Himalchuli East | 1985 S Face-SW Ridge

A Japan expedition to Himalchuli East in 1985 via S Face-SW Ridge, led by Nobuyuki Takeda. Summit reached on 16th October 1985. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 229
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID HIME85301
Peak ID HIME
Year 1985
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face-SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Nobuyuki Takeda
Sponsor Yamagata Climbing Club Himalchuli Expedition 1985
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 6th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Bhote Odar->Dordi Khola
Basecamp Date 1985-08-30
Summit Date 1985-10-16
Summit Time 1100
Summit Days 47
Total Days 51
Termination Date 1985-10-20
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7893
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(30/08,4800m),C1(09/09,5700m),C2(15/09,6200m),C3(25/09,6700m),C4(14/10,7400m),Smt(16/10),Biv(16-17/10,7500m),Biv(16-18/10,7400m)
Route Notes BC east of ridge coming south from West Peak C1 at east side of South Ridge = South Face C2 at east side of South Ridge = South Face C3 on SW Ridge C4 at north side of West Ridge near its junction with SW Ridge and South Ridge. After C3, returned to BC for "holiday" and then when went back up to C1 and C2 very bad weather (much snow and much wind), so had spend 5 days in C2. Got to C3 13th Oct. On top 16th Oct at 11:00 am in clear weather that morning until just below summit. On top white-out and descent in "big trouble." Okamoto and Takeda 2-day bivouac at 7500m while others on 16th descending had 3-day bivouac at 7300m in traverse from C4. All safely below BC 22nd Oct. BC to C3 rock and snow C3 to summit was 4 km snow plateau of deep snow which took much energy. Technically not difficult.
Accidents Moti Lal bad frostbite and Takiguchi less frostbite during 3-day bivouac; Saito bad altitude sickness in C4
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448745
Year 1985
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s face-sw ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Moti Lal Gurung M 1950 Nepal H-A Worker Sedua, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Hideaki Okamoto M 1957 Japan Climber Nieza, Saitama, Japan Architect Details Other expeditions
Masayuki Saito M 1956 Japan Climber Kaminoyama, Yamagata, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Nobuyuki Takeda M 1955 Japan Leader Yamagata-shi, Yamagata, Japan Salesman, cement Details Other expeditions
Toshikazu Sugai M 1954 Japan Climber Yamagata-shi, Yamagata, Japan Printing company employee Details Other expeditions
Yaushiro Takiguchi M 1955 Japan Climber Yamagata-shi, Yamagata, Japan Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Yuko Yoshida F 1950 Japan Climber Yamanoba, Yamagata, Japan Alpinist Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
HIME85301 AAJ Takeda, Nobuyuki - - 60:241 (1986) -
HIME85301 MM - - - 108:11 (Mar 1986) -
HIME85301 IWA - - - :55-56 (1986) -
HIME85301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198624101/Asia-Nepal-Himalchuli - - -