Himalchuli East | 1986 W Ridge-SW Ridge

A Poland expedition to Himalchuli East in 1986 via W Ridge-SW Ridge, led by Jozef Stepien. Summit reached on 29th December 1986. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 898
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID HIME86401
Peak ID HIME
Year 1986
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge-SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Jozef Stepien
Sponsor Himalaya Winter Expedition 1986-87 Himalchuli
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-12-13
Summit Date 1986-12-29
Summit Time -
Summit Days 16
Total Days 17
Termination Date 1986-12-30
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6200m because no one left to climb
High Point (m) 6200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(13/12,3900m),C1A(15/12,5000m),C1B(21/12,4800m),C2(27/12,5600m),xxx(29/12,6200m)
Route Notes BC west of Himalchuli NW Summit near source of Myagdi khola C1A on West Ridge C1B at 4800m below big wall well protected C2 on top of meeting of West and South Ridge to-from SW Ridge High point at plateau. Moved C1 to slightly lower site because of strong wind at first site; tried to move it on 18th Dec, but "broken" weather then and succeeded on 21st; 500m fixed rope from C1 to C2 because S side of the W Ridge was difficult. Had big Christmas at BC and then up again and made C2. On 29th put 150m fixed rope above C2 and reached 6200m on top of 1st serac barrier and slept in C2. 30th Dec planned to rest and make C3 on 31st but weather not good (wind and cold) on 30th and started down; past C1 when accident [fatal fall] occurred on W Ridge very sharp ridge but really easy terrain. Klincewicz and Panejko were only climbers feeling well and with him gone, no partner for Panejko to climb with since Barancewicz and Trzeciakowski not high climbers.
Accidents Klincewicz fell 800-1000m from 4700m in easy terrain, lost his balance, fell into big couloir, many bones broken (carried down 500m and doctor met him there but died about 2 pm); no other problems
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449185
Year 1986
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge-sw ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jacek Barancewicz M 1955 Poland Exp Doctor Jelenia Gora, Poland Physician Details Other expeditions
Tadeusz Brys M 1949 Poland Climber Opole, Poland Geographer Details Other expeditions
Jacek (Jerzy) Klincewicz M 1952 Poland Climber Wroclaw, Poland Physicist Details Other expeditions
Krzysztof Krolikowski M 1953 Poland Climber Lublin, Poland Electrician Details Other expeditions
Wieslaw Panejko M 1955 Poland Deputy Leader Wroclaw, Poland Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Jozef Stepien M 1953 Poland Leader Wroclaw, Poland Electronics engineer Details Other expeditions
Marek Trzeciakowski M 1945 Poland Climber Wroclaw, Poland Electronics engineer Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
HIME86401 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 61:249 (1987) -
HIME86401 MM - - - 116:9 (Jul 1987) -
HIME86401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198724901/Asia-Nepal-Himalchuli-Winter-Attempt-and-Tragedy - - -