Peak ID HIML
Year 2014
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge from SW
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Christian Denicolo
Sponsor International Himlung Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Denmark, UK
Approach Dharapani->Phu
Basecamp Date 2014-10-18
Summit Date 2014-10-26
Summit Time 1330
Summit Days 8
Total Days 12
Termination Date 2014-10-30
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7126
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 1000
Total Members 5
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 4
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(18/10,4500m),C1(22/10,5100m),C2(23/10,5800m),C3(25/10,6100m),Smt(26/10)
Route Notes C1 on West Ridge C2 at top of icefall below West Ridge C3 just below ridge on side of a col. The team chose to climb Himlung from the southwest via a route they said had been established only three years earlier. They pitched their BC on 18 October at 4500m on the south side of the Pangi Glacier. (There was too much snow on the north side). They crossed the glacier to the south side of the West Ridge, a steep climb. On 22 October they made C1 on the West Ridge. The next day they placed C2 at the top of an icefall below the West Ridge, and C3 was made just below the West Ridge on the south side of a col. Finally on 26 October, the five members and their five Sherpas went for the top from C3 at 2:20 am. At 6300m Vardy turned back because he feared that his right foot, which had previously been frostbitten, was going to be affected again; he went back to C3 with one of the Sherpas, Bir Kazi, and next day descended to C1. The remaining four members and four Sherpas continued up. The leader, Christian Denicolo, was the first to reach the summit at 1:30 pm, with Dawa Gyalje Sherpa; the rest of the team got to the top at 2:30 pm. They were slow in their ascent, they explained, because it was a new route and there were no other climbers there, so they had to find the way and the do all the rope fixing themselves. The ridge was blue ice all the way; they had to fix 1000m on the ridge. (They did not have that much rope with them, so they fixed 600m and brought up 400m of rope they had fixed and reused it). From the top, they descended all the way to BC the same day; it was 8:00 pm when they reached BC. None of the climbers were injured, but Denicolo did fall into a crevasse while on his way to the summit. However, he was roped to another climber; he didn't fall far and was not injured. Oxygen was used by two members only. Niebur used it from 6500m to 6700m because he got tired on his way to the summit, and James Glazebrook used it for his last 15 minutes below the top. Sherpas: Ang Gele Bir Kazi Dakipa Dawa Gyalje Nima Gyalje
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Dreamers Destination Treks (Himal Exped pmt)
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2459376
Year 2014
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) w ridge from sw

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Christian Denicolo M 1968 Italy Leader Selva di Gardena, Bolzano, Italy Hotelier Details Other expeditions
Clare Louise Glazebrook F 1973 UK Climber Chesterfield, Derbyshire, England Sports therapist Details Other expeditions
James Duncan (Jamie) Glazebrook M 1973 UK Climber Chesterfield, Derbyshire, England Business advisor Details Other expeditions
Nikolaj Budolfsen Niebuhr M 1983 Denmark Climber Canazei, Italy Guide of mountain bike and skiing groups Details Other expeditions
Nigel John Vardy M 1969 UK Climber Belper, Derbyshire, England Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Dawa Gyalje (Dawa Gyalzen) Sherpa M 1979 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Angeli Sherpa M 1987 Nepal H-A Worker Janakpur, Gaurishankar-6, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Bir Kaji Tamang M 1978 Nepal H-A Worker Gorakhani-4, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Dakipa (Dawa Kipa) Sherpa M 1983 Nepal H-A Worker Kharikhola, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Nima Gyalzen Sherpa M 1985 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
HIML14303 - - https://christiandenicolo.wordpress.com - - -
HIML14303 - - http://www.nikoniebuhr.com/en/mountaineering/himlung-7126-m/ - - -