Himalchuli East | 1986 S Ridge-SW Face

A Japan expedition to Himalchuli East in 1986 via S Ridge-SW Face, led by Sadao Okada. Summit reached on 26th October 1986. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 928
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID HIME86301
Peak ID HIME
Year 1986
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge-SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Sadao Okada
Sponsor Nihon University Himalchuli Expedition 1986
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 7th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-09-07
Summit Date 1986-10-26
Summit Time 1300
Summit Days 49
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7893
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/09,5200m),C1(15/09,5600m),C2(20/09,5970m),C3(25/09,6500m),C4(07/10,6900m),C5(13/10,7200m),Smt(26/10)
Route Notes BC at Dodi Khola southwest of mountain. More bad weather after 13th Oct. All route difficult: fixed 7000m total rope - mostly rock and snow. 1st summit attack on 26th Oct and Furno and Nima made route to top starting from C5 at 4:00 am while 2nd group left C5 6:00 am (2 started ahead of other 2 because too cold for 2nd pair to wait while first pair put in route up difficult rock face). Second pair even so went up more slowly because very tired. 1st pair returned to C4 at 3:30 pm while Imoto at 9:50 pm to C5. 25th Oct 6 members slept in C5 (Okada at BC) but on 26th only 3 were well enough to go up while other 3 descended to C3.
Accidents Nakamura fell from about 7500m while descending from summit (fell about 2000m), body not found (many crevasses); no other problems
Achievement -
Agency Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449121
Year 1986
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s ridge-sw face

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kiyoshi Furuno M 1961 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Office worker & trek leader for Japanese trekking company Details Other expeditions
Shigeki Imoto M 1963 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Graduated from Nihon University Details Other expeditions
Ichiro Ishikawa M 1962 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Geology student (Nihon University) Details Other expeditions
Noriyuki Muraguchi M 1956 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Hizuru Nakamura M 1955 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Staff member, Japan Sugar Refiner's Association Details Other expeditions
Sadao Okada M 1949 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Liquor shopkeeper Details Other expeditions
Hiroyuki Suzuki M 1956 Japan Climber Fujimomiya, Shizuoka, Japan Junior high school teacher Details Other expeditions
Nima Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
HIME86301 AAJ Okada, Sadao - - 61:247 (1987) -
HIME86301 MM - - - 113:8 (Jan 1987) -
HIME86301 IWA - - - :270 (1987) -
HIME86301 IWA - - - :68-69 (1987) -
HIME86301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198724703/Asia-Nepal-Himalchuli - - -