Himlung Himal | 2009 W Ridge

A Japan expedition to Himlung Himal in 2009 via W Ridge, led by Osamu Tanabe. Summit reached on 14th October 2009. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6660
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID HIML09306
Peak ID HIML
Year 2009
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Osamu Tanabe
Sponsor Shinshu University Alpine Club Peri Himal Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 26th,27th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Phu Khola->Phugaon, east to BC
Basecamp Date 2009-09-18
Summit Date 2009-10-14
Summit Time 1010
Summit Days 26
Total Days 44
Termination Date 2009-11-01
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7126
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 400
Total Members 8
Summit Members 6
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Nemjung (NEMJ-093-01)
Campsites BC(18/09,4800m),C1(26/09,5560m),C2(13/10,6250m),Smt(14-15/10)
Route Notes BC towards east end of Pangari Glacier C1 on moraine on north side of glacier C2 on West ridge. The original plan was for an ascent of Himlung via its West Ridge, descent to BC by the same ridge, then ascent of Nemjung's NW Face in alpine-style with no fixed camps or fixed ropes from the same BC, and finally, again from the same BC, an attempt on the South Face of Himjung and a traverse to Himlung via Himjung's North Ridge and descent via Himlung's original, West Ridge route. As planned, they first went to Himlung. They arrived at their BC on 18 September and made C1 on the 26th. Progress in early October was halted by three days of heavy snowfall on the 5th to the 7th that buried C1 but did not do any damage, as they found out when they dug it out. They had to wait for avalanching to stop before they could move up and pitch C2, which they did on the 13th. The West Ridge, which they followed to the summit, was fairly steep, up to 40 degrees, covered with snow, very little ice. They summited in two parties. The first one, Egawa, Oki, Takizawa and Jaya Prakash Rai (their cook and porter, who wanted to climb and was told he could do so) left C2 5:50 am on 14 October, were on the summit at 10:10 am, back in C1 at 4:20 pm and BC on the 15th. The second party, Mr and Mrs. Hanatani and Kadoya, left C2 on the 15th at 6:15 am, summited at 12:00 noon, and returned to C2 at 9:00 pm. The next day they were again slow in descending, and at 6:00 pm it was too late and they were too tired to go all the way to C1 at 5560m, so they pitched a tent at 6100m and spent the night there. They went down to BC on the 16th. After their climb was finished, Egawa and Takizawa left the team while the others shifted their attention to Nemjung. Fujimatsu reached 5600m on 30 September, retreated to BC and stayed there: the climb was too difficult for him. Hired: Jaya Prakash Rai, 28/3/74 (15/12/2030) according to citizenship certificate, but 28/3/77 (15/12/2033) according to Rai, Makalu village, Makalu X1 After having completed their climb of Himlung, on 19 October the team checked the west side of Himjung's South Face. They discovered that their proposed route from Nemjung to Himjung was too dangerous from rock fall. They were forced to abandon their idea of any traverse, and now concentrated on simply climbing Nemjung from their established BC. From their C2 at the bottom of the West Face at 6000m, they moved up the face just north of the West Ridge and pitched C3 on the ridge itself at 6840m on the 29th. From there on 30th October, Yasuhiro Hanatani, Kadoya, Oki and Tanabe set out for the top at 9:15 am. They were on the summit at 1:30 pm and down in C3 at 4:15 pm. They returned to BC on the 31st. The expedition's climbing was over.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Cosmo Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference True
Primary ID NEMJ09301
Checksum 2457533
Year 2009
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Shin Egawa M 1987 Japan Climber Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan University student Details Other expeditions
Taichi Fujimatsu M 1950 Japan Climber Ueda, Nagano, Japan Teacher Details Other expeditions
Hiroko Hanatani F 1982 Japan Climber Hokuto, Yamanashi, Japan Housewife Details Other expeditions
Yasuhiro Hanatani M 1976 Japan Climber Hokuto, Yamanashi, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Michihiro Kadoya M 1963 Japan Climber Sakai, Osaka, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Nobusuke (Bond) Oki M 1979 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Alpine photographer Details Other expeditions
Tokihiro Takizawa M 1961 Japan Climber Ueda, Nagano, Japan University professor in textiles Details Other expeditions
Osamu Tanabe M 1961 Japan Leader Nagoya, Aichi, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jaya Bahadur (Prakash) Rai M 1974 Nepal H-A Worker Makalu-6, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.